Old School Cali Cab Tasting

Colicchio & Sons, New York, NY
Tasted Friday, May 2, 2014 by Seth Rosenberg with 729 views

Introduction

This was Josh K's baby - I think springing from a discussion about how Cali cab winemaking had changed (for the worse IMO) from the old days. The core was Josh sharing a number of old bottles he had put together. The wines were prepared and poured by Ryan's expert hand at Colicchio & Sons. We decided to have the wines from oldest to youngest, which makes much more sense than the usual reverse.

Flight 1 (1 Note)

  • NV Jacques Selosse Initial 94 Points

    France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

    Off the list at Colicchio & Sons (Thanks Simon!). 2008 disgorgement. Young. Oxidative style. Nose of ginger, spice, pear, cider, lemon peel, chalky and somewhat creamy. Similar on the palate with prominent ginger, cider, lemon, creamy - the finish shows ginger and lemon and the acid builds to be powerful at the end. This is very assertive and brighter than other bottles, but isn't quite as deep - not as much creamy chalk milkshake that I love so much. Nose - 5.5/6, Palate - 5/6, Finish - 5-5.5/6, Je ne Sais Quoi - 1-1.5/2 = 16.5-17.5/20.

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Flight 2 (2 Notes)

Wow, what a flight. Two old wines - two stars. This really started the tasting off with a bang.

  • 1935 Simi Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma 94 Points

    USA, California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley

    Josh K's bottle. Decanted and left to open for about 2 hours. Soft plumy fruit, spice, fruitcake. Maybe a bit musty - tinny. Deep and gentle on the palate with purple fruit, citric acid and spice. Still a little tannin left. Cassis, juicy, cherry - dusty finish which is nice but drops off fairly quickly. Pretty damn amazing for a wine made during the great depression. Ryan said that it was closed up when the bottle was opened and needed time to loosen up - wow. Nose - 5.5/6, Palate - 5/6, Finish - 5-5.5/6, Je ne Sais Quoi - 1.5/2 = 17-17.5/20.

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  • 1960 Beaulieu Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Georges de Latour Private Reserve 95 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    Josh K's bottle. Soaring nose - could tell this was Napa Cab in a hurricane. Deep purple nose - plummy fruit, mint - herbal, sweet, soy, umami, violets. Toe curling nose. Cool dark fruits on the palate with more menthol, mint, very sweet and big, some stems. Good acid but very full and delicious. Spicy, dark cherry soy finish. This is a complete wine and showing majestically. WOTN for me. Nose - 5.5/6, Palate - 5.5-6/6, Finish - 5/6, Je ne Sais Quoi - 1.5/2 = 17.5-18/20.

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Flight 3 (3 Notes)

Flight 4 (3 Notes)

  • 1974 Beaulieu Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Georges de Latour Private Reserve

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    Exotic nose: sweet, marzipan, spice, soy, fruitcake, sweet strawberry fruit. Big and bold on the palate, sweet fruit - dripping. More soy and savory notes, umami. Still needs time. Soy and cherry on the finish. This was delicious and really solid. Just a step behind the 1960 which was on fire this evening. Nose - 5/6, Palate - 5.5/6, Finish - 5/6, Je ne Sais Quoi - 1.5/2 = 17/20.

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  • 1974 Robert Mondavi Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Flawed

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    Corked.

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  • 1974 Mayacamas Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Mountain 93 Points

    USA, California

    Ryan says BBQ - maple, smoke, saucy, meaty, soy, dark savory fruit - cassis, blackberry. This is rough and potent. Pollen - flowers. Huge. Savory as well on the palate, acid, meaty - very soy. Not much fruit. Sauvage and animal fur at the end. Stinky. This is very different in style than the other wines of the night - really chunky and brutish, but delicious in its own way. Last of my 375mls - a worthwhile risk taken. Nose - 5.5/6, Palate - 5/6, Finish - 4.5/6, Je ne Sais Quoi - 1.5/2 = 16.5/20.

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Flight 5 (2 Notes)

  • 1987 Dunn Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain 95 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley, Howell Mountain

    My bottle. Very savory nose - soy, smoked meat, umami, dark cherry, stemmy, herbal, touch of eucalyptus. Great on the palate - huge intensity and acid, sweet deep plummy fruit, smooth tannins. This is quite deep and sappy. Mostly mature - this Dunn seems downright friendly and ready to drink. Delicious. Runner up for WOTN for me. Nose - 5/6, Palate - 5.5/6, Finish - 5.5/6, Je ne Sais Quoi - 1.5/2 = 17.5/20.

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  • 1991 Philip Togni Cabernet Sauvignon

    USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District

    My bottle (well, actually my Dad's). This was a real disappointment after the other, older wines. Also nothing like the previous bottles I have had, unless the previous flights just primed my palate in a particular way. This is deep but very vegetal and green. Really stemmy with green pepper. Bigger on the palate than other wines, with some heat, and stemmy.

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Flight 6 (3 Notes)

Closing

A wonderful tasting - showing the spectacular potential and ability to age of these wines. They were made much more simply and roughly, and, IMO, are vastly superior to the overextracted muck that sell for hundreds of dollars a bottle these days. What really struck me is how these older cabs were acid-based wines, with much lower alcohol and extraction. I wonder how they tasted when young - but I can tell you that they were delicious now.

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