2005 Burgundy

Buttermilk muffins with smoked eel and scrambled egg

• NV Gaston Chiquet Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs d'Aÿ 88 Points

  France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

  Light and fresh on the nose, very finely chalky mineral. Similar on attack. Mineral with a degree of roundness through the mid palate. The faintest hint of honey on the finish. Feels reasonably high dosage. Relatively straightforward, but a pleasant pick-me-up. ***

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Roast partridge with pearl barley, swede, white truffle and chestnuts

• 2005 Alain Hudelot-Noëllat Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

  Dense, dark ruby. Relatively dense, but subdued on the nose initially with a touch of dustiness. A sense of savouriness too, albeit in a herby way. Very 04 on the nose. Coal tar, though after a couple of hours this foes lighten to pine sap. Pine bubble bath — Badedas. Dark fruited and a little dry on the palate. No. Either an extremely awkward phase or (hopefully) a flawed bottle. NR

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• 2005 Joseph Drouhin Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Feusselottes 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

  Dense, dark ruby. A brighter nose with a touch of caramel wafer. Dark red fruit. Slightly furry tannins still though these seem to soften and melt in the mouth with air. Some depth to the fruit, but a lightness and vibrancy too. Nicely fragrant. Young but harmonious. Sweetens with air and puts on a little weight. ****

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Fallow deer ragout with spätzle, Lardo di colonnata, Parmesan and olive oil

• 2005 Joseph Drouhin Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Clos Sorbé 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis 1er Cru

  Dark, dense ruby. Nicely fragrant nose. Quite dark fruited and nicely spicy. Jammier on the nose. Red-fruited palate. Good acidity. Lots of grip in a light-handed way. A pleasing structure. Lightens up wi air too to show a nice minerality. ***1/2

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• 2005 Domaine Camus-Bruchon & Fils Beaune 1er Cru Clos du Roi 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru

  Slightly darker. Expressive nose. Dark red fruit, spice, maybe a hint of warm saddle. Very rounded, sweet fruit at the core with almost a cassis element. Warm spice on the nose. Round and harmonious. Generous even. ****

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• 2005 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Chaignots 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

  Darker again. Dark fruited but with a freshness. Dense, dark and quite dry on the finish. The first bruiser of the night. Very dense on the nose. **(**)

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Leg and saddle of Pyrenean lamb with creamed potato, braised celery and Burgundian truffle

Epoisses

• 2005 Domaine des Varoilles Charmes-Chambertin 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

  Nicely fragrant. Dark red fruit with a hint of sweetness. Very fragrant. A slightly high tones freshness. Lovely. Complexity and interest.****

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• 2005 Bruno Desaunay-Bissey Grands-Echezeaux Vieilles Vignes 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru

  Dark fruited. Nose alternates between mute, sweet fruited and savoury. Settles down nicely to a dark core of red fruit. A little lighter and more red-fruited than the Echezeaux alongside. Starts to dry a little on the finish. Fairly solid but perhaps lacking flair. ***(*)

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• 2005 Bruno Desaunay-Bissey Echezeaux Vieilles Vignes 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru

  Another nicely dense, dark red-fruited nose. Darker and more black fruited on the palate cf the GE. Maybe a little drier too. With time in glass this seems to lighten and the GE gets a little darker. Unsurprisingly, very similar. ***(*)

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• 2005 Paul Pernot et ses Fils Beaune 1er Cru Les Reversées 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru

  Dark fruited. Again, quite spicy floral on the nose. Very fragrant in a slightly funky way. Interesting. I wouldn't pick this as Beaune. ***

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Banana soufflé with passion fruit ice cream

• 2005 Dr. F. Weins-Prüm Erdener Prälat Riesling Auslese 93 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  Mid to full straw. Quite dense and petrolly on the nose. Sweet. Lots of sweetness upfront, a pause, and then good acidity on the slightly broad finish. Just starting. To show some development. Lots of wine here. ****

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An interesting tasting. No obvious pattern apart from maybe the fine quality of the tannins. Several wines seemed to have a slightly herbal edge. Most we're more open than I'd expected. Trompette on great form. Thanks to all, and especially F for cat-herding.