Back in NYC

A few weeks ago I did my first wine dinner and now I'd say this is the first wine dinner that is more similar to pre-pandemic style. Great company and wine and food. Many thanks to the folks at Francie who took very good care of us and created an excellent meal. All the wines showed very well

ROMAN ARMY SOURDOUGH sunflower spread, whipped lardo
PARSNIP BOMBOLINI black truffle, pancetta pepato
CRUDITES green garlic-pepita dip
OYSTERS ramp mignonette

• NV Laherte Frères Champagne Rosé de Meunier Extra Brut

  France, Champagne

  Basic easy and fresh rose. I think meunier actually makes quite nice rose wines - have been finding myself enjoying a few different ones with that as the base. It's tart red fruits. Fresh and lively. Not really complex, but it's a good palate warm-up.

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ESCABECHE yellowtail, farro, pimenton

• 2020 Weingut Keller Riesling Trocken

  Germany, Rheinhessen

  Off the list at Francie. This was paired with a fish course. More interesting than the price tag would suggest but that often seems to be the case with riesling. It's a bit of spicy and dry and crisp.

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BUCATINI rosemary, amatriciana
AGNOLOTTI purple broccoli, spring onion, caciocavallo
RIGATONI green garlic, fennel pollen sausage, broccoli di ciccio

• 2005 Pieve Santa Restituta (Gaja) Brunello di Montalcino Rennina

  Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

  Opened and decanted in advance of the dinner and paired with a pasta course. It's less aggressive than I expected. Would have thought it would be stronger on the oak, but that is pretty well integrated at this point. Still a hefty wine. Has the fruit, but starting to get some secondary side to it as well.

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• 2005 Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Surprised a bit by this wine. We've bought a few of the old ones, but I think of this as more of a standard Napa Valley wine. It was much more restrained than I expected. Definitely new world and has that fruit, but balanced with good acidity.

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HERITAGE PORK molasses, cabbage, cherry peppers

• 1961 Château Lascombes

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

  Drinking incredibly well. It was opened maybe a course before and then poured through a strainer. Amazing how young it's drinking given the age (happy 60th wine!). It's still got some fruit well balanced with the library and cigar. Drank next to two 82s and don't think if it had been blind I'd have picked the older wine.

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• 1982 Château Beychevelle

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

  Drinking incredibly well and perhaps one of my favorites of the night. It was just very vibrant. More secondary in nature but it really takes you right into a library with the cigar and leather and maybe even old books to it. There's just a hint of black fruits but they are more faded.

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• 1982 Château Canon

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

  A bit more restrained and quieter than the other two Bordeauxs that we had alongside. It seemed like it could potentially use a bit of a decant or a bit more time in the glass.

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DRY AGED CROWN OF ROHAN DUCK swiss chard, parsnip, soppressata jam

• 2001 Henri Bonneau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve des Célestins

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Still quite youthful so I think we may need to wait on ours some more. This was bright and fruity and powerful and yet there is an undercurrent of elegance to it as well.

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• 1989 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  Nice Rhone wine from a great year. It's a well constructed wine and drinks well although it confirms my theory that I'm less hermitage than cote rotie.

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NEW YORK CHEESECAKE stone fruit, fennel pollen, sunflower seed

• 1986 Château d'Yquem

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

  Out of a little shot glass which in some ways was good since I OD'ed on this wine a few years ago and so I find now a little bit goes a long way. This is one of my favorite (and I think underrated) vintages of this wine. Drinking very well but with plenty of years left.

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Hard to pick a clear WOTN. The 61 was just singing as was the 82 Beychevelle. And I'm always a sucker for Bonneau. Overall a lovely evening.