A Few Lafon Meursaults and Volnays

The 2002 Clos de la Barre and Volnay AC were generous additions to the "official" line up and provided a very useful perspective.

• 2009 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

  Light color. The richness and amplitude you expect from the vintage (albeit not necessarily in a mere village wine), but unexpected acidity and structure.

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• 2007 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

  Medium yellow. Ironically, this was somehow more impressive than the Clos de la Barre of the same vintage. Lighter than the 2009 but lactic and creamy, really without much trace of wood. This clearly outperformed.

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• 2008 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault Clos de la Barre

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

  Light yellow. Medium weight. Classic young Meursault with a definite wood imprint (but not overdone) and wonderful spiciness. Lots of acidity and minerality here.

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• 2007 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault Clos de la Barre

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

  Same light color as the 2008. Much less interest and concentration on the palate, though. Fairly neutral flavors, more marked by wood, not as lively. As I said in another note, this was outpaced by the 2007 village wine.

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• 2002 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault Clos de la Barre

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

  Medium yellow. Rich, lush Grand Cru feel and concentration. Ripe fruit leaning toward tropical but reined in by well etched acidity. Very creamy and long. Bravo for a great lieux dit performance. Just the barest hint of hazelnut, but no oxidation whatsoever.

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• 2009 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Volnay

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay

  Deep ruby. Relatively rich cherry fruit. Not over the top but more 2009 than Volnay; this became more clear tasting through the 2 older vintages.

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• 2007 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Volnay

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay

  Light ruby. Equal mix of faded red fruit and soil aromatics with a dash of florality. Delicate and crisp. Much more Volnay character than the 2009 and a very nice drink right now. Not as exciting or deep as the Santenots du Milieu we recently had, but right where it should be.

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• 2002 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Volnay

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay

  Light red with browning rim. Slightly more substantial than the 2007, but it continues the trajectory away from fruit toward the more earthy, sous bois side of things. Strong acidity that is not out of place. This is fully mature.

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The youngest and oldest Clos de la Barre were particularly striking, matching or exceeding the quality of Premier Crus from other Meursault producers.