Seattle Burgundy Group Tasting #2 -- Chambertin related
Cordon Selections
Tasted Thursday, October 25, 2007 by Seattle Burgundy Group with 742 views
Introduction
In our continuing journey of communes, we try four Gevrey Chambertins and two Grand Crus. All wines briefly carafed two hours in advance. Cool night, full moon, fairly warm room, Rockies letting us down.
Flight 1 (6 Notes)
Closing
It was agreed that this group of wines offered more pleasure than the two flights of Nuits St George the previous month.
2004 Camille Giroud Latricières-Chambertin 87 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru
Smells like a pretty classic 2004, with a touch of tomato to the cedar and ash. Fairly shrill entry. Quite high-toned, with aggressive acids. Second time through the wine turned a bit fusty, with the aromatics rather secondary. The palate was more resolved, however, and this wine probably exhibited the most change of any of the six.
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2004 Sylvie Esmonin (Michel et Fille) Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
In this single blind tasting, there was nothing else this could be. Sylvie's new massive employment of stems during maceration gave this wine a raunchy St. Joseph-like aroma and even mouth feel, and that was aggravated by a classic 2004 ashen note. The tongue is thrown for a loop, expecting green stem tannins, but instead it ended up being one of the, uh, smoothest wines of the night. And controversial: it ended up as second favorite, but with a third of respondents also rating it dead last.
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2005 S.C. Guillard Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Corbeaux 84 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Procurement agent Jon feared for this baby. Bright sweet 2005 aromas of cassis, pomegranate, and cultivated raspberry. Also the smell of filter pad, or was it just fuzzy raspberries? The flavors were monolitically of cultivated cherry and raspberry, leading to a flat mid-palate and short, nondescript finish. Group rated it sixth of six.
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2004 Domaine Bruno Clair Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques 91 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
I guessed this to be a 2005, with a blowsier, riper style revealing caramelized raspberry and cotton candy, not terribly unlike a Carneros Pinot Noir (at first.) The aromatics flattened later, and then revealed an interesting Nebbiolish, slightly reductive quality. Flavors were the lowest-toned of the bunch. Group ranked it fourth of six.
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2005 Domaine Taupenot-Merme Mazoyères-Chambertin 90 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru
An absolute jumble of intense fruits (blueberry crisp), secondary notes (I was fooled into thinking this was a 2004 by the Graves-like cedar gamay notes), and stemminess (this was my backup guess as the Esmonin.) Did not quite live up to its Grand Cru status, with a rather dull mid-palate, but has decent structure. Group ranked it third of six.
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2005 Domaine Taupenot-Merme Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Bel-Air 88 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
The least effusive of the 2005s, but very bright. The wine remained as shy as could be, and given the rustic componentry of the wine, I'm surprised that the wine showed as well as it did: group ranked it first of six, with little dissent.
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