Burgundy WIMPS, Le Figaro table

• 1998 Pol Roger Champagne Vintage Brut 94 Points

  France, Champagne

  Magnum. Nicely fresh. Rounded with a clean line. Finishes well. Very good. Still on great form at the end of the meal. Really good. ****1/2

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Truite sauvage roussie, courgettes, amandes, girolles et verveine

• 2002 Bouchard Père et Fils Chevalier-Montrachet La Cabotte 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru

  A touch of oak on the nose with quite a dense mineral core. Plush and rounded. Attractive. Lacks the verve and energy for greatness but a very nice drink. ****

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• 1990 Pierre Morey Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières 88 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

  Quite rich on the nose. Seen some oak about largely integrated. Reasonably rich. Drops away towards the end. Possibly a bit too rich for Perrietes but that might be the vintage as well as the style. A bit stollid with air. ***

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• 1999 Domaine Roulot Meursault Les Tessons Clos de Mon Plaisir 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

  Very fresh. Mineral and bright. A touch of nutty butter giving some shape to the mid palate. Very chiselled and poised. Proper. Just about ****1/2. A 50/50 blend of the 02 Chevalier-Montrachet Cabotte and this Roulot turns out to be greater than the sum of its parts.

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Agnolotti de pigeon sauvage, truffe de Bourgogne, Parmesan et petit pois

• 2007 Domaine Fourrier Vougeot 1er Cru Les Petits Vougeots Vieille Vigne 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vougeot 1er Cru

  Nicely rich on the nose. A little darker and drier than previously and a little lighter on the finish. Still quite rich though. Food lightens it and gives a fresher line. Very nice, but tighter than previous bottles, possibly time for a slumber. ****

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• 2002 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Charmes-Chambertin 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

  A touch of oak on the nose initially and a little inexpressive, but it opens nicely. Round and yes, charming, with bright red fruit, gentle sous bois and a silky texture. A sense of richness on a lithe frame. ****

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• 2002 Bouchard Père et Fils Chambertin-Clos de Bèze 95 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru

  Very rich and plush with plenty of stuffing. Luxe. Needs time to mellow but lots here. Very serious. Lots of depth. ****(*)

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Carré et épaule d'agneau, carrotte, pomme de terre nouvelles et blettes

• 1999 Domaine Denis Bachelet Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Corbeaux Vieilles Vignes 95 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Dense and dark with a sense of meatiness on the nose. Dark fruited but very precise. Lots of depth and a lovely shape. Super definition, density and gloss. Really super. This has fulfilled the potential that a bottle four years ago was heralding. *****

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• 1993 Faiveley Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Aux Chaignots 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

  A touch agricultural on the nose. Quite sweet fruited on the attack. And then it kicks. Seems to get a bit lighter on cleaner with air. It changes with air from the rustic to the strict to the unfashionable to the insouciant. It's shamelessly old school from another era. More interesting than fun! ***1/2

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• 1992 Domaine Bruno Clair Chambertin-Clos de Bèze 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru

  Magnum. Mellow. A slightly caramel oatmealy sense to it. Lacking a little focus, but very mellow. Relaxed but a little soft. ***1/2

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Sélection de fromages

• NV Equipo Navazos La Bota de Palo Cortado 48 "Bota Punta" 95 Points

  Spain, Andalucía, Manzanilla de Sanlúcar de Barrameda

  You could sniff this for hours without losing interest. So deep and intense. Rich and full on the attack, and then fantastic acidity that cuts through everything. Painfully intense and very complex. *****

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• 1998 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Eiswein 95 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  A generous glass from Filippo. Gloriously intense pineapple nose. Intense and penetrating. Clearly sweet, but this is elegance and precision over power, but at no loss of intensity. Spherical. *****

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