Rioja: Classic vs Modern

Classic vs Modern vs Terroir was the theme of this Rioja tasting.
CVNE Imperial, Rioja Alta and Muga Prado Enea as Classic. Artadi, Roda and Torre Muga as Modern. Contino and Remelluri as Terroir.

• 1982 C.V.N.E. (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España) Rioja Imperial Gran Reserva 90 Points

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

  Aroma of wilted autumn flowers, dried roses, dried berries, a touch of barnyard, acidity can be felt already on the nose. With time the nose develops into a beautiful honey aromas and gets more balanced. Quite high acidity on the palate, mushrooms, medium light body. A good example of classic traditional Rioja.

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• 1982 Bodegas y Viñedos del Contino Rioja Contino Reserva 91 Points

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alavesa, Rioja

  Sharper, more intense nose than CVNE Imperial GR '82. Similar to Contino '81 - smoke, smoked meat, sweet cranberries. With time it beautifully developed into hot leather aromas, also honey, honeycomb, light pickle juice. A bit sweeter than Imperial, more berries, interesting note of tomato juice on the palate. Very long finish.

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• 1994 Bodegas Muga Rioja Torre Muga 88 Points

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

  Spicy nose, some slight barnyard. Nose doesn't last long, fades away with time. Palate of sweet cherries, plums, spices, may be some tomato leaves. Quite good.

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• 2001 La Rioja Alta Rioja Gran Reserva 904 94 Points

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

  Superb, just as before. Best of the both worlds (modern and classic).
  Rich, balanced, silky palate with vanilla, dill, pickle juice, cumin and hay nose.
  This was voted #1 by the group in the tasting.

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• 2005 La Granja Nuestra Señora de Remelluri Rioja Gran Reserva 89 Points

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alavesa, Rioja

  Intense, purple ruby red colour, some sediment.
  Intense nose, vanilla, rich, peppermint, fennel, blackberries, spices, cardamon. Quite edgy and pungent on the palate.

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• 2006 Bodegas Roda Rioja Roda I Reserva 92 Points

  Spain, La Rioja, Rioja

  Very rich and concentrated nose. Vanilla, tannin, dark berries, skim from jam, highly extracted. Aronia, dark cherries, some wood, hay. Palate surprisingly suave, even creamy, very good balance for such an extracted wine. A pleasant surprise given the nose of a potentially boring fruit bomb.

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• 2004 Bodegas Muga Rioja Gran Reserva Prado Enea 91 Points

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

  Timid nose, comparing it to Roda or Artadi. Very well balanced, silky, a bit sweet but dry, some classic pepper, blackberry jam, nicy. A good example of traditional Rioja. There must be a place for these wines.

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• 2006 Artadi Rioja Pagos Viejos 89 Points

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alavesa, Rioja

  Very open, fruity, strong black cherries, concentrated, tannic, some smoke and cumin. This was one of the best of modern Riojas. Really good quality and not without a sense of place.

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Group vote was as follows:
1. Rioja Alta GR 904 2001
2. Artadi
3. Torre Muga
4-5 Imperial and Contino

All wines showed really well on this night, no weak spots.