NK Arrivederla Liz Nicholson

Liz Nicholson was leaving her position as Wine Director at Maialino to take a position at Marea. She had been good to our group on several occasions, so Tom decided we should have a dinner in her honor on her last day at Maialino. The food at Maialino is superb and matches very well with mature Nebbiolo, so any excuse works for me! This is a special restaurant, especially for an Italian wine dinner.

• 2001 Prager Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Weissenkirchener Zwerithaler 94 Points

  Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau

  Golden yellow. Crisp buttery nose. Stunning in the mouth. Delicious!

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• 2001 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 94 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  Smokey, slatey nose. Sweet for a Kab. Tasty with great length.

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• 1985 Bollinger Champagne R.D. Extra Brut 95 Points

  France, Champagne

  [Disgorged in fall 2002.] Vanilla-lemon nose. Soft, delicate, delicious. Always one of my favorite Champagnes.

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• 2001 Dönnhoff Norheimer Kirschheck Riesling Spätlese

  Germany, Nahe

  Seems too sweet coming after the Champagne. Not rated.

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• 1964 Mastroberardino Taurasi Flawed

  Italy, Campania, Taurasi DOCG

  Shot. Completely dead.

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• 1964 Lungarotti Torgiano Rubesco Riserva Vigna Monticchio 95 Points

  Italy, Umbria, Torgiano

  [Opened at noon.] Smokey, earthy red fruit and tar nose. Long, elegant and pure. Just a stunning wine, still in terrific shape.

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• 1985 Mastroberardino Taurasi Riserva 94 Points

  Italy, Campania, Taurasi DOCG

  [Opened at noon.] Dark inky color. Very young. Real depth here, but needs 10 years.

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• 1978 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà 92 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  [Opened at noon.] Big smokey dried cherry nose. Mature elegant but still quite rich. I have had much better bottles of this wine.

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• 1978 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Asili 94 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  [Double decanted at 4pm.] Big smokey red fruit nose. Silky rich complex. In better shape than the 1978 Rabaja.

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• 1978 Cappellano Barolo 96 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  [Opened at noon.] Stunning nose of earth and cherries. Thick, balanced, a terrific Barolo. Just outstanding. Probably the best bottle I have had of this wine.

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• 1985 Marcarini Barolo Brunate 93 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  [Opened at noon.] Beautiful juicy fruit. Elegant. In excellent condition. Lovely.

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• 1990 Duca di Salaparuta Sicilia Duca Enrico 94 Points

  Italy, Sicily, Sicilia

  [Pop and pour.] Earthy black fruit nose. Juicy, ripe, tasty black berries and licorice. Perhaps the biggest surprise of the night. Very impressive, serious wine.

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• 1988 Salvatore Molettieri Taurasi Riserva Cinque Querce 92 Points

  Italy, Campania, Taurasi DOCG

  [Opened at noon.] Slightly vegetal red fruit nose. Elegant, tarry, vibrant.

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• 1989 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia 97 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  [Decanted at 8pm.] Nose is earthy and mature but the palate is youthful. This is a brilliant young wine. A bottle like this might be 100 points in 10 more years, it is that good. Staggering. 97-?? points.

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• 1988 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Riserva Granbussia 94 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  [Pop and pour.] Intense and shockingly fruity for a 1988. Big and delicious. One of the wines of the vintage.

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• 1990 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Riserva Granbussia Flawed

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  [Decanted at 8pm.] Sour. Off. Not sure what's wrong, but clearly a bad bottle.

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• 1985 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo 95 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  [Decanted at 8pm.] Gorgeous spiced cherry nose. Long complex elegant cherries and spice in the mouth. Terrific.

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• 1985 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino 97 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  [Opened at noon.] Huge and somewhat monolithic. Needs a load of time. Should be great after 2030. Probably should have been opened for 24 hours, not just 9 or 10.

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• 1989 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Monprivato 98 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  [Opened at noon.] OMG! After all these great wines, this is the WOTN. An amazing bottle of Barolo. Just incredible harmony and length. A wine that could bring tears to your eyes like a great work of art.

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• 1989 Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric dël Fiasc 93 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  [Opened at noon.] Nicely structured. Well made. Hard to judge after the incredible 89 Monprivato. I will say it shows very little sign of new oak at this point. It would be very enjoyable to have with dinner on its own.

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• 2001 Von Schubert Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Auslese Nr. 27 94 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  Faint yellow color, almost clear. Stunning nose of sweet apple, pear and slate. Harmonious and balanced. A very tasty wine.

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Another great evening of great friends, wine and food!