Bordeaux tasting - with a few pirates

Thanks to CT’rs bsumoba, WineBurrowingWombat, AaronMaxwell, FermentedBeast, sfwinelover1, dfcrutcher, and everyone else who contributed to good food, good wine, and good company. The BDX wines I most gravitated to were the ’19 l’Eglise Client, ’18 Pichon Lalande (which was a little fruity during the tasting but launched into orbit on day 2), 16 Cos d’Estournel, and ’10 Angelus (slightly boozy throughout on the tail, but the fruit was black and beautiful).

• 2017 Henri Bourgeois Sancerre d'Antan

  France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre

  A fairly typical showing, this was an easily forgotten opener next to the beautiful 2013 Cristal. I feel like this has lot a bit of speed since my last bottle(s). Fine and all, but kinda boring. Guava, grass, lemon drop, green apple, and lime flavors offer pleasurable but predictable passage along the palate. I mean, it’s good, but I don’t know what distinguishes it from the thousands of other decent Sauvignon Blancs. Last bottle. On to something else.

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• 2019 François Chidaine Montlouis-sur-Loire Les Bournais 92 Points

  France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Montlouis-sur-Loire

  This was a decent palate cleanser amongst the 15 or so BDX wines dominating the evening. Decent pep and only a short clip of sweetness, the Bournais has a bit more body than its sibling Baudoin, which tends to be a little drier and less sweet. This 2019 Bournais is far superior to the comparatively richer 2017; there are more similarities here to the 2018, though I don’t think the 2019 will ever get to the level of the 2018 by a long shot. The 2019 offers pleasant lychee, yellow and green citrus, a kiss of petrol, and wet limestone flavors. With time, this woke up a tad more and became fuller. I didn’t spend too much time with this wine, but I think it is a good effort despite my being less enthusiastic about it than the 2018 version. 91-92+-ish point range here. Drink now.

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• 2013 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut 97 Points

  France, Champagne

  I’ve written quite a bit on this, as have others. So, I’ll rely on my previous notes for the heavy lifting (I know, SUPER lazy of me). Suffice [it] to say this is a great bottle of Champagne; it’s my favorite Cristal in recent history almost primarily (I think) because of the 2013 vintage characteristics. The spine and acid are prevalent in ways that keep the frame from ever getting into doughy dadbod mode. Perlage is focused and fine, with a balanced carriage of spritely yellow citrus and white rock flavors that remind you this ain’t just some White Claw bubble spritz pounder. Sophistication lives here. I’m a fan, though I’m almost afraid to try the 2014 for fear it’ll be a bit more on the hoagie roll house style. Thanks to the overly generous CT’r bsumoba for kickin’ this down to get the party started off right.
  
  Drink now for the verve or hold for, well, I dunno, cuz you’re kinda supposed to I guess.

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• 2018 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  Lime and apple form a pinky-swear bond with lemon, saline, and river rock flavors to shape a Bougros that is along familiar lines for this producer across most recent vintages. The Bougros always has a nice body that I am drawn to, with contours that take the shrill out of its otherwise acidic encasement and provide just enough curvature that it is not robbed of its peppy and fresh Chablis typicity. Energy-wise, I’m happy where this ended up after a couple of hours. So, holding isn’t a mistake for those wondering what to do with bottles hiding in their cellars (or under their couches, respective, of course, to your monetary and laissez-faire achievements over the years and where you are able to store your juice). Fevre is a DIAM house, which always makes me happy. Hold a few years with confidence and see how this fills out. It may never be a BOOM! POW! BANG! Superman vs. The Ultra-Humanite type of performance, but these are consistently steady Eddies that offer committed quality with each vintage passing. These are also generally more approachable early on compared to their more torqued-up sibling Côte Bouguerots, which usually has more drive, sophistication, and focus, but isn’t as much an early drinker as the Bougros.

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• 2019 Armand Heitz Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières 96 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

  Jimmy Cricket on a crate of craziness this is a solid wine. Meursault is often good-not-great for me, mostly because of the fullness that can round-out the execution and make for a filled but often less energetic profile overall, with some producers in some vintages. However, Perrieres + Armand Heitz + 2019 vintage = Yes Please. It really is everything one might want in a Meursault: Bigger boned than many from the region, with a frame that leaves no question that it ain’t no couch-slouch, beautiful energy and spine, persistence to keep the senses yearning for more (especially after a few hours of BDX red wine palate-pounding), and a succulence that brings the fruit, flowers, and feldspar all to the front end of the flavor-push and upsurges into the type of finale I want in a white Burg. Controlled intensity and a complete delivery of flavor along the mid-palate, with a tail that tingles with acidity and drive.
  
  Other than most of the world telling everyone to hold 2019 white Burgs for a while cuz that’s what I guess the bibliophiles and Tony Robbins wine coaches tell you, I say a solid ‘whatever’ to that and open these today. It’s beautiful now, like, right now.

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• 2018 Château Montrose

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe

  This was one of those wines that seemed somewhat reluctant to express itself wholly and was perpetually stuck in the land of unreciprocating interest. No romanticism here….yet? I sensed dark fruit (potentially) but it laid on the palate like a piece of plywood. Unyielding and stiff, finishing angular and slightly barbed. Unlike a number of fruity and gushing (by BDX standards mind you) 2018s I’ve sampled lately, the Montrose came off kinda angry to me. What I supposed was minerality was forward-facing the entire time, with flecks of alcohol, blackberry seeds, and black currants (like those mini token ones they put in salads for some unknown reason that get stuck in your teeth all the time). Best bet: Leave this in a corner to watch The Handmaid’s Tale on a loop for the next twenty years so it can cry the hurt out of itself. For now, it’s a pouty Matthew Perry post-Friends success kind of dealio.

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• 1961 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  Having this 1961 next to its great, great grandson the 2018 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande was like watching Twins with hieroglyphic subtitles, or more accurately, looking at side-by-side then-and-now photos of Mickey Rourke. Having a not-fortified wine that clocks in at 61 years old is pretty darn cool, especially given the fact that it was not flawed (aside from obvious age-related progressions) and was otherwise stable and sound throughout the entire tasting. The only thing that required some algebraic acrobatics was the cork. Thankfully the Ah-So in conjunction with some yoga wrist whittling and elbow genuflecting made for a clean pull (eventually) and a tidy pour.
  
  I mean, it’s kinda not wine at this point, but it kinda is. It reminded me a bit of Christmas as a kid at my grandparents’ house. Sherry and warm apple cider flavors abound, with cinnamon stick, toasted hazelnuts, dusty blanket, and cedar notes making for a rather expected flavor profile, but with surprising energy given its stage of development, or devolvement. Hey, if you love old wines, then this is still a performer in many senses. If you like fruit, you might be about 35 years too late. But if you love listening to Roy Orbison “Crying” while thumbing through Aunt Edith’s photo albums with the smell of Lipton’s Onion Soup mix wafting through the room, then the ’61 Lalande will bring you nostalgia the likes of which you never imagined. It’s a warm apple pie kind of experience.
  
  And to be quite frank, my mind went from, “Hey this actually isn’t undrinkable,” to “Hey, this is actually good.” Now, I admittedly don’t long for this sort of flavor profile, and this wine didn’t necessarily change that stance for me. However, if this was the only wine at the table, I wouldn’t be mad at it. Bust out a roasted honey ham and Cuban Cohiba and you’re all set. A special experience to try this wine. Geek-central alert!

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• 2018 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 97 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  At first pass, this was super fruity and almost too accessible. The edges were round and it was displaying a predominantly red-fruited cherry-berry profile (not always my favorite). However, as I kept coming back to this wine over the course of a few hours, it started to both deepen and attain better focus. The fruit became darker and more expansive, while even-better holding the line in frame and direction. It also started to present an elegance on the finish that initially went from a bit globular and even over-opulent to chic and cultured. On the day of this tasting, I would have put it in a conservative 93-94-ish point range.
  
  Yet, I was fortunate enough to retain this bottle on Day 2, and it was an absolute kick in the pants. It was still very expressive but got a bit serious and gothic on me. Dark purple and inky in color, with blackberry, coffee, bitter chocolate, and spice notes firing out of the glass. Was this the same wine?! Of course, BDX in its most typical fickle and frustrating manner, decided to fully show up to the party a day late, when now ya’ll will only have my word to go by to attest for its wonder. It was certainly good on the first day (but I wasn’t looking to load up on it in the future or anything at that point), but I was captivated by it on day two. 97++ points on the second day.
  
  As with all things BDX, best advice is to hold. I’ll leave it to the palm readers to speculate on how long and when it will sleep and wake up and go back to sleep and rub its eyes and shut down and become horrible and then become awesome and then tank and then blossom and then it’ll be 2063 and I’ll be in a cryogenic chamber and then………..

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• 2005 Vieux Château Certan 94 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

  Both the 2010 and 2005 VCC were bumping ‘We Got the Funk’ more than any of the other wines at the table. Not surprisingly, this 2005 carried a greater display of the heady old world profile over the 2010. The visual alone let you know it has some age on it, with some bricking on the rim and a red-orange hue encompassing the darker red cherry center. On the palate, leather, red currant, chicken skin, cedar, and plum notes make for a medium-bodied delivery, finishing slightly horizontal and hushed. I did find a hovering complexity here, one that really took well to the fare that I kept munching on throughout the tasting (I know, bad taster). This wine and the cassoulet were beautiful together. Also, the freshness on this wine was not sleepy-eyed by any means and stayed relatively consistent throughout the evening. Can it age further? Sure, but that my friend depends wholly on your stylistic predilection for “younger” or “older” wines.
  
  I know there is a fair amount of BDX folks that, 1.) frown on me using the acronym-ish “BDX” reference in the first place, and 2.) think that there is no such thing as a top BDX (ya, I’ll keep doin’ it) whose cork should be pulled inside 25 years. For both of those things, I’ll just say that ain’t me. If you won’t lose your sanity at the thought of drinking a VCC before it’s 20th birthday, then I say drink this ’05 now. If you’re waiting for it to turn into a tawny port pumpkin, then hold for another 3,650 days.

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• 2010 Vieux Château Certan 95 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

  Notably less in the funk locality than the 2005 VCC, this 2010 displayed a red berry-meets-cedar profile that was further complimented by some darker attributes, adding to the perception of depth and intensity. Five years of youth showed some flex when compared to its older brother, a concentration that I personally appreciated. More meatiness here with the 2010 as well. Once again, this is a great food wine, and I found myself with a bigger smile with this in my glass more so if my other hand had a hunk of a pork bun clenched among my fingers. The finish offered a bit of spiciness, too, which was a welcoming accompaniment to the berry core. Still, I interpret this as more of an old-school style for Pomerol, juxtaposing it with the likes of Lafleur or l’Eglise-Clinet. This VCC reminded me more of a classy Client, but with a couple more layers.

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• 2016 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou 93 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

  This was wound a bit tight tonight in my opinion, never fully expanding or offering up the goods. The 2018 Ducru served next to it was by far more expressive and giving, especially on the front end of immediate flavor and intensity. This 2016 was primary and linear most of the tasting, peekabooing here and there, but mostly hiding behind a firm shoulder-shrugging of tannins and bitter berry fruit. A wine to hold for a while if possible. In wine sage terms, this appeared shut down to me. I don’t know if a decanting defibrillator might have woken it up or not. This would have been a wine to sample again on a second (third?) day.

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• 2018 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou 94 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

  Much more expressive than the 2016, the 2018 Ducru wasn’t the belle of the ball for me necessarily, but it was certainly not in booboo mood the way its 2-year-older brother was behaving. That said, it was still a little reluctant initially, but started to gain some momentum after a few hours and some vigorous swirling. Classical red fruited, with some cedar and spice, and even hints or orange rind that quickly disappeared over the wash of cherry and red currant fruit. Ducru is always an even-keeled kind of wine for me. I like them, but I can’t seem to fully bearhug my way to becoming completely enamored with them. I would certainly be interested in trying this wine in 10 years or so, but of course would fear it would either be shut down or have turned into some of the other Ducrus from the 80’s and 90’s, of which I wasn’t a huge fan. All in all, I liked this wine and felt it just needed time. As mentioned, it was just starting to rev up by the end of the night. 93-94? points.

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• 1996 Château Léoville Las Cases 94 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

  This was drinking rather beautifully, perhaps much in part to its handler’s decanting protocols prior to arrival. Bravo for that! Medium bodied flavors of red raspberries, cedar, earth, old cinnamon stick, plum skin, and iron parallel notes of unsmoked cigar, leather, and torched orange peel. Balls up a bit on the finish, with a firmness that keeps it in classical mode, not allowing the fruit (what remains of it) to fully give way. I sensed a slight bit of funk here, but nothing that didn’t blow off with some swirling in the glass.
  
  The 2015 Cases was served beside it, which I personally favored, though the 2015 was pretty strait-laced for most of the evening.

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• 2015 Château Léoville Las Cases 95 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

  Linear, primary, tannic, and a little annoyed (or maybe that was me being annoyed at it), the 2015 was a wine I had Coravin’d the day prior to sample it to see just where it was at. Peeved was where it was at then. The next day, I popped the cork a few hours before the tasting event, recorked it, shook it up a bit, and left it open in the bottle in hopes it might shock it to life. I feared decanting it might shut it completely down. By the time of the event, it had started to open up a bit more, with bitter blackberry, black currant, dusty spice, and river rock notes peeking out. The bottle of this I had earlier in the month seemed much more red-fruited. This bottle had black fruit, but also maintained a classical profile with bits of cedar and red-currant entering the picture. As my previous note mentions, this is a wine that should benefit with a bit of age. It is begrudgingly starting to open up. Profile-wise, I preferred this 2015 to the 1996 Cases next to it, but they were both good for different reasons.
  
  By day two and three on this same bottle, the leftovers had completely shut down. It’s best performance was on the night of the tasting toward the end of the evening. This wasn’t a showstopper overall, but it has a sophistication that I’m drawn to. 95-ish+ points from me.

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• 2019 Château L'Eglise-Clinet 98 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

  This was probably my wine of the night. It’s just so darn yummy and expressive, with a spine that is so focused and intense without overpowering the fruit or the focus. Black and beautiful fruit that is pure and powerful. The more O2 this thing ate, the stronger it became, like a purple Pac Man gobbling up power pellets. This was the only wine that was dumped in a decanter, and it was a total benefit to the way in which it rewarded over the course of the evening. Blackberries, crushed flowers, black minerality, fresh soil, and an electric purple plum thing that accentuated the persistence for days. A great finish that far outshined its peers.
  
  Of course, as I write these very words, I can already anticipate the comments, “You better drink now, cuz this vintage is gonna shut down soon enough and you’ll have to find something else to gush over for the next decade or more!” Aaaaaaand this is where I have a “problem” with some of ‘these wines.’ I absolutely hate loving a wine now and hating it in two years. I know some wines can go through sheepish phases, but then there’s those fuming mad wines that just throw the bouquet in your face, slam the front door on you, and then call the cops and have you arrested. So, along those lines, guzzle these now if you decided to shell out the dough (I guess when the winemaker passes, it rockets up prices to Van Gogh status), or hide them until the 2036 general election – Omri Ram for president!

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• 2016 Château Cos d'Estournel 97 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe

  Consistent. Consistent. Consistent. The slow build on this wine over time really spoke to me. I kept coming back to this bottle. It wasn’t too flashy. It wasn’t too classic. It was a beautiful hybrid of old and new worlds. Purple plum and black raspberry saunter arm-in-arm with deep cherry, currant, cedar, and Christmas spice notes. The equilibrium of flavor and the balanced expansion really take this to the next level. A tick up from my last bottle back on 8/30/2019. One of the few 2016s I’ve had recently that aren’t crawling into a corner, the Cos is a drink now (a decant might have made this even more alluring) or hold for another decade and check it out then. I’ll try to hold my remaining bottles until then…. Good luck with that though…

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• 2010 Château Angélus 97 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

  Black fruit. Black rock. Black fruit. Black rock… and a bit of booze on the tail that didn’t let up (ok, so a point or two off for that). But otherwise, this was totally in my wheelhouse. The profile is a midnight demon rider with a rock star appeal that will make classical BDX villages blush and Napa flavor hounds ready to start the party. It’s pretty darn chiseled, too, with a serious frame and intensity that compliments the headbanger core fruit. A bitter cacao flavor comes to the concert and elevates the execution and complexity yet another tick up. The acid is on-point, distracted only for a second on the tail by traces of alcohol that ever so slightly overpower the propulsion of the otherwise long finish. This was perhaps my favorite flavor profile of the night, though the ’19 l’Eglise-Clinet was also a fabulous neuvo White Zombie to which I was all-aboard. To do again, I’d decant this puppy and let the perception of alcohol blow off a bit more. Other than that, it’s the one BDX you might actually bring to Vegas.

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• 2015 Château Figeac

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

  The 2015 Figeac was stuck in the “friend zone” during the entire tasting. Unripe blackberry, currant, and cedar notes delivered in a superficial and flat plane of flavor, without ever reaching much expansion or depth. Maybe CT’r bsumoba, who had the scraps to take home on this bottle, had a chance to see if this ever woke up. For me, it was not a compelling Figeac in its current state.

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• 2000 Château Léoville Poyferré

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

  I just could not get a feel for this wine at all. I wouldn’t even know how to score it. It really just offered next to nothing in the fruit department and was overly linear and strict. It wasn’t abrasive by any means, but it just never woke up. Whether it is dead forever or in some catatonic state, there was no budging here.

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• 2016 Château Belair-Monange 93 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

  This seemed to be in a less than affable mood for most of the evening. On one hand, I think there were not only other better showing wines, but also, simply better wines that the Belair-Monange just couldn’t keep up with. I last had this wine nearly three years ago, and it was quite the exuberant showing. However, and like many 2016 BDXs, this seems to be in shy guy mode. What elements were showing themselves to some degree, were flattened out by a beam of acidity and frame. The fruit was basically not as expressive as I had hoped. The finish showed more alcohol than fruit flavor. Hold this 2016. This is nowhere near the 2015, and is kinda at the lower end of the scoring range that I have previously given for the 2018. It’s not a weak wine necessarily, but it was kind of a weak comparative showing. It wasn’t the 2000 Poyferre, but it was light years away from the top performers in the lineup.

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• 2019 Maybach Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Materium

  USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville

  Bringing this to a BDX tasting is like having Marilyn Manson as an opening act at a Celine Dion concert. Heavy metal devil horns brings the ripe fruit, the heat, and… well, the ripe fruit. Yet, this might have been one of the most balanced Materiums I’ve had in some time. The acidity kept the core moving without ever pausing too long to become burdensomely heavy or syrupy. I mean, it’s heavy and syrupy, but it wasn’t stuck in its tracks or so sticky I couldn’t pry my palate from the top of my mouth necessarily.
  
  It is, however, pretty much like chewing on a Tootsie Roll immediately after having a sashimi scallop. Did I like it? Heck ya I liked it… but I could feel my face melting as the sweat of a thousand shames leached from the pores of my past regrets with every sip. Blackberry pie, blackberry crust, blackberry syrup, blackberries, and black berries. It’s an elixir laxative for King Kong’s 18-year-old grape-ape son on a heavy Taco Tuesday.

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• 2014 Tusk Estates Cabernet Sauvignon

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Opened at the end of the evening, which is almost always a mistake in terms of service, the Tusk wasn’t the total blowout like the SQN mighty Z cocktail, but it was clearly in need of about 3-5++ hours of decanting. The jam factor was prevalent, as was the booze. It displayed more brash power and angularity than the Materium, which had better contours but was syrupier and more saturated.
  
  I know this wine is polarizing, and there are those who have written this producer off completely in search of more “refined” animals (I can’t necessarily blame anyone there, as I have had a wandering eye in this regard as well), but it’s a Melka Napa Cab type of experience that just needs more time, in my opinion. I wasn’t exactly singing the praises of this wine and its performance that night, but I can at least blame some of that on my PnP delivery of it. No excuses, however. So ya, it was too boozy for me at the time and should be a better showstopper with better service. Strong structure. Strong fruit. Finesse is missing here. I liked this better in 2019 (but again, service was much better then). I do wonder what sort of longevity this kind of wine has. I’ll hold remaining bottles for at least three more years. We shall see if it implodes or calms down.

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• 2018 Sine Qua Non Syrah Ziehharmonika

  USA, California, Central Coast

  Too early. Period. PnP was a total joke: hot and brash. It wasn’t a hot ‘mess’ necessarily, but it teetered on being completely chaotic and vulgar. It was mad at me and I was mad at it. “Stop embarrassing me in front of my friends mom!!”
  
  Here’s the part where others might say to themselves, “Really?!” And I answer, “Yes, I swear!” …So, I kept the remaining juice (about half the bottle) at a solid 50 degrees for 24 hours in its uncorked bottle. I grabbed a healthy pour in a phat ‘ol Riedel stem, and let it sit for another hour in the glass. Boom. Magic. Right back to where I needed it to be and what I remember it being back in early 2021 when I last had this wine. Blackberry and blueberry goodness, with charcoal, railroad tie, and violets. The perception of booze was gone… Ya I said it…gone. What remained was still a biggin wine, but it wasn’t a jerkface bruiser. Finished slightly chewy but with a textural finesse that was almost tender and silky.
  
  What a weird transformation. It was one of those, “It’s a totally different wine,” type of experience. I only wish I had the forethought to open this the day before, though regardless, it certainly doesn’t belong anywhere near a BDX tasting. I don’t know what psychological Freudian id-ego-superego malfunction I have that compels me to pull wines that I know have no business being pulled just for the sake of pulling that wine.

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