SAC: 2002 Retrospective

I'll admit that I was both intrigued and a bit skeptical when I heard the theme of this tasting. To me the 2002s have always been some of the most tight and unready to drink champagnes. I believe they have amazing potential, but most of what I've experienced has been shy and quiet and not giving up much. Then again, the chance to get to do a side by side comparison across so many great producers is too good to pass up.

Big caveat - I appear to have completely misplaced my book with the notes so these are all impressions and it was a lot of champagne so the later impressions are a bit lighter than the early ones.

• 2002 Paul Bara Champagne Grand Cru Comtesse Marie de France

  France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

  First champagne of the night and of the original five the one that I went back to at the end to see if I really did like it as much as I thought or if it was just the benefit of being the first glass of champagne in my glass in the evening. This is good. It's more of that pear/apple style where it's a touch lighter and the orchard fruits and clean in style. But really drinking quite well. Something to keep an eye out for in the future. Changed the way I see this producer.

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• 2002 Ruinart Champagne Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs

  France, Champagne

  A few year (one year?) ago I called this fresh and that's probably still fair but it's starting to get some more toasty notes too. Very classic style of champagne. Drinks nicely.

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• 2002 A. R. Lenoble Champagne Grand Cru Gentilhomme Blanc de Blancs

  France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

  A wine that split people. I understand the concern about it - it's more oxidative and intense in style. Not my favorite, but I imagine it can appeal to some folks and it is different which sometimes in champagne I appreciate.

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• 2002 Lanson Champagne Noble Cuvée de Lanson Blanc de Blancs Brut

  France, Champagne

  Classic and easy to drink. Just a touch of brioche.

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• 2002 Piper-Heidsieck Champagne Cuvée Rare

  France, Champagne

  I have this theory that this is a wine that I'm just going to love when it has enough time. It's got that little bit of extra sweetness left over that I think ages well (reminds me of the old Cristal style). Still quite primary at this stage though.

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Salade Verte with Vinaigrette Provencale

• 2002 Delamotte Champagne Blanc de Blancs Millésimé

  France, Champagne

  Such a very classic style of champagne with all of the brioche and slightly buttery and lovely and delicious.

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• 2002 Pierre Péters Champagne Grand Cru Cuvée Speciale Blanc de Blancs Les Chetillons

  France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

  I recently won one of these at auction and so was extra excited to get to try it here since it's turned into a bit of a unicorn wine. It was lovely. Drinking very bright and openly and yet I still think years will help it. Ours is going to wait for awhile but very fun to get a chance to check in.

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• 2002 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut

  France, Champagne

  Bright and slightly apple in style and more open than you might think although still quite young. An enjoyable wine for sure.

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Wild Mushroom Risotto, grana padano

(for the lucky ones without the mushrooms and with more cheese!)

• 2002 Tarlant Champagne L'Etincelante

  France, Champagne

  Tasting more of this producer recently who has almost prematurely aged wines (which can work for me since I like older wine). This was in that same vein. Probably the most ready to drink of the group.

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• 2002 Bollinger Champagne R.D. Extra Brut

  France, Champagne

  Classic style of champagne. Again quite young and maybe a bit closed up. More toasty and brioche style. Very structured. Lots of time left.

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• 2002 Dom Pérignon Champagne

  France, Champagne

  I remember this being reasonably more evolved than I expected given our tasting last December where the '02s were very far from ready. It's good and toasty and still tight and young but more giving than I expected.

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Red Wine-Braised Short Rib, pommes puree

• 2002 Egly-Ouriet Champagne Grand Cru Brut Millésimé

  France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

  One of the ones I was really excited about. Love this producer. Wasn't disappointed. This is a straight up quality wine.

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• 2002 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut

  France, Champagne

  Excited since we just got a few mags of this wine to see how it's going. Still quite young but such great stuffing to it. Could just be me but get more of the Pinot and spicy and all of that in it. Great.

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• 2002 Deutz Champagne Cuvée William Deutz

  France, Champagne

  A bit overshadowed in what is a very strong flight (probably the best flight of the night). Still drinks nicely but young.

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Apple Galette with almond frangipane

• 2002 Duval-Leroy Champagne Femme de Champagne

  France, Champagne

  Got a bit lost in the mix and mingle phase of the night when everyone is going to check in with each other. Wish I had paid a bit more intention. My impression is I really liked it.

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• 2002 Billecart-Salmon Champagne Cuvée Nicolas François

  France, Champagne

  I was excited to try this one as I don't have as much experience with it but feel like I always like it. The best I can say is I remember liking it again last night, but it got a bit lost in the rush of the last course and everyone starting to mix and mingle and connect and so less focus on the champagne.

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The biggest surprise for me was the Paul Bara which is a producer that I've always thought was totally fine but this was a really great example. Of course the classics showed well - Pierre Peters, Krug, Egly. I think it was probably a mixed bag where some were opening up a lot more than I thought and some were perhaps still a big shy.