Gantenbein vertical 2001-16
Restaurant Musigny, Zurich
Tasted Friday, February 8, 2019 by sirpat00 with 257 views
Introduction
My first Gantenbein vertical at Restaurant Musigny (the host participated) in Zurich. All 16 vintages since 2001 were poured. What was remarkable, and everybody agreed, was the consistency except 2002 which unfortunately proved a bad bottle (an auction bottle, unsurprisingly). I personally was most impressed by the stellar 2013 which convinced with concentration and depth. Other outstanding vintages were 2001, 2004 and 2015 with the 2010 considered the WOTN by others around the table (93PR). Low-lights in my view (only relatively speaking!) were 2003 and 2008 although the latter was not rated by some and considered flawed. Interestingly, the younger the vintage the more typical the earthy character showed – which as we were explained was a trait that become more dominant over time as the Gantenbeins who took over this terrific winery in the 90ies. We also learned how Martha Gantenbein spends weeks in the field during harvest, hand-picking only the right grapes so that no optical sorting is required before vilification.
My average score ended up at 92.4 (or 92.6 ex 2008) which compares to 93.3 and 93.4 as an average from other participants (Collector1855, Nostrabacchus) - Further prove of the consistency of this producer!
Lastly, obviously, super big Thanks to the initiator and host, great friend and wine whisperer Cailles who went through the trouble of sourcing all the vintages, finding a location and inviting the right people!
2001 Gantenbein Pinot Noir 94 Points
Switzerland, Eastern Switzerland, Graubünden, Fläsch
Cherry fruit and fresh herbs. Somewhat earthy but hardly showing the age. Comes across well-structured with still sufficient freshness. Probably many more years of aging potential left.
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2002 Gantenbein Pinot Noir Flawed
Switzerland, Eastern Switzerland, Graubünden, Fläsch
This was unfortunately cooked beef broth and clearly has had it. No comparison to 2001 or 2003 which stood next beside hence probably just a bad bottle (was bought in auction).
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2003 Gantenbein Pinot Noir 90 Points
Switzerland, Eastern Switzerland, Graubünden, Fläsch
Good balance between fruit and earthy notes, but with less vigour than other vintages. Crispy freshness. A tad reductive I found (was there some CO2?). Lighter texture than other vintages.
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2004 Gantenbein Pinot Noir 94 Points
Switzerland, Eastern Switzerland, Graubünden, Fläsch
Great breadth of aromatics with a precise red cherry fruit and a greenish sting, but in no way disturbing rather adding some herbal complexity. Great tannic structure providing for a full body. A great showing and one of my favourites in the 2001-16 vertical.
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