Yet Another 60th Birthday Dinner (The Hills of Northern California): Half bottle. Light golden color. Soaring nose of utter refinement and complexity-honeyed, high tones, orange, apricot, and lord knows what else. Unbelievably fresh fruit, perfect weight, poise, balance, and length. If I seem at a loss to better describe individual components, it is only because everything is so beautifully tied together. Hardly the biggest, sweetest, or most concentrated example of Yquem, but absolutely stunning and the epitome of elegance. I'd imagine that from larger formats, it could easily remain at this lofty level for another 20 years. While I tend to prefer stickies from other regions, the acidity, (relative) lightness, and lift are tremendously inspiring here.
Bordeaux in Bern (Bern, Switzerland): Heavenly as always. Deep color. Mouthwatering acidity. Apple cider, honey, tangerine, tropical fruit. I dare say this might have benefited from significant decanting. It was not as forthcoming as we hoped for. It was certainly a rather awesome wine but not the "religious experience" that one hopes for with a great Yquem.
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(Chateau d'Yquem Sauternes) A great Sauternes vintage I think. Another rich and deeply coloured wine, and there is no less impact on the nose, which shows a great, intense, concentrated pile of sweet fruit. On the palate, plenty of flesh, plenty of texture, this is a wine absolutely loaded with character but also showing great freshness and style. There is fabulous depth here, and this wine although divine in its composition now, another fine balance of rich sweetness and acidity, it has a huge amount of potential for the future. Truly remarkable. I find this much more impressive than my previous tasting in November 2004.
(Chateau d'Yquem Sauternes) Dry summer, harvest from September 25th. Good botrytis. Six tries. A rich golden wine. Good character on the nose. Quince and toasty lemon curd botrytis. Dense, complex, although also marred by a little volatile acidity. A rich, oily, massive palate. A spicy grip with some tannin apparent, and a silky texture. This is a wine still on the way up, with plenty to offer yet, but you have to hope the VA doesn't become a real problem. Needs 5-10 years.
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