1976 Avery Red Burgundy Lunch

Avery's of Bristol used a number of sources for the "Avery" labelled burgundy but the most regularly used was Remoissenet. They also commonly purchased production in excess of AOC regulations and bottled the wine as "Bourgogne", together with tongue in cheek reference to the actual vineyard providing the wine. These wines then appeared on price lists together with wines identified correctly, often at half the price. Three such curios purchased from a good cellar featured in this lunch.

• 1998 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut

  France, Champagne

  Served in a white burgundy glass, this Krug first poured with a beer-like head, such was the abundance of the bead. Deep gold in colour. Toasty nose of baked apples, nuts, yellow stone fruit and meaty strawberry pinot fruits. Extraordinary long finish with crisp acidity to balance the weight and a simply beautiful wine, now ready but will hold.

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• 2008 Remoissenet Père et Fils Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

  Colour is deep bright gold. Rich and sweet fruited nose overlain by nutty cinnamon oak and roasted hazelnuts. Soft finish, without the cut of acidity needed for freshness. While not the class of the 2004 enjoyed earlier this week, still a lovely wine, but blown away by the two it was paired with. No need to keep any longer.

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• 2010 Henri Boillot Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru

  Pale yellow colour, surprisingly undeveloped. Wow nose of white nectarines and flowers with a background of oak. With time pears and some spice from the oak. Glorious long finish and very Puligny-like in structure and profile.

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• 2010 Remoissenet Père et Fils Le Montrachet

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru

  We had to try one of these after it topped the Don Cornwall 2010 vintage tasting for the second year in a row (thank you David G!). Golden hue with green tinges and noticable viscosity. Powerfully aromatic nose of ripe chardonnay, spicey new-cinnamon oak and citrus zest. With time, oily orange peel and zest possibly from a touch of (positive) botrytis. Extraordinary concentration, length and the classic oily texture of GC WB. Wow!

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• 1976 Averys Bourgogne Diamond Jubliee

  France, Burgundy, Bourgogne

  English bottled and likely to be from Corton due to the "Diamond Jubilee" reference. Dense red garnet in colour. Strangely sweet nose suggests the barrel was "improved" and maybe not by the addition of Syrah, as this shows port like black currant notes. Lacks pinot aromatics. Dense palate with earth and tar, high alcohol and the warm finish of the vintage. The least Burgundian of the three. Needed protein.

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• 1976 Averys Bourgogne Commandeur de Chambourg

  France, Burgundy, Bourgogne

  French bottled (Remoissenet) and likely to be from Gevery Chambertin Les Combottes 1er Cru. Dense red garnet in colour. Ripe pinot aromatics with some mint, meat spice and smoke. It shows the heat of the vintage but remains fresh with cool fruit aromatics. Gorgeous palate with plenty of fine mouth coating tannin. The most perfumed of the three. Improved with air for over two hours and the last drop was the best.

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• 1976 Averys Bourgogne Cuvée Clemenceau

  France, Burgundy, Bourgogne

  French bottled (Remoissenet) and likely to be from Le Chambertin Grand Cru. The densest red garnet colour of the three. Slightly over ripe smokey pinot aromatics with some prune notes from the heat of the vintage. Very "Old School" in style. The palate is all power and weight, with plenty of fine mouth coating tannin and a long meaty and salty finish. Improved with air for over two hours. The most powerful of the three. Wish I had decanted this one.

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• NV Charles Heidsieck Champagne Brut Réserve

  France, Champagne

  Since we had started with a Krug we thought we should finish with a baby-"Krug". 2008 vintage base wine, laid in 2009 and disgorged in 2017, so this bottle is fresh as a daisy and showing the benefit of 8 years on lees. Pale with abundant and fine bead. Fresh nose of pastry with hints of toast and Vegemite. Lovely and refreshing Champagne, and the bottle seemed to empty quickly.

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