Rhone Candidate dinner - Hermitage Theme

Funnily enough I’ve sponsored a bunch of folks into the society but have only ever made my own candidate dinner (perhaps because there was no choice on that one). Fun to get to see it from the other side. Excellent job. Well thought out menu and pairings.

Alas I did not record the starters but there were lots of tasty bites and some of my favorite food of the meal

• 2021 Laurent Fayolle Hermitage Blanc Les Diognières

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  New producer for me but sounds like someone who is getting some buzz as others at the table knew them. A great young white rhone - lots of white stone fruits and white floral and very bright and fresh but with a definite backbone to it. A wine that enjoyed having some small bite food pairings.

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Mushroom Cappucino
Sweet potato / Madeira reduction

(I actually had carrots with a bit of citrus which went quite nicely with the wine)

• 1996 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Blanc De L'Orée

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  We all described it a bit differently but this is honey and kindof burnt caramel and that sense of an orange peel all put together. Very prevalent and almost gives the impression of being a sweet wine (esp since it’s more like a Sauternes in mouthful). Dense and intense (esp on the heels of a 2021) but quite enjoyable.

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Scallop
Rainbow Swiss chard / ginger-chive condiment / fennel-shoyu

• 1996 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Blanc

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  Interesting to compare this to the ‘96 De L’Oree and also the ‘83. This was somewhere in the middle. Lighter and a bit less intense than the De L’Oree. More acid still here. Still that honey but without quite as many of the burnt character. Darker in color than the ‘83 which was surprising. Drinking pretty well. Probably in the spot at the moment although wonder if some more years just changes it entirely. Seems like these wines never really age in steady progression or even a unidirectional progression.

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• 1983 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Blanc

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  Probably the winner of the whites. I vaguely feel like I had a Guigal blanc from this year maybe a few months ago and so now I’m wondering if this is a year to keep an eye out on the white side as well as the red. More acid here. Lots of white floral. Almost a touch saline. Some minerals. Still the honey and a nice freshness.

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Poularde
White asparagus (substituted for morels) / pomme purée / albufera sauce

• 1998 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  Opened and let breath for maybe a few hours before serving but no decant. I wonder how that would have impacted the wine as it did seem much more youthful than some notes had projected. Drinking nicely though. Very gamey and structured and balanced. Touch of the floral side. It’s a bit heavier than the Chave again but worked nicely with the food. Bottle in great shape.

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• 1998 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  Very classic old school style Rhone. Good acid. Lean and a bit animalistic. Drinking well at the moment. Had been opened and double decanted. Served next to a 98 La Chapelle and there’s certainly a stylistic difference with the vineyards that are on the same hill. Some from winemaking and some underlying grapes.

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Spring Lamb
Saddle / shoulder pastille / eggplant caviar / yogurt harissa

• 1989 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  Very fresh and young (interesting that both of the 89’s drank younger than their 98 little brothers). Peppery. Bright in style. Again more of a mouthful than the Chave and a slightly different style but there was something almost comforting in the structure of this wine. The kind that makes you think about a cold night and this is almost a warming mechanism.

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• 1989 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  For many the WOTN and it probably was although when the math becomes 4 bottles of this or 1 bottle of that I’m not sure its a fair fight and I’m not sure which direction I’d go since the La Chapelles were drinking very well. This wine is all classy Old school with baking spices (slightly different than what I normally get). The bacon and meat a bit more subdued although there in the background. Drinking nicely but with a long life ahead.

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Warm Manjari Chocolate Tart
Madagascar vanilla ice cream

• 1997 M. Chapoutier Hermitage Vin de Paille

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  Dark and brooding and intense and a decent amount of sweetness. Poured very dark and again it’s that caramel and slightly burnt style. A little bit goes a long way but it was quite nice paired with the chocolate cake which was delicious.

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• 2014 F.X. Pichler Riesling Smaragd Ried Loibenberg

  Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau

  End of night sipper and at this point in the evening a slightly bracing Riesling is just what the doctor ordered. It’s fresh and a bit intense with the hint of petrol coming.

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Could also have described this dinner as a study in Chave against some of its bigger competitors and it was interesting to see the stylistic differences. A bit more focus on acid and lift which obviously appeal. I was really impressed with all the wines which showed quite well.