PHMG WAG Blind Pairs: Old World vs. New

I went a bit overboard for this event with more older wines than usual for this group (and they paid for it). The reds were double decanted at least 5 hours ahead and tasted out of Reidel gourmet glasses side by side.

served with duck fat fries and fresh cut pineapple.

• 2002 Argyle Extended Tirage Brut 93 Points

  USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley

  So we start w/a New Worlder that is just drinking great. Apple pie, citrus, pear, a little reflection of the fresh pineapple we had with it, and the yeasty toast on the back. Crisp elegant and deep. Wow!

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and a homemade Copper River salmon spread

• 2009 Louis Latour Beaune 1er Cru Vignes Franches 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru

  A little tough to start, tannins and a spice wall finally give way to black cherries, strawberry, minerals, and oak. Nice texture and length, 89 on day 1. Ungassed overnight it was better! More integrated, smooth, and pleasant. Wait a year.

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• 2009 Bergström Pinot Noir de Lancellotti 93 Points

  USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Chehalem Mountains

  A clear winner in this pairing, the layers of fruit and baking spices that just spread out over palate. Earth, stone, and a little forest floor show up late to the party in your mouth. The structure is there but unobtrusive. Not an elegant style, but neither am I.

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paired with some Iberico pork loin slices

• 2005 Abacela Paramour - Estate Grown 92 Points

  USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Umpqua Valley

  Might as well copy my note from 3/12: "Black cherry, some raspberry, leather, tar, and tannins and then some more tannins! It would still be fun to have one in 2015." The tannins have mellowed a bit but still a big wine. Hard to decide which was which in this flight. No drop off on day 2.

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• 2005 Dominio Pingus Ribera del Duero Flor de Pingus 94 Points

  Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero

  This was the crowd favorite tempranillo in this pair. Very rich black fruit, stone, leather, anise, a touch of mocha, and a great mouthfeel. Long and held up nicely overnight.

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with lamb sliders

• 2003 Château Branaire-Ducru 93 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

  Truly classic Bordeaux with cassis, wet stone, mocha, and cigar box sitting on some dusty tannins. Ripe AND grippy! Fun! No drop on day 2.

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• 2004 Viader 94 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Just great out of a magnum. Garnet rim, aged Cab / Franc nose with a floral note hanging over the plum, berries, mocha, and herbs. Very silky and long. I had a 1/2 glass before the tasting so I knew which was which in the blind pair -- cheater! 93 on day 2. On plateau, now-2019 in this format.

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• 2010 Cayuse Syrah Cailloux Vineyard 95 Points

  USA, Washington, Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley

  Bombs away! Blue and black fruit with licorice, spice, tar, grilled meat, and leather. Maybe controversial but not here, love it, or leave it (for me). Crowd easily guessed vs. the Cornas. 94 on day 2. Now-2020.

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• 2010 Domaine Auguste Clape Cornas 94 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas

  This is still a brute from the appellation. Purple black color gives some clue to the dark extracted fruit and youthful tannins. Lots of savory things accompany the fruit: meat/bacon, herbs, pepper, wet stone, flowers, and smoke that go on and on. But it needs time and score will go up: 2018-2030. In this pairing the fruit forward Cayuse was the crowd pleaser.

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with a minimally sweet poppy seed cake

• 1989 Domaine des Baumard Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru 94 Points

  France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru

  What a nice end to the Old vs. New tasting, with an "Old Old!" Liquid gold pouring out of the bottle with an immediate nose. Pear, apricot, honeyed tropical fruit, with minerals, almonds, and flowers on the back with a really nice bite of acid. Didn't fall off sitting in an open glass in the fridge overnight.

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No big surprises, just lots of "ahhhs!" Then to the Wizard of Oz the next day with the symphony playing the soundtrack! Nice weekend!