2007 Burgundy, round 2

Noize
Tasted Thursday, October 8, 2020 by NickA with 134 views

Introduction

Another opportunity to luxuriate in some 2007 Burgundy

Flight 1 - Aperitif and gougeres (1 Note)

  • 2007 Bollinger Champagne La Grande Année 92 Points

    France, Champagne

    A few years since I've tried this, and (no surprise) it's in a much nicer place than back then. Succulent but with a mineral backbone, and an overriding sense of balance. Doesn't seem young, but I'm not sure this bottle was at peak yet either. Slipped down all too easily - that's a compliment!

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Flight 2 - Pan-fried Red Mullet, Spaetzle Nero, Shiso, Ginger and Chilli (2 Notes)

  • 2007 Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

    Some concern in advance about how this bottle would show, but no doubts whatsoever once poured - relatively pale straw colour and exactly what you'd want on the nose. Nice structure, plenty of lemony fruit and attractive scents of butterscotch and vanilla (from tertiary development and oak treatment, respectively). Delicious.

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  • 2009 Domaine de la Bongran (Thevenet) Viré-Clessé Cuvée E. J. Thevenet 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Viré-Clessé

    Loved the vibrant yellow colour on this. As expected, a big wine, with a viscous mouthfeel; there were hints of residual sugar, and it verged on a white Rhone in style, but (like many successful whites from that region!) ultimately things finished in a cool and stony fashion.

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Flight 3 - Duck Breast, Trompette Purée, Jerusalem Artichoke, Salardaise, Duck Sauce (3 Notes)

Flight 4 - Slow Cooked Beef Cheek, Pomme Purée, Red Wine Sauce (2 Notes)

  • 2007 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru

    That trademark Lambrays rich nose and juicy palate. Seemed right in its drinking window, and a pleasure to drink, but somehow never quite ignited or excited. May well give more pleasure in a few years, with additional complexity.

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  • 2007 Hubert Lignier Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Clos Baulet 95 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis 1er Cru

    Drinking perfectly, and showing the quality of the producer - all the balance and joyous approachability of the 2007s with an extra (Bretty) aromatic twist that kept me coming back for more.

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Flight 5 - Selection of Cheeses (2 Notes)

  • 2007 Lucie & Auguste Lignier Clos de la Roche 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

    Drinking really well - some tertiary elements coming through on the nose, not too full-bodied, plenty of finesse. Probably deserved more attention than I gave it.

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  • 2007 Olivier Bernstein Clos de la Roche 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

    Previous experience with Bernstein was a bit bruising and not hugely enjoyable, but this wine was excellent tonight - plenty of fruit and the trademark solidity of Clos de la Roche without any sense of over-extraction.

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Closing

Consistent vintage character tonight: integrated sweet tannins, an easy balance, a forgiving drinking window. Perhaps a lack of stature - let alone grandeur - but so much pleasure that this hardly matters.

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