St Jacques Burgundy Offline

UK Wine Pages off-line held in Dunhill Room, on the top floor of the above venue. Ten of us sat at a large rectangular table with, somewhat mysteriously, a large silver model of an aeroplane as the centre-piece. 2 glasses of champagne served on arrival - Tarlant 1996 and a Gosset Grande reserve NV (no notes taken).

Served just before the starter (Scallops and roast pork belly with lentil and hazelnut vinaigrette), which I thought proved a good match and brought out the wines well.

• 2000 Frederic Esmonin Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Estournelles-St.-Jacques

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Pleasant, sweetish cherry fruit, nice acidity, some slightly gamey notes. Lacks a little concentration in comparison to the rest of the flight but a good, uncomplicated mature red burgundy.

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• 2000 Domaine Maume Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St. Jacques

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Wow, strong animal, farmyardy nose, some rubbery type notes too - but just stays the right side of interesting. Similar on palate, some fine tannins evident. Slowly evolved and settled into something more fruity and conventional.

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• 2000 Bernard Dugat-Py Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St. Jacques

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Pleasant, if slightly closed sweet red fruits on nose. Some darker fruit notes, nice purity here. Nice savouriness on palate, well judged oak, slightly closed and a little tannic on finish. Very good indeed, this grew on me with time in galss. Plenty of scope for improvement.

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• 2000 Dominique Laurent Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St. Jacques Flawed

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Very badly corked.

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• 2000 Dominique Laurent Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Lots of smoky oak and ripe strawberry red fruits on the nose. Initially flattering, but oak a little over-powering, at least at the moment. Very soft palate.

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Served with main course of Roast chicken with cep persillade and gratin dauphinois.

• 1993 Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St. Jacques

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Open, smoky nose with attractive plum and cherry fruit. Attractively light on the palate, cherries and strawberries, well integrated smoky oak - turning a touch gamey, lovely thrilling, balancing acidity carries through to a good length slightly savoury finish. Excellent - my WOTN on current showing.

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• 1991 Domaine Bartet Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Pale/medium garnet, lots of sediment. Quite attractive nose, caramel and fruit cake, but slightly oxidised and tired. Lacks freshness on the palate too, short finish, still drinkable but for me past it's best.

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• 1993 Domaine Bartet Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Flawed

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Corked

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• 1996 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Lovely, complex nose. Smoke, red fruits, some gamey notes and caramel. Lovely purity to this. Actaully a little closed on the palate, noticeable, but fine tannins, lovely purity again with sweet red fruits and a touch of caramel, long finish with lovely balancing acidity. Excellent.

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Served with cheese (Brebis, Reblochon and Comtes served with fig cakes and chutney)

• 2002 Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St. Jacques Domaine Louis Jadot

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Almost totally shut down, some youthful red cherry fruit. The material seems to be in place but also young, closed and tannic on the palate. Useful if only as a reminder of what a waste it is to drink a wine like this so young.

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• 2001 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Vieille Vigne

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  This was actually quite open, at least in comparison to the previous wine. Signature Fourrier sweet strawberry fruit on nose, lovely purity, some oak but clearly well judged. Reasonably well concentrated palate but elegant too, surprisingly accessible tannins and good acidity, good length finish. Lovely, pushed the Rousseau 2001 very close for the wine I would like most in my cellar, but fell down a little in comparison in terms of volume and structure.

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• 2001 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Unsurprisingly a little closed on the nose, sweet strawberry fruit. Lovely fruit on the palate too, ripe tannins, lovely acidity, beautifully balanced with plenty of fruit and a lovely, remarkably persistent caramelly finish. Outstanding, for the long haul.

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• 1999 Sylvie Esmonin (Michel et Fille) Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Closed nose, some darker cherry fruit, some green notes. Bitter and tannic on the palate, short, tannic finish. Not convinced this has the material or balance to improve, others disagreed.

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• 1999 Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Domaine Louis Jadot

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Still closed on the nose, but attractive savoury red berry fruit on the palate, very good structure and length, this certainly has the potential but will be lying my other bottle down for at least 5 years.

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• 1986 Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

  Quite youthful, floral nose. Elegant, quite light, lightly honeyed and candied, nice acidity and floral notes on a good length finish. Very good indeed.

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