Mike G and Berto visit Cleveland (Italian wines)+
Willoughby, Ohio
Tasted Sunday, October 4, 2015 by Loren Sonkin with 540 views
Introduction
Mike Grammer let me know he was coming into town to visit his close childhood friend, but he would have some time for an offline. He let Berto D. know who came in for the dinner as well. The call went out and 13 of us descended on a wine friendly Italian place. After saying our initial hellos, we all sat down to a long meal of good wine, good food and great conversations. As for the wines, they were mostly from Tuscany and Piemonte, but a few other were sneaked in. ;-)
Flight 1 (17 Notes)
Closing
Its was great to see everyone. Jane and I had a great time! We will do it again (I hope).
2012 Cantina Terlan Chardonnay Terlano Kreuth 88 Points
Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige, Terlano
I have gone thru a bunch of these and this was my last bottle. Bought for under $20, this makes a great starter at tastings when the featured wines are red. My scores have ranged from 88 to 92, so there does seem to be some bottle variation (along with my palate). This bottle is sound, but the wine does seem to be getting to the end of the line or at least on its way down. Just got an offer for more at $16, but I will pass. There is still some fruit, mostly apple, on the nose but the oak has overtaken it. There a nice texture left on the palate, but the fruit is more genric at this point. It is more refreshing than interesting. That said, it worked nicely to set the tone. It is more than just a quaffer still and did show a bit better with food.
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2010 Castello Vicchiomaggio Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna La Prima 89 Points
Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
I had hoped for more from this, but it was still very good. Perhaps some air would have helped more as I got one of the first pours. I meant to try and revisit it, but forgot about it along the way. Its got a very tight nose. Not giving off much. With some vigorous swirling, some black cherries emerge. On the palate, there are a lot of black cherries and a lovely texture. Then it finishes a little bitter and finally, a wave of alcohol/heat. I do air sorts a lot of this out though and it could be a point or two better.
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2000 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Riserva Granbussia 93 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
A wine I have had a few times before. It is outstanding, but I always hope for more. In some vintages, this wine hits the higher plateau but in this one, it seems to settle for merely outstanding. Guess I am greedy. On pouring it has this quality that there is something hiding in its depth. So, I left some in a glass for an hour and returned. Pretty much the same, no growth and no deterioration. In any event, this was outstanding. It seems to be at peak. No hurry, I am sure it has a decade or two left, but its not getting any better IMO. Ruby in color. The nose has cherries, dried cherries and just a touch of tar. On the palate, there is a nice complexity here. Cherries layered with slight forest floor notes. Some anise. Worked great with some truffle pasta. This was my last bottle, but I would be very curious to revisit in ten years.
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2004 Isole e Olena Cepparello Toscana IGT 95 Points
Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
I will state flat out, that I seemed to like this more than anyone else at the table. Stunning wine to me. It would show better alone than in this setting. It is drinking like in that same vein as a mature Rioja or Bordeuax IMO. I knew those (like my wife) who like big, young wines would not be as much of a fan though. Great nose. Cherries, tobacco, licorice, spice and cigar box on the nose. Complex and enticing. That palate is seamless with cherries, dried cherries and tea leaves all intermingled. Great balance. Wonderful with food. Long finish. I was a bit dumbfounded that no one else seemed to be commenting so I revisited and it was just as good. I did a quick check and noticed that AG scored this 95 in 07 and 12, but IWC scored it 89 in 07. Clearly a divisive sort of wine and a great example that one's own palate is what matters.
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2004 La Rasina Brunello di Montalcino 91 Points
Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
This is really in a great place right now. Perhaps not as long lived as some Brunellos, this is at peak now. The nose is open with great cherries, dust, and forest floor notes. There is also this mocha quality that presumably are remnants from what was at one time a modern, oaked BdM. I enjoyed it. On the palate, medium bodied. Layers of dried and fresh cherries with earthy/wet forest. Not a ton of acidity, but enough to carry the food. Nice finish. IIRC, this was available for around $30 shortly after release and that was a great value.
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2006 Prunotto Barbaresco 90 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
This was one of those wines that over delivered on my expectations. Maybe I gave it the benefit of the doubt in scoring, but why not. First, my wife really liked it, and second, it gave everything one could expect. The nose is pretty classic with cherries, dried cherries, slight roses and even a whiff of tar. Slight tannins. Medium bodied. On the the palate, there is nice juicy cherry fruit here. Good backbone of acidity. Slightly sweet. Nice finish. At 9 years from vintage, I would drink up sooner than later.
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2010 Voliero Brunello di Montalcino 93 Points
Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
I think Mike G. bought this on his way into town. A producer I was not familiar with. It is outstanding already. This is a big fruity wine, but not necessarily "modern". The nose has great big cherry fruit with tobacco, some oak/cedar and also a rosemary note that tends to make this seem more rustic almost. Very nice. On the palate, there is not the complexity of the nose yet. Its a big brawny, juicy glass of cherries with some licorice. Give it some to settle out, and this should really show well. No idea on the pricing, but if I ever see this producer at a reasonable price, I will hop on it.
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2007 Ruffino Modus Toscana IGT 88 Points
Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
Others seemed to like this more than I. The nose is very good with a nice complexity of dusty cherries. Maybe some cassis and herbs too. It could be a bit shut down on the palate (not that familiar with this wine but I think its Cab/Merlot and maybe Sangio) but its not as complex. Easy drinking. More generic red than identifiable. That said, its tasty with ripe red fruits. Worked well with the food.
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2007 Podere Poggio Scalette Il Carbonaione Alta Valle della Greve IGT 92 Points
Italy, Tuscany, Alta Valle della Greve IGT
This was excellent. It still seems to be in need of time, but it depends on how you like your wines. I can't quite remember if this is sangiovese, but I seem to recall it is some special clone of it. In any event, it drinks beautifully. Then nose has raspberries, coffee, spice and plums. Very dark for Sangiovese. On the palate, firm tannins but a still lovely texture. More black fruit here than red. Deep. Young and fresh. Its best days are ahead.
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1997 Terreno Chianti Classico Riserva 89 Points
Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
Its been a while since I had any 97 CCRs. We opened, cellared and drank a bunch of them back in the day. I think I have one or two left. Not sure who brought this, but IIRC, this was a Garagiste sale at one time. Its hanging in but its best days are behind it. The nose has cranberries and cocoa powder. On the palate, there is a nice complexity if not profound. Everything is resolved. No secrets. Dried cranberries and some tea notes. Maybe some dried forest floor. It still has plenty to offer at this point, but I would not wait much longer.
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2005 Romano Dal Forno Valpolicella Superiore Vigneto di Monte Lodoletta 91 Points
Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Valpolicella Superiore
This seemed to be the groups WOTN, but not mine. It is outstanding and this probably got hurt for my tastes by being quite an outlier for the night. It had been decanted for four hours. Despite that, my first taste was tight and oaked. I let it sit for another hour in my glass which helped. Still, its future is brighter than tonight IMO. Inky purple in the glass. The nose has black raspberries, violets, dark chocolate, and vanilla. On the palate, this is just a wall of tannins. There is some big purple fruit lurking behind that wall, but it is going to take some time to show. I often say, these are better than most Amarone's but on this one, I get nothing to suggest Amarone. Its not that wine, at least not yet. Give it five more years, minimum IMO and it has potential to be 95+. That said, it did seem to be the crowd favorite on this night.
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1996 Fontanafredda Barolo Lazzarito Vigna la Delizia 89 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
An interesting wine. I am not familiar enough with it to say if this is heading up or down at this point. The nose has tart cherries and perhaps some tar. On the palate, it is more interesting. Firm tannins. Very deep. Slightly bitter on the finish. The nose made me think fading, but the palate seems youngish and certainly vibrant. I liked it and it went well with food.
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2009 Tenuta San Guido Guidalberto Toscana IGT 91 Points
Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
I liked this wine but don't know much about it. In a room with lots of sangiovese, this drinks more like Bordeaux. I am guessing there is sangiovese here, but probably also cab and merlot which at least for now are dominating the wine. The nose has cassis, black cherries and green tobacco. Lovely silky texture. On the palate, it turns a bit lighter, but still nice cherries and red berries. There are plenty of tannins, so I would assume this will continue to develop. Nice acidity but not the strong acidity of most of the wines on the table. Really interesting. I would like to revisit this wine alone some time.
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2001 Prunotto Barolo Bussia 92 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
This is young with plenty of upside. The nose has cherries, raspberries, floral notes and even the slightest menthol note. Very good. There is a lot going on here, but it is tightly packed. Firm tannins. Lush texture. Great acidity. Long finish. I go to this later in the evening and it seemed to be opening but I would still hold for a while or give it lots of air.
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1965 Fratelli Minuto Barolo Riserva Speciale 92 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
This was pop and decant for sediment and then poured. Michael's wife Lori was celebrating and this was a birth year wine he had purchased from Chambers IIRC. Great showing. Light ruby/brown in color. Nice tart cherries on the nose with some burnt sugar and spice. Very much alive on the palate. Cherries and dried cherries and other dried fruit, maybe figs. Also a persistent minerality. Nice balance too. Its always an honor and a pleasure to drink a wine that has aged this finely. Very pretty showing. We were there for at least an hour after this opened and this never fell apart either.
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1959 Antonio Ferrari Solaria Jonica Puglia IGT 94 Points
Italy, Puglia, Puglia IGT
I seemed to like this more than the group although everyone loved it. IIRC, despite the name, this is a vintage wine that had been held at the winery for a long time (35 years) before release. On looking it up during dinner, it appears this is made from primitivo grapes. I believe Solaria is the Italian word for solarium or sun porch. It does drink a bit like port, but there is no heat. The nose has raisins and dark chocolates. On the palate, this is quite complex. I have heard of VA complaints on this wine, but I get none. The palate has more plums and fresh fruit than dried. Berto mentioned a short finish, but I thought it went for a long time. I was very surprised at the freshness. A prior bottle drank great but much more dried than this one. A real treat.
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2004 Romano Dal Forno Passito Vigna Seré 97 Points
Italy, Veneto, Veneto IGT
Easily my WOTN. My wife's too. The kind of wine that makes you stop and go "holy crap, this is good". Thanks Berto. This is a red based dessert wine. The nose has chocolate, coffee, raspberries, strawberries and black raspberries and leather. I could smell it all night. On the palate, layers and layers of fruit, complexity, still some dark chocolate notes. Great balance. sweet but not even close to cloying. Great acidity. The finish is amazing. Just a wow, wow. My palate was tired, my stomach was full and this just demanded attention. I would love to revisit this someday in a more sterile environment. Heck I would love to revisit under any almost any conditions. I can't imagine how good this will be in ten years!
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