Notes on Wines from December 2021

These are notes from “bring your own” wine functions in the 2021 Festive period, particularly Cathy and Mike’s annual Christmas lunch, organised into whites and reds.

• 2018 Querciabella Batàr 93 Points

  Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT

  Con served double blind this excellent Chardonnay (in fact 50% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Bianco) I couldn’t place. It wasn’t Côte de Beaune or Chablis and yet it didn’t scream New World either. Lovely gentle aromatics and attractive, dense and tactile mouthfeel. White florals, blanched almonds and pears. Young but quite enjoyable on the evening. A classy wine. 93+.

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• 2012 Marc Brédif Vouvray Classic 91 Points

  France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray

  Served double blind, small pour. Chenin typicity. At a nice stage of its evolution for drinking. The sugar, fruit and acid in good balance.

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• 2013 Wittmann Westhofener Morstein Riesling Großes Gewächs 93 Points

  Germany, Rheinhessen

  Served double blind. The terpene kero on the nose and palate suggested the Riesling was older than eight years. There was also some preserved and confected fruit (like “crystalised Gummy Bears”, someone said). The impression of plenty of sugar on palate (I guessed ~ 7 – 8 gl/rs) – yet with a green streak down the middle of it. Seemingly tottering on the margin between ripe and overripe. Vibrant acidity to match. Overall, a top Großes Gewächs that will cellar but is ready to go now.

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• 2015 Sigalas Assyrtiko Epta Oia 92 Points

  Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini

  Served double blind. Right, this is obvious: Chablis! Wrong! Actually, more oyster shell and seaspray Chablis on bouquet than on palate. The flinty, granite-like minerality, green fruit flavours, acidic structure and salinity in the mouth pointed away from Chablis. SoJo, the provider, is an Assyrtiko enthusiast and this characterful wine seemed a good example of the variety. 92+.

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• 2015 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières 95 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

  Fully decanted three hour before serving. Served by me unmasked because someone identified the wine from the capsule. I chose the 2015, rather than the 2014, of this cuvée on the evening because I hoped it would be more open and accessible. A typical PYCM bouquet. Mineral, mealy, flinty, citric, showing lovely white florals. On palate, the 2015 is not far behind the 2014 in quality and cellarworthiness. Dense, concentrated and chewy. That exquisite balance between full, ripe rich fruit and direct, energetic acidity. Superb quality. Ideally though hold until at least 2023. Scored partly based on potential, 95+.

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• 2010 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru La Forest 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  Served double blind in a pair with the 2012 by Thierry and Andrew. It wasn’t surprising these wines were Dauvissat La Forests from good vintages. They seemed in the Dauvissat style. The only surprise, on the reveal, was that it was the 2012 I preferred, finding greater complexity and detail, than with the 2010. No doubt, 2010 is a great Chablis vintage, but I have always liked the phenolics of some better 2012 Chablis I’ve tried. Still, an attractive bouquet of lemon, preserved citrus zest, oyster shell, green apple and seaspray. Chablis typicity on palate, tense and focussed acids, open and balanced, with a touch of honey. High quality 1er Chablis. I thought drinking on its optimal plateau for at least the next five to six years. 92+.

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• 2012 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru La Forest 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  Served double blind in a pair with the 2010 by Thierry and Andrew. A more interesting nose than the 2010, citric and orchard fruit, chalky minerals but more baking spices and white florals. After a mineral, austere entry to the palate, a similar fruit profile to the 2010, just more exuberant, intense citric fruit (without straying too far into the tropical). Also, a sense of sappy, grippy, pithy 2012 phenolics. A very dry stony, saline finish. On the night, preferred over the 2010. Similarly, I thought, on its optimal plateau for at least the next five to six years. 93+.

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• 2009 Albert Mann Riesling Rosenberg 89 Points

  France, Alsace

  Served double blind. Kerosene, lemon, grapefruit, gooseberry and lemon Turkish delight scents. In the mouth, sweeter and richer than expected, more than I would have preferred. The opulence offset to some extent by acidity but threatening over-ripe and overblown. To drink soon.

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• 2009 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Côte Bouguerots 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  Served double blind in a pair with the 2005 Les Clos by Rauno. Light gold colour with flecks of green. On the nose, fresh and breezy aromas of limes and lemons, clotted cream, chalk powder, green apples and white flowers. In the mouth, persistent, fresh acidity, definitely not a stereotypical over-ripe 2009. Good concentration and structure, clearly at Grand Cru level. Drinking optimally now, I’d be tempted to drink over the next 3 – 4 years, although it should go longer …

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• 2005 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  Served double blind in a pair with the 2009 Bougros by Rauno. Deeper gold. A lactic, lemon curd bouquet with touches of cheddar, butterscotch and preserved citrus fruit. There was a debate about whether this Les Clos was premoxed or just appropriately oxidised, at age 16. I was more in the latter camp seeing some nice preserved and dried fruit flavours, well framed by bright acidity in the Les Clos. However, quite an evolved Chablis probably past its peak. Either way, I’d be drinking up soon.

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• 1998 El Molíno Chardonnay 91 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley, Rutherford

  Served double blind by Wilco. Attractive old and old-fashioned, charming New World Chardonnay, gracefully evolved. Lower acid, riper style with blanched almonds passed their sell-by date, cream whip, toffee apple and traces of vanilla pod oak. The alcohol a little elevated (14.5% ABV). I thought early 1990s or even perhaps late 1980s Chardonnay. The polar opposite of a modern style white Burgundy. Nonetheless, enjoyable, in its own style. Hard to score, 91? Drink soon.

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• 2009 Cappellano Barolo Piè Rupestris Otin Fiorin (Gabutti)

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Served double blind by John. A classy, traditional Barolo with a bit of age (I guessed 2008). Blood orange, plum, cassis and cigar box on the bouquet. On palate, beautiful evolution. Refined and precise. Rounded and integrated. Preserved cherries, tar and tobacco. Pleasurable on the night, but many years ahead of it, of course. Not highly scored due to the winemaker’s wishes.

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• 2018 White Castle Vineyard Pinot Noir Reserve 87 Points

  United Kingdom, Wales

  Served double blind by SoJo. Now, here’s some fun for wine options! … Deep dark colour. A bouquet of glossy black cherries, black raspberries and cola. A silky and sleek palate of juniper berries, dark cherries and plums, with off-putting suggestions of fruit sweetness. A very New World character but not, clearly, NZ or Australian. A pinot noir from the Americas? Napa Valley? No, Wales! Who knew? There followed a long debate of whether Wales is New or Old World in pinot … In all seriousness, a credible, fully ripe but very straightforward modern-style pinot noir.

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• 2010 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Pignan Reserve 95 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Served double blind by Maciej. A beautiful, luxurious bouquet of plums and tons of ripe berry fruit, spices, dark chocolate and cigar box. Sweet fruit on palate with structure, power and some leathery development. Most tasters had this wine as New World – due to the fruit volume and scale – syrah but I thought it a bold, large scaled, seamless French wine. All clear on the reveal. A classy 100% Grenache Rayas, at the beginning of its optimal drinking plateau. Superb! 95+.

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• 1998 Domaine de Montille Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens 95 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru

  Initially served double blind. Another enticing bouquet but this of an evolved and resolved (20+ years old) Burgundy. Cedar, old tobacco, preserved red fruit … so complex with spices, herbs, warm earth and rust. On palate, rounded red fruit, tilled dry soil, smoky barbequed game meats and rust. To me, de Montille Rugiens with 20+ years from a good vintage is one of the great, quintessential red Burgundy experiences, as here. These wines can sit on their optimal drinking plateaus for many years (in this case, I'd be confident it will continue to drink well until at least 2025).

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• 2008 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Goulots Vieille Vigne 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Served double blind in a pair with the 2010 by Andrew and Thierry. The recent Magnum Society Fourrier tasting has got attendees interested in revisiting some of the Gevrey 1ers. It was not too hard to see the Fourrier and Les Goulot signatures in these two wines. I picked the vintage here, due to the 2008 acids. The acids have now receded and integrated but leave their signature. The classic Fourrier Goulots bouquet of red cherries, chalk dust, earth and cocoa powder. On palate, more sparkling, racy acidity than with the 2010. Lighter bodied. Red cherries, raspberries, minerals and orange rind. At its peak now. To drink in the next few years.

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• 2010 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Goulots Vieille Vigne 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Served double blind in a pair with the 2008 by Andrew and Thierry. Perfumed with dark spices, violets and other florals, red cherries and raspberries. On palate, richer and fuller than the 2008, I guessed it as a 2009. Intense, assertive acids, just better balanced by the fruit and tannins than for the 2008. Both lovely cherry and berry fruit and limestone minerality. Better now and, I think, will cellar longer (to 2030+?). Superb. 94+.

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• 2010 Faiveley Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Combe aux Moines 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Served double blind, Mark paired the two Combe aux Moines. A nose of black cherries, some flinty reduction, smoky bacon fat, earth and a touch of barnyard. On palate, savoury, mineral, not overtly fruity. Clean and well made, in modern style but made sympathetically, without too much, heavy-handed oak for the fruit. I did not pick the link with Mark’s second wine and pick any of 2010, new (post-2007) style Faiveley or Combe aux Moines. On the reveal, it’s a great comparison in showing Faiveley not making as great a Combe aux Moines from an excellent vintage. Still, it’s a very good 1er, no hurry to consume. 92+.

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• 2010 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Combe aux Moines Vieille Vigne 95 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Served double blind, Mark paired the two Combe aux Moines. Classic Fourrier Combe aux Moines. Largely aromatic black cherries, with spices, chalky minerals, dark florals and barbequed game meat. A lovely, seamless whole. Elegant and refined yet deep and powerful. And long, finishing on those chalky minerals. A little more sous bois evolution than the Faiveley. In my view, a literally great 1er. Now at, or near, its peak, I’d drink by 2027 – 2028. 95+.

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• 1984 Château Les Ormes de Pez 91 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe

  Served double blind. My problem with Bordeaux is how long they typically take to come around. The optimal drinking windows for recent releases of great Bordeaux seem usually to be outside of my expected lifetime. That’s why I love a Bordeaux like this from older, unheralded vintages. Clearly an early 1980s to early 1990s Bordeaux from a weaker vintage. Bricking, evolved colour. A bouquet of preserved red fruit, blood orange citrus, old leather, cigar box and mixed Asian spices. In the mouth, black cherry and blackberries, dried black fruit, straw, old leather couch and green olives. Leaner, below mid weight. What they used to call an Englishman’s claret. Loved it!

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• 2006 Esk Valley The Terraces 92 Points

  New Zealand, North Island, Hawke's Bay

  Served double blind, one pour. A bright, clean and serious New World take on a Bordeaux blend. Very good, drinking well, but it’ll cellar 10+ years from here easily. Malbec-predominant.

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• 2010 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Único 95 Points

  Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero

  Served double blind by Wilco. A brilliant wine! A rich and complex bouquet with spicy and floral perfumes, tobacco and black berry fruit, framed by creamy, vanillin oak (someone suggested American oak). On palate, powerful, ripe, rich and quite primary blackberry and blackcurrant fruit. Herby with cigar, liquorice and new leather. Serious structure, mouth presence and length. Approachable now but, on the reveal, drinking younger than 11 years old, to drink over the next two decades.

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• 2007 Domaine Bruno Clair Chambertin-Clos de Bèze 95 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru

  My wine decanted several hours before serving double blind. The same descriptors as in my last note a few months ago. Polished black berry and cherry fruit, earth and iron. Tight, leaner and structured with 2007 acidity. An excellent Grand Cru but still a little backward (for a supposedly lighter vintage) with serious tannins to integrate and resolve. (Some tasters however thought the Clos de Bèze was over-oaked). I (again) enjoyed it on the night but I’d recommend a hold until 2025+.

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• 2003 Domaine Fourrier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Gruenchers Vieille Vigne 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

  Served double blind by Mike. Appealing Chambolle red cherries and other bright, clean red berry fruit. Some cinnamon and other spices, cocoa and a little dried herbs development. Signature Fourrier sympathetic winemaking. Something I often see on 2003 red Burgundies, drinking younger (say 2006 – 2008) than would be expected. No sign of stereotypical 2003 stewed fruit, although I know Jean-Marie handled the heat of the vintage particularly well. Bright and clean red berry and cherry fruit. Very attractive but lacking the nuance and complexity needed for a bigger score. Drink before say 2025.

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• 2002 Domaine de L'Arlot Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos des Forêts St. Georges 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

  Served double blind by Larry. Larry is keen on his whole bunch, so this wine shouldn’t have been a surprise, and it was drinking very well, albeit probably close to the end of its prime life. Spices, iron filings, dry brush, earth, dried herbs, red cherry and raspberry aromas. Evolved and mellow. On entry to the palate, dry underbrush, savoury and dried herbal notes, with earth and ferric minerality. But there was still a core of sweet, rich red cherry and red currant fruit. Fruit, acids and tannins largely resolved and integrated. I guessed 2003 then 2002. To drink in the next few years. 92+.

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• 2003 Domaine René Engel Grands-Echezeaux 96 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru

  Served double blind, one pour by Mike. All class, clearly. A bouquet of lifted florals, reductive elements (close to a pop and pour), road tar and sleek black fruit. On palate, lots of rich, opulent fruit and spices. Palate coating and weighty. Mike is an advocate for quality 2003s arguing they just need more time in the cellar than cooler vintages. So it is here. No jammy or stewed fruit, the fruit sweet, and drinking a lot younger than 18 years old. Excellent – no hurry needed to drink this Grands-Echezeaux.

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