Another great wine dinner with Bernard Burtschy

My good friend, Bernard was in town and Bijan organized another exceptional wine dinner. Eleven of us got together at Taberna del Alabardero to drink a lot of great wines. The restaurant did an excellent tasting menu. The wine service was simply perfect.

Billecart-Salmon showed exceptionally once again. I need to buy them.

• 2008 Billecart-Salmon Champagne Grand Cru Cuvée Louis Salmon 95 Points

  France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

  Medium expressive nose displaying slightly coiled yellow citrus fruit with a hint of white, lemon curd, lemon oil, granny smith, a hint of brioche, spicy spices and limestone. Very good concentration, slightly coiled yellow citrus fruit, very fine medium generous mousse, elegant yet energetic and precise, bright acidity, strong limestone mineral, and a seamless long yellow citrus fruit driven finish with a hint of brioche at the end. This nicely expresses the elegant yet energetic 08 vintage character. It is a Champagne equivalent of a Dauvissat Chablis.

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• 2002 Billecart-Salmon Champagne Cuvée Nicolas François 97 Points

  France, Champagne

  Expressive nose displaying concentrated sweet yellow and white fruit, lemon curd, sous apple, tarte tatin, white flowers, honey and mineral. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of concentrated fruit, rich, dense and deeply toned but also good precision and balance, very fine generous mousse, bright acidity, strong limestone mineral, and a long rich concentrated yellow and white fruit driven finish with cinnamon and brioche at the end. This has developed beautifully. With air. It starts to display elegant fruit. This is a big scale, deeply toned Champagne that is drinking beautifully. No need to hurry.

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I was really impressed by the Marc Morey, so fresh and mineral.

• 2009 Domaine Marc Morey & Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru En Virondot 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru

  Expressive nose displaying perfectly ripe yellow fruit, lemon curd, honey, honeysuckle, a touch of oak/vanilla, spicy spices and crushed rock. Perfectly integrated palate, nicely layered yellow citrus fruit, although ripe, cool, pure and harmonious, perfect amount of acidity, strong limestone mineral, and a long ripe but cool yellow fruit driven mineral finish. Bernard educates us that the vineyard is situated at the top. This is drinking incredibly well.

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• 2009 Domaine Thomas Morey Bâtard-Montrachet 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

  Medium expressive nose displaying dense yellow fruit, lemon curd, cream brulee, candied ginger, a hint of oak, spicy spices and mineral. Excellent concentration, slightly coiled concentrated rich yellow fruit, rich, oily and powerful, medium acidity, strong mineral, and a long concentrated yellow fruit driven finish. This is a big scale wine that is drinking well.

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• 1992 Chartron et Trébuchet Corton-Charlemagne 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

  Ideally cellared bottle. Bright light gold. Beautifully mature nose, sweet mature neutral yellow fruit, honey, vanilla, oyster jus, oyster shell, butterscotch, sweet spices and limestone. Fully integrated palate, generous neutral yellow fruit, still showing good freshness, round and sweet, medium acidity, strong mineral, and a long sweet yellow fruit driven mineral finish with a hint of smoke at the end. The best example from a case I purchased at auction.

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• 1999 Lucien Le Moine Bonnes Mares Flawed

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

  Murky brownish color with subdued fruit. Prune, liqueur and dirty damp cellar. Very masculine expression. It is clearly advanced, so I check the cork. The cork has shrunk and is soaked almost to the top.

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• 2001 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays 95 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru

  Beautifully mature nose displaying mature red fruit, raspberry preserve, strawberry, noticeable sous bois, raw champignons de Paris, cinnamon, dark spices, and earth. Medium concentration, Fully integrated palate, nicely layered mature red fruit, warm and round, medium acidity, strong earthy mineral, noticeable but fine tannins, and a seamless long mature red fruit driven finish. This has developed beautifully. The palate is slightly masculine and structured. Really beautiful nose.

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• 2005 Faiveley Chambertin-Clos de Bèze 95 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru

  Initially a bit muted fruit then opens up. Expressive nose displaying super concentrated red and black fruit, raspberry, blackberry, black cherry, cappuccino, light caramel, sweet spices, cedar and earth. Exceptional concentration, layers upon layers of concentrated red and black fruit, unctuous and rich but also silky and fluid, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, still showing strong slightly coarse tannins, and a long concentrated red and black fruit driven finish. This is a big scale super structured Beze that still needs a decade or more. The fruit is concentrated and clean so this may become a very special wine one day.

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The resemblances were uncanny. The 95 and 96 showed brilliantly.

• 1976 Château Latour Grand Vin Flawed

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  Some think this is corked. Strong dirty damp smell that I often find in the 70s Bordeaux. Either way, not terribly interesting and unpleasant.

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• 1999 Château Latour Grand Vin 95 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  Expressive nose displaying generous but soft black fruit, subtle cassis, blackberry, rose, cedar, strong lead pencil and earth. Medium concentration, nicely layered generous black fruit, soft, round and warm, good detail and balance, and a long sweet black fruit driven finish with cedar and lead pencil at the end. Since the fruit is soft and subtle, lead pencil and cedar expression are very pronounced. This reminds me the 99 Mouton that I had recently. This and the 94 are clearly less concentrated than the other two Latours of the flight. I find this to be a classic Latour and a classic claret and really enjoy them. This is ready to go.

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• 1994 Château Latour Grand Vin 93 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  Medium expressive nose displaying sweet black fruit, crème de cassis, blackberry, strong bell pepper/green, lead pencil, cedar and earth. Very good concentration, generous sweet black fruit, soft and round initially, medium acidity, earthy mineral, slightly dry tannins and a medium long sweet black fruit driven finish with cedar at the end. Perhaps the least concentrated wine of the flight. Slightly greener than the 99 and a bit more angular, hence I prefer the 99 a bit more.

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• 1995 Château Latour Grand Vin 97 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  Expressive youthful nose displaying concentrated ripe black fruit, crème de cassis, blackberry concentrate, roasted fruit ,floral cabernet, espresso, light caramel, vanilla/oak, lead pencil, spearmint, eucalyptus, cedar and limestone. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of concentrated sweet black fruit, rich and dense but also silky, nice balance, medium acidity, strong mineral, noticeable silky tannins, and a long concentrated sweet black fruit driven finish with spearmint at the end. This gives the most modern impression of the flight. It is always fascinating to compare the 95 and the 96. The 95 shows richer and darker fruit where the 96 shows greater finesse and detail. Although enjoyable, this is still very youthful. This can easily improve for a couple more decades or more.

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• 1996 Château Latour Grand Vin 98 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  Classic refined nose displaying perfectly ripe black and blue fruit, crème de cassis, blackberry, blueberry concentrate, strong lea pencil, cedar, dark flowers, dark spices and earth. Excellent concentration, very finely layered pure concentrated black fruit, powerful yet very precise and detailed, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, very fine tannins and a seamless long pure black fruit driven finish with lead pencil at the end. This beautifully demonstrates the classic 96 vintage character. IMO, the most classic vintage going back to the 80s.

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I really liked the 00 Pichon Lalande. The 61 was incredibly once again.

• 2000 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 94 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  Expressive nose displaying concentrated red fruit with a black, strawberry, red cherry compote, a hint of crème de cassis, floral cabernet, noticeable green, sweet spices, lead pencil and mineral. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of generous red fruit, rich and dense but also fluid, bright acidity, good mineral, and a long concentrated red fruit driven finish with jalapeno and lead pencil at the end. I actually enjoy the green expression.

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• 1989 Château Clinet 93 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

  Medium expressive nose, generous but soft red fruit, plum and strawberry, sous bois, caramel and earth. Very good concentration, warm and round, medium acidity, earthy mineral, and a medium long finish. This particular bottle is fully matured. According to Neal, significant bottle variation. How the 89 Clinet developed reminds me the 90 Beausejour Duffau a bit, i.e. evolved fast and inconsistent.

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• 1982 Château Haut-Brion 95 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  Fully mature nose displaying warm red fruit with a hint of black, strawberry jam, cherry, plum, a hint of crème de cassis, leather, tobacco, ash, sweet spices, leather and earth. There is a hint of Brett that is not terribly bothersome. Fully integrated palate, nicely layered mature red, warm, fluid and soft, bright acidity, medium mineral, and a long sweet red fruit driven finish. This is a perfectly mature example.

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• 1986 Château Margaux Flawed

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

  VA and Brett. The cork is a bit dried and soaked to the top. Apparently purchased upon release and ideally cellared. Perhaps it was heat damaged during the original shipping. According to Bernard, this is not atypical. I have had a number of youthful bottles in the past.

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• 1961 Château Ausone 98 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

  Perfectly mature nose displaying incredible sweet mature black fruit, subtle blackberry, plum, light caramel, leather, strong cedar, black truffle, rose and earth. Perfectly integrated palate, beautiful sweet black fruit, rich but soft, fluid and warm, perfect amount of acidity and strong earthy mineral, and a seamless long generous black fruit driven finish with cedar at the end. There is something incredible when Bordeaux wines are ideally cellared for five decades or more.

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• 2000 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou 96 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

  Youthful expressive nose displaying concentrated red and black fruit, red currant, red cherry, a hint of crème de cassis, lead pencil, light caramel, a hint of cedar and earth. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of concentrated red fruit, rich and generous, bright acidity, strong earthy mineral, and a long sweet concentrated red fruit driven finish with lead pencil at the end. This is drinking beautifully but can easily improved for a couple more decades. Pretty impressive showing.

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I was pleasantly surprised by how classic the L'Ermites were. The 98 Chave was singing!

• 1998 M. Chapoutier Ermitage l'Ermite 96 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  Expressive complex nose displaying perfectly ripe black fruit, blackberry, black cherry, licorice, coffee, strong black pepper, rare steak, tapenade, garrigue, clove/smoke and crushed rocks. Excellent concentration, finely layered perfectly ripe black fruit, silky and oily, excellent balance, freshness and detail, bright acidity, strong mineral, and a long generous black fruit driven finish with a hint of black pepper at the end. This is a pleasant surprise. Although clean, this is a classic Hermitage that is drinking beautifully. If tasted blind, I may guessed as Chave. If you think these top Chapoutier hermitages are too modern, you outta give the 98 l'Ermite a chance.

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• 1998 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage 97 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  This has developed beautifully since I last had almost a decade ago. Perfectly mature complex nose displaying generous red fruit, red cherry, cherry pie, mocha, tapenade, garrigue, charred rare steak, cinnamon, clove and mineral. Perfectly integrated palate, very finely layered generous red fruit, excellent balance and detail, fluid and weightless, bright acidity, strong mineral, and a seamless long sweet red fruit driven finish with blood and tapenade at the end. This is drinking perfectly.

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• 1986 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Turque 94 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

  Fully matured nose displaying warm red fruit, strawberry, a hint of cherry compote, leather, grilled fat, caramel, tapenade and earth. There is a hint of dirty damp cellar that blows off. Fully mature palate, generous soft red fruit, soft, sweet and round, medium acidity and mineral, and a medium to long soft red fruit driven finish. Drinking nicely but no need to wait.

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• 2001 M. Chapoutier Ermitage l'Ermite 95 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  Expressive nose displaying youthful red and black fruit, red and black cherry, blackberry, roasted fruit, lavender, black pepper, tapenade and mineral. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of generous red and black fruit, rich and oily but also displaying beautiful balance and detail, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and a seamless long generous red and black fruit driven finish. The resemblance to the 98 is uncanny but seems a bit more youthful and concentrated.

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The 89 Yquem was impressive. I really enjoyed the 81 Rieussec.

• 1989 Château d'Yquem 97 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

  Expressive nose displaying rich opulent yellow fruit, apricot, dry mango, yellow peach, candied ginger, saffron, botrytis, crème brulee. Honey and mineral. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of rich yellow fruit, dense and intense but also showing very good balance and detail, bright acidity, strong mineral, and a long sweet yellow fruit driven finish with saffron at the end. This youthful example can easily improve for a few more decades becoming lighter and more tertiary.

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• 1981 Château Rieussec 93 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

  Fully mature nose displaying subtle delicate yellow fruit, clementine, a hint of pineapple, apricot, honey, light caramel, sweet spices and limestone. Very precise and elegant palate, good balance and harmony, medium acidity and mineral, and a long sweet yellow fruit driven finish. This lighter style of Rieussec is drinking beautifully.

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A great time was had by all.