So Long, Farewell, Auf Wiedersehen, Goodnight: A Night to Remember

Capitalle Grille, Mpls, MN
Tasted Sunday, July 23, 2017 by rocknroller with 623 views

Introduction

We gather here together on the 23rd of July for the solemn occasion of saying goodbye to Jason and Tracy who head back to the left coast for their next excellent adventure. Fortunately, the night was festive and fun, as 9 of us celebrated the good times and many memories over the last few years on what was truly a remarkable evening: not the least of which was due to Jason, Tracy, and Siggy sharing some truly special wines amongst many other gems. The private room at The Capital Grille is a perfect venue and our service and food on this night was splendid as well.

So you say you're not much of a Bordeaux fan, you don't really get it. What's all the hype about? Who cares about First Growths and Second Growths, Super Seconds and aged wines? Yada, Yada, Yada. Well my friends, if you were not on the ship yet, and you were looking to have your Bordeaux epiphany, then this was your night. If you don't get it after this; the ship has sailed and, as the song says: "Save my life, I'm going down for the last time..." (Just a little reference to Head East for those paying attention). I've thumped the book of Bordeaux for a long time, and I don't know what more anyone could ask for than the some of the purest expressions of aged, magnificent wines I could ever imagine. An oldie, but a goodie, "Oh What a Night".

Flight 1 - Champagne (2 Notes)

  • 2008 R. & L. Legras Champagne Grand Cru Saint-Vincent 93 Points

    France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

    Light gold color. Drank 1 glass over 30 minutes plus. Citrus, apple, green apple skins, orange peel, mineral on the nose. The palate is elegant with a sleek chalky minerality, tart green apple, elegant, mid weight, apple skin, citrus peel and a great finish. A very promising young St. Vincent

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  • NV R. & L. Legras Champagne Grand Cru Hommage Blanc de Blancs 92 Points

    France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

    Light gold color. Drank 1 glass over 30 minutes. This was a nice contrast in styles vs. the '08n St. Vincent. This Hommage being a much more toasted wine with more weight overall, but still maintaining finesse. I love the toast, almond, almond paste, and and earthy sense along with citrus notes on the nose and palate. 92+ to 93 pts.

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Flight 2 - Sweet Treat (1 Note)

Flight 3 - The White Burgs (2 Notes)

  • 2010 Domaine Louis Michel Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

    Pale gold color. Drank 1 glass over 40 minutes. Not quite as boisterous as many of the '10's are right now. Still showing good brine, seashore aromas, wet stones, white fruits and citrus, with a hint of fennel. I don't think we've seen the best from this yet. 92+pts.

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  • 2014 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet

    Light gold color. Drank 1 glass over 30 minutes. Very good already and though youthful it is very approachable - much more so than the '12 and '14 of Jacques Carillon PM a week ago. This had a lean white fruit, melon, lightly toasted oak barrel, on the finish. Very elegant and balanced style. Top notch village wine - as one might expect.

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Flight 4 - Bordeaux Flight 1: Old Beauties Volume 1 (2 Notes)

  • 1961 Château Montrose 100 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe

    These were the same bottles that Chablis28 chronicled the history of in his notes: all from the cold, dank, dark dirt basement of a St. Paul home. Most of the wines we acquire, we don't absolutely know the provenance. We trust the source and hope for their authenticity, not to mention their careful and thoughtful storage. The beauty of a fortuitous situation like this is that none of those provenance concerns was in question. The only issue was the condition of the individual bottle and all the variables that go into what becomes of the elixir inside. I've had amazing fortune with countless older bottles over the years as the wine gods have smiled on me as I opened bottle after bottle. However, I don't think I could anticipate a situation where all four bottles of wine, from '55, '59, and two from '61 could be so pristinely preserved and be near perfection. These bottles were an amazing display of terroir, vintage, and winemaking. A living, breathing organism that when finally opened blossomed into something almost more beautiful than one can imagine. The fact that these wines can evolve into what they have and show such life, along with the near certain potential of even more longevity, is simply amazing.

    Dark red color with a 1cm transitional margin. PNP, drank 1 glass over 2 hours. The '61 Montrose was the first bottle we poured. As I lifted my glass, I instantly new this was something special. Sure, it's a birth year wine and I had high hopes, but you never know. The nose was exploding out of the glass and growing more intense and complex with every swirl. Bright cherries, rose petals, intensely perfumed and seductive, saddle leather, dried flowers, pencil, and dried forest floor aromas. My words simply can't do justice to what was an ethereal nose. Now how the palate could manage to follow that nose is a mystery, but one that did not need to be solved. The palate is medium bodied with a sensuous mouth feel, and everything is so perfectly integrated and balanced. The tannins are folded into the red fruits, deeply earthy core, wood spices, pencil, leather, and floral elements. The finish is long and lifted and leaves you completely energized. This got better and better over the two hours. I'm not sure what perfection is, but this may be as close as I've come. A singular wine, and one of the best I've had. This may be a one off of good fortune for which I will always be grateful to the wine gods. Stunning. Co- WOTN 100pts.

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  • 1955 Château Haut-Brion 100 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    These were the same bottles that Chablis28 chronicled the history of in his notes: all from the cold, dank, dark dirt basement of a St. Paul home. Most of the wines we acquire, we don't absolutely know the provenance. We trust the source and hope for their authenticity, not to mention their careful and thoughtful storage. The beauty of a fortuitous situation like this is that none of those provenance concerns was in question. The only issue was the condition of the individual bottle and all the variables that go into what becomes of the elixir inside. I've had amazing fortune with countless older bottles over the years as the wine gods have smiled on me as I opened bottle after bottle. However, I don't think I could anticipate a situation where all four bottles of wine, from '55, '59, and two from '61 could be so pristinely preserved and be near perfection. These bottles were an amazing display of terroir, vintage, and winemaking. A living, breathing organism that when finally opened blossomed into something almost more beautiful than one can imagine. The fact that these wines can evolve into what they have and show such life, along with the near certain potential of even more longevity, is simply amazing.

    Very dark red color with a clear 2mm margin. Second time having this wine and another example of individual bottle variation in the same cellar. This was the darkest of the four wines. PNP, drank 1 glass over 2 hours. Drinking this side by side with the '61 Montrose was a sheer delight. The contrasts were noticeable, but the purity and expression of both were divine. The Haut Brion also has an immense and intoxicating aroma that while beautiful immediately becomes incredibly intense over 20 to 30 minutes, building on the perfume of earth, shitake mushroom, cassis, cigar, violets, graphite and a touch of funk. Deeper and more intense both on the nose and palate, showing stunning purity, as well as concentration, of dark cassis fruits that simply belied the 62 years of age. Wow, even though there is no question, one would just not believe this is that old. The texture is luxurious, not like the glycerin monsters of today; but like that of silk sheets that caress your entire body. The palate is probably even better than the nose and clearly Graves. Dense and intense cassis, cigar, gravel, graphite, crème de cassis with subtle mint, and gorgeous porcini infused damp earthiness. The balance is perfect with velvet soft tannins and a very long finish. Glorious. Co-WOTN 100pts.

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Flight 5 - Bordeaux Flight 2: Old Beauties Volume 2 (2 Notes)

  • 1959 Château Latour Grand Vin 98 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    These were the same bottles that Chablis28 chronicled the history of in his notes: all from the cold, dank, dark dirt basement of a St. Paul home. Most of the wines we acquire, we don't absolutely know the provenance. We trust the source and hope for their authenticity, not to mention their careful and thoughtful storage. The beauty of a fortuitous situation like this is that none of those provenance concerns was in question. The only issue was the condition of the individual bottle and all the variables that go into what becomes of the elixir inside. I've had amazing fortune with countless older bottles over the years as the wine gods have smiled on me as I opened bottle after bottle. However, I don't think I could anticipate a situation where all four bottles of wine, from '55, '59, and two from '61 could be so pristinely preserved and be near perfection. These bottles were an amazing display of terroir, vintage, and winemaking. A living, breathing organism that when finally opened blossomed into something almost more beautiful than one can imagine. The fact that these wines can evolve into what they have and show such life, along with the near certain potential of even more longevity, is simply amazing.

    Very dark red color with no bricking. PNP, drank 1 glass over 90 minutes plus. Another pristinely preserved bottle. The nose is remarkably youthful along with the palate. More similar to the '55 Haut Brion. Blind, you could not be convinced that this is 58 years old. The fruit purity is beautiful with crème de cassis upfront followed by mulberry, boysenberry, dusty mineral, violets, tobacco leaf and more subtle mint and cedar box. The palate is layered with beautiful black and blue berry fruits, tobacco, dried earth, mint, very dusty and intense with round tannins and another long finish. Still powerful, this can go for 25 years more easily. 98pts.

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  • 1961 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste 97 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    These were the same bottles that Chablis28 chronicled the history of in his notes: all from the cold, dank, dark dirt basement of a St. Paul home. Most of the wines we acquire, we don't absolutely know the provenance. We trust the source and hope for their authenticity, not to mention their careful and thoughtful storage. The beauty of a fortuitous situation like this is that none of those provenance concerns was in question. The only issue was the condition of the individual bottle and all the variables that go into what becomes of the elixir inside. I've had amazing fortune with countless older bottles over the years as the wine gods have smiled on me as I opened bottle after bottle. However, I don't think I could anticipate a situation where all four bottles of wine, from '55, '59, and two from '61 could be so pristinely preserved and be near perfection. These bottles were an amazing display of terroir, vintage, and winemaking. A living, breathing organism that when finally opened blossomed into something almost more beautiful than one can imagine. The fact that these wines can evolve into what they have and show such life, along with the near certain potential of even more longevity, is simply amazing.

    Dark red color with a 5mm bricked margin. PNP, drank 1 glass over 90 minutes plus. Another perfect specimen and the third time we've been able to drink this honey. As Mr. Loaf said, two out three ain't bad. It just goes to show you, no matter what - every bottle in the same situation evolves differently. I still think the first time was the best and left me about speechless that night. Tonight, after two perfect and one near perfect wines, it had a couple of tough acts to follow. And it sure did it well. Much more like the '61 Montrose in overall character with red fruits and a medium body. On the nose, cherry, red plum, earthy, pencil, and leather. The palate like before was well integrated and provocative. Fine grained tannins, leather, red berries and cherry, good acid, purity, funk and wood spice on the finish. On any other night, this would have been the WOTN. 96+ to 97pts.

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Flight 6 - Bordeaux Flight 3: Not Quite as...Old Beauties Volume 3 (3 Notes)

  • 1983 Château Canon 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    Dark red color. Drank 1 glass over 90 minutes, from magnum. A very nice wine; not up to the '85 from the other night in terms of complexity and purity. Tart cherry, gravel, some scorched earth, dried herbs, a little high toned with strawberry fruit emerging on the back end. Nice.

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  • 1985 Château Léoville Las Cases 96 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    Very dark red/purple color. Slow ox for 2 hours, drank 1 glass over 2 hours. On a night where the shining stars were the wines from the 50's and 60's, this was nearly as magical, and on any other night might have been WOTN. A beautiful wine that is maybe, just maybe ready to go. Lovely dried herbs and spice on the nose, tobacco leaf, lively, cherry and cassis, mint, an elixir of silken texture that is actually almost delicate in its elegance. The is one of the best LLC's I've had. 95+ to 96pts.

    Addendum: First of all, I need to get Chablis28 to stop copying my paper, cheater...J. It is amusing, because I didn't read his note til after I wrote mine, only to find our impressions so similar. Funny.

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  • 1989 Château Gruaud Larose 95 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    Dark red color with an 8mm transitional margin. PNP, drank 1 glass over 90 minutes. I love this wine and i love old GL. These wines are always quintessential old Bordeaux and over deliver. So deeply earthy with perfume of forest floor spice and rose hips, funk, dark red fruits and cassis, sandalwood and fine leather, wrapped in an elegant, medium body with integrating tannins and a long finish. Another wine that could easily have been WOTN on different evening. 95+ to 96pts.

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Flight 7 - Bordeaux Flight 4: Younger Guns (3 Notes)

  • 1999 Château Cos d'Estournel 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe

    Very dark red/purple color. This got maybe 30 to 60 minutes open before serving. Drank 1 glass from magnum over 90 minutes. This was considerably better from magnum than a bottle a year or so ago. Quite seductive in it's nose of dark fruits, olive tapenade, tar and burnt barrel notes, more subtle earth, and very exotic spice box aromas. Love it. On the palate there's dark raspberry and mixed berry flavors with very good concentration and vigor. 93+pts.

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  • 2003 Château Léoville Poyferré 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    Very dark red/purple color. Drank 1 glass over an hour. This, along with the '03 Pontet Canet, came at the end of a long series of pretty remarkable wines, and they probably didn't get the attention they deserved. Nonetheless, they were both very good. The LP is dense and almost juicy, full bodied, cassis, with an essence of sweet fruits, creme de cassis, pencil lead, oak, and firm yet round tannins. This developed a bit of savory character over time and had some scorched earthiness too. This drinks nicely now, but I see a good upside in 5+ years. 93pts(+).

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  • 2003 Château Pontet-Canet 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Very dark red/purple color. 2 hr decant, drank 1 glass over an hour. This, along with the '03 Leoville Poyferre, came at the end of a long series of pretty remarkable wines, and they probably didn't get the attention they deserved. Nonetheless, they were both very good. The Pontet Canet is by far the most youthful of the flight and the group tonight. Still, it is quite good already and shows good promise with patience. Had this been on the front end of a four hour evening I think we would have seen further progression in glass. Espresso, cedar, cassis, black cherry, tart, very nice structure, primary and youthful.

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Closing

It always hard to say goodbye, but if it is going to happen, you might as well make it a celebration to remember. Certainly, this was one of the best nights of wine and friends we've ever had.

Jason and Tracy - On behalf of all us in our extended wine group, we thank you for friendship and generosity and wish you nothing but the best as you explore old haunts and new on your next most excellent adventure.

We know it's just goodbye for now...till we meet again, CHEERS!

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