Christmas Day 2014

My place, parramatta, sydney
Tasted Thursday, December 25, 2014 by chatters with 313 views

Introduction

Christmas day and my first Christmas with the Coravin meant that I could go moderately mad with my selection.

Flight 1 - First course: Roast Pork belly with a fennel, apple and thyme sauce (4 Notes)

The 1992 Vat 1 not only was wine of the bracket but positively shone with the food. The Chateau Pontac Monplasir was an honourable second.

  • 1991 Château Pontac Monplaisir Blanc

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    From Coravin. Aromas of maderized and muted oranges, oxidation, honey and kumquat, cream, slight medicinal notes. On the palate it's a bit old, with some volatile acidity, oxidation and maderized notes accompanying honey and cream. Dead from a white sem/sav bordeaux blend perspective I suppose but I still find it drinkable and interesting if not completely enjoyable.

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  • 1992 Tyrrell's Sémillon Vat 1

    Australia, New South Wales, Hunter Valley

    From Coravin. Medium plus intensity aromas of honey, toast, butter, slight apple and even apricot and spice. Superb nose. More muted on the palate but with similar flavours as the aromas on the nose. very good indeed and in excellent condition.

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  • 1996 Glenguin Sémillon

    Australia, New South Wales, Hunter Valley

    From Coravin. Cork was a bit of a mess - it looked like it has leaked previously - and so it was on the nose and palate. Not completely gone but notes of damp cellar as well as oxidation accompany honey and cream. Bone dry. Short.

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  • 1996 Tyrrell's Sémillon Vat 1

    Australia, New South Wales, Hunter Valley

    From Coravin. Slight citrus, honey, quite muted, and slight volatile notes. In the mouth the wine is quite sour but with honey notes. I suspect it is past its best and get's more vegetal with time. Not sure what to do with this one.

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Flight 2 - Second Course: Roast Butternut Squash soup (2 Notes)

Enlivined by using lashings of cream and a brown rather than white chicken stock. Both of the rieslings, though inherently different in structure, worked well with this dish.

Flight 3 - Third Course: Osso Buco, Paris Mash and Peas (2 Notes)

Nothing says Christmas like..err...osso buco...umm. Well, no competition here as the Cornas was severely, and depressingly, corked. The St. Joseph stood it's ground and proved a solid, if a little uninspiring, accompaniment.

  • 1999 Tardieu-Laurent Cornas Vieilles Vignes Flawed

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas

    Terrible cork taint ruins what I can just about perceive is a brooding beautiful beast underneath. Very sad.

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  • 1998 Tardieu-Laurent St. Joseph Vieilles Vignes Les Roches

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph

    From Coravin. Medium plus intensity aromas of smoked bacon, meat, black over green peppercorns, leather, spice and Danish liquorice. On the palate the wine is dense and brooding, savoury and juicy with drying but fine textured tannins. Less about fruit flavours and more about structure and texture at this stage. Very nice, very moreish but not going to improve from here.

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Flight 4 - Fourth Course: Fruit cake and Cheddar (1 Note)

I retired to the comfy seat to have this with the Port. Glorious.

  • 1980 Croft Porto Vintage Quinta da Roêda

    Portugal, Douro, Porto

    Almost translucent garnet...Figs and raisins, then coffee and maraschino cherry with sweet spice on the nose...with time some leathery notes as well. Juicy and spicy on the palate with alcohol heat...fig jam, raisins, coffee and nutty notes. Very long. Rather splendid. Glorious in fact. The rest is in decanter under argon and will be consumed between now and NYD, I'll be interested to see how it holds up.

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Closing

A bit hit and miss...the semillons, which I'd hoped would shine, were, with the exception of the Tyrrell's Vat 1 1992, all a bit out of condition. The two rieslings were pleasant but the Cornas was completely dead - fortunately the St. Joseph came to the party. At least the Port shone through at the end.

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