Bordeaux in Bern

Lately I mostly only have the occasion to drink US or Swiss wines, so it was a real treat to team up with some other collectors to assemble a heavenly lineup of Bordeaux. The food was exceptionally inspired and paired perfectly with the wines.

• 2012 Renard Chasselas Grand Cru

  Switzerland, Vaud, Lavaux, Dézaley

  Exceptionally dry and savory. A deeply concentrated Chasselas.

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Pan roasted sea bass. Celery root puree and Beurre Rouge.

• 1989 Château Angélus

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

  I was worried about this one when I opened it, as there was a little bit of wine across the top of a fairly stained cork. Maybe there was a touch of oxidation as well, but I might have imagined it. This wine went from strength to strength, roasted and powerful, faintly smoky with a bit of melted roofing tar. This is an exceptionally ripe and sumptuous example of Angélus.

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• 1995 Château Angélus

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

  Mmm, I love the aromatics here. Spicy and leafy with a hint of mint. The palate is austere in comparison to the 1989, but it shows beautiful notes of mineral and cherry. Aromatically this is wide open, but the palate still seems a bit closed. No hurry on this time, as I think another 5-10 years is required before this really opens up.

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• 1990 Château Cheval Blanc

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

  Caramel, brown sugar and shiitake mushroom. This was certainly quite enjoyable, but given prior examples and the overall context of the tasting, this was ultimately a bit disappointing.

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Gnocchi Parisienne. Morels, Fava Beans and Peas.

• 1990 Château Haut-Brion

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  Mmm, my favorite wine of the tasting. Classically roasted, ripe and smokey, earthy with a hint of truffle. This is a wine of utter pleasure, and it was firing on all cylinders.

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• 1988 Château Lafite Rothschild

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  Incredibly intellectual. Mineral, mint and tobacco, a stunning Pauillac nose. Really nice spine to this, leafy and minty. It was actually a perfect counterpoint to a far more voluptuous 1990 Haut-Brion. As as always the case with Lafite, you had to "work for it" a bit, and this was showing beautifully.

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Roasted Beef Rib Eye. Grilled green asparagus. Crispy potatoes. Red wine reduction.

• 1985 Château Léoville Las Cases

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

  Very mineral and iron on first impression. With some swirling you get the textbook lead pencil aromas, tobacco, mineral, graphite. This is pretty much on point. Perhaps it is not the best 1985 LLC that I have enjoyed, but it was awfully powerful and pleasurable in that brawny and brooding style of Las Cases.

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• 1990 Château Léoville Poyferré

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

  Horsey and ripe, this has lots of beef blood and sanguine notes, followed by sweet cherry and tobacco. Really ripe and savory on the nose and palate. This didn't move the earth to the extent that 1990 Poyferré can in my experience, maybe a bit too bretty, but it was still quite delicious.

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Apple Tartlet and Vanilla Ice Cream.

• 1988 Château d'Yquem

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

  Heavenly as always. Deep color. Mouthwatering acidity. Apple cider, honey, tangerine, tropical fruit. I dare say this might have benefited from significant decanting. It was not as forthcoming as we hoped for. It was certainly a rather awesome wine but not the "religious experience" that one hopes for with a great Yquem.

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A wonderful evening!