Loire Valley

A wonderful and insightful journey though the Loire wines -- young and old, sweet and dry. The most surprising discovery for me was the number of unique stamps put by individual wine makers on their creations -- in every flight it was often difficult to say whether one was tasting the same grape variety. Some creations were easier to contemplate than to enjoy, and perhaps that was the point after all.

• 2014 Maisons Brulées Les Maisons bullées rosé

  France, Loire Valley

  Gamay, natural yeasts. Cider or lambic-like feel overall, fleshy red fruit, but a touch sour, as a young goat cheese. Not a traditional dry rose.

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• 2014 Domaine Pascal Cotat Sancerre Les Monts Damnés

  France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre

  The most 'traditional' sancerre in the line-up. Some grapefruit, hay; mineral and delicate.

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• 2013 Edmond Vatan Sancerre Clos la Néore

  France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre

  An unusual sancerre -- black currant aroma, touch of currant sweetness, full and round in the mouth, yet finishing zesty. Have never tasted a Loire sauvignon like this before. Complex and unique.

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• 2011 Didier Dagueneau Silex

  France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Pouilly-Fumé

  Another unique sauvignon blanc. Some sweet oak on the nose. Silky textured, round, touch of chestnut, anjou pear. The oak is well integrated and adds sophistication, but there is more -- a unique soil imprint is front and center, adding the nutty flavors instead of the traditional zesty acidity. Very good.

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• 2014 Thibaud Boudignon Anjou Savennieres

  France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Anjou

  Balanced and smooth, golden raising, hay. The least 'reduced' style of the round.

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• 2013 Richard Leroy Chenin Les Noëls de Montbenault

  France, Vin de France

  Just an odd wine. Yeasty, and cider like, reminiscent of a aged white rioja but with some fermenting pungent sour apple concentrate poured in at the last minute. A little too far off of the beaten path for my palate.

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• 2012 Domaine Guiberteau Saumur Blanc Brézé

  France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur

  Long and somewhat acidic, oxidized style reminiscent of an '00 Vina Tondonia. Full bodied, with golden ripe fruit. More palatable style than the preceding Leroy anjou, still not the style I enjoy any longer.

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• 2006 Domaine Les Roches (Alain et Jérome Lenoir) Chinon

  France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon

  Youthful, classic Chinon. Some tomato, red pepper, still tannic, needs time. The nose had showed a streak of the reductive aromatics as the Leroy Anjou early on, but blew off with air.

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• 1995 Catherine et Pierre Breton Chinon Beaumont

  France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon

  An evolved, mature wine. A bit cloudy, maybe, showing some age. Well integrated, softer style overall; the fruit supports the overall balance but no longer stands out. Good, drink up.

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• 1989 Olga Raffault Chinon Les Picasses

  France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon

  Dark cherry color, vibrant and bold. Sweet cherry taste is also bold and fresh, followed by the echoes of traditional vegetative flavors of pepper, tomato leaf, some tahini, and tobacco. Still a baby.

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• 2011 Domaine du Collier Saumur La Ripaille Rouge

  France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur

  Dark sweet cherry upfront, juicy, coiled. A well balanced fruit driven wine that lingers on and unpacks secondary aromas after every sip. Menthol, mushrooms, plums -- enjoyable and bold.

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• 2011 Clos Rougeard (Foucault) Saumur-Champigny Les Poyeux

  France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur-Champigny

  More of sour cherry taste as compared to two other sumurs in the line-up. Thought of a Volnay. Complex and layered wine, with sweet yet sour fruit contrasted against a touch of oak and leafy aromatics. Balanced. Very good.

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• 2011 Antoine Sanzay Saumur-Champigny Les Poyeux

  France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur-Champigny

  Dark cherry mixed with some earth, not as fruit forward but vibrant and coiled, similar in style to the La Ripaille. Perhaps more sophisticated overall, less obviously fleshy and fruity, more structured. Very good.

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