DP, some nice white burgs, DRC GE, and 05 Dujac reds.

For me, this was the last wine dinner in NYC for 2016. The mags of champagne were terrific. The whites were all blind, and for most of us double blind (different folks supplied the whites, and didn't know what others had brought). The DRC GE flight was fantastic, even with a bad 83. And the 2005 Dujac flight was my idea, as some 05 red burgs seem to be opening up. Wrong in this case, as all three of these didn't deliver tonight. Perfect bottles, just in a shell and not ready.

• 1982 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon

  France, Champagne

  From magnum, and it was classy and beautiful.

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• 1990 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon

  France, Champagne

  1990 DP is quite variable in 750's, but this magnum was picture perfect. Pure, clean, intense, simply brilliant, and likely the best bottle of 90 I've ever tasted.

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• 1955 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon

  France, Champagne

  Basically DOA, but a few of us hardy souls tried it, and enjoyed the marzipan finish (which required not breathing as you drank it since the nose was very unattractive). A guy's gotta give his birth year a chance.

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• 2011 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

  A very good wine, that danced lightly on the palate (a bit flowery I know, but that's what it did). I love 2011 in Meursault, and this was additional confirmation.

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• 2011 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Porusots

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

  This bottle didn't deliver. Good provenance, but something happened along the line. Likely the bottle, not the wine.

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• 2011 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Meursault 1er Cru Gouttes d'Or

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

  Mixed reviews on this at the table. Some liked it. Others, including me, thought is was weak and unappealing. That's what makes a market.

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• 2002 Henri Boillot Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

  A very clean and enjoyable wine, that was good if not overly noteworthy.

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• 2009 Coche-Dury Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

  Simply brilliant. Two of us declared Perrieres on this relatively early, one with Roulot and me with PYCM. At least we got the Perrieres part right.

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• 2002 Henri Boillot Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

  We drank this twice tonight, in different flights. Ray T brought back one of his old parlor tricks, and a magnum was split by the somm into two decanters. None of us called it. A very clean and enjoyable wine, that was good if not overly noteworthy.

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• 1996 Marquis de Laguiche (Joseph Drouhin) Montrachet

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru

  This bottle was fantastic. I'm a big fan of Drouhin's Montrachet, and this bottle took it to a new level. Really a beautiful drink, and WOTN for a number of us.

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• 1988 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Grands-Echezeaux

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru

  A perfect bottle of 88 DRC GE started off our red flights. Gorgeous, pure, a wine to drink, and drink, and drink...Mmm.

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• 1985 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Grands-Echezeaux

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru

  Deep, rich, simply lovely. I liked it almost as much as the 88.

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• 1983 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Grands-Echezeaux

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru

  A bad bottle of 83, which was a shame as I love the vintage. Two out of three wasn't bad though.

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• 2005 Domaine Dujac Chambertin

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru

  My first crack at Dujac's 05 Chambertin. Yes, I'm impatient, and yes, it was way too early. I will bury the rest in the back of the cellar.

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• 2005 Domaine Dujac Clos St. Denis

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos St. Denis Grand Cru

  I've had this three times in 2016, and each prior time it was simply outstanding. Tonight it was good, but didn't deliver that same sexy, silky experience. All bottles from the same case. This is a wine to enjoy early, and one modest bottle won't deter me from enjoying these young.

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• 2005 Dujac Fils et Père Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

  I drank this a few times when it was younger, and found it staggeringly good. Like the other 05's tonight, this is back in it's shell, and is not showing particularly well right now.

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