Must and Lees, N1
Tasted Wednesday, June 21, 2023 by oenanthe with 85 views
Disclaimer: my knowledge of german wine is very limited, probably influenced by a dislike of wines that are anything but bone dry. I had a minor buying spree a couple of years ago on the basis that the many people raving about them couldn't all be wrong, but have yet to get stuck in. This would be a great opportunity to explore a variety of producers and styles to see if my small number of cases had been a mistake or not!
We enjoyed a variety of vintages, producers and styles, and almost all showed very well. I preferred the whites over the reds, the german style of PN seems a little lean and lacking in cheer. Within the whites it was no surprise that I enjoyed the drier style more - I still find the sweeter spatlese and beyond hard. Mainly this is because I always associate wine with food and I can't really see many meals I'd have these with. I think I could get on board with these as chilled summer aperitifs though - the 7-9% alcohol is a real winner.
As ever a nice crowd in a nice setting, including some new faces which was very welcome as the TWS North London group continues to expand.
2018 Chat Sauvage Pinot Noir 85 Points
Germany, Rheingau
Medium red. I would struggle on this nose to say that this was Pinot Noir, that's how different from Burgundy it is. On the palate there is an initial plush red fruit character that does not carry far, as well as olives and a little salinity. It seems to lack the pleasure factor that in my opinion all cheap and cheerful pinot noir ought to have, else what is the point? Maybe it just needs more time.
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2015 Weingut Hanewald-Schwerdt Leistadter Kalkofen Spätburgunder Trocken 87 Points
Germany, Pfalz
Medium translucent red. This is more evidently Pinot Noir on the nose, but on the palate it is very austere and lacking in roundness - linear, as if holding something back. Air and a good swish helps bring it to life a bit, at which point it becomes a commendable glass with a fair bit going on, lying somewhere between red and black on the spectrum (blue perhaps?), with decent acidity and a little spice.
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2017 Weingut Leipold Obervolkacher Landsknecht Spätburgunder 88 Points
Germany, Franken
Medium translucent red. Initially nothing whatsoever on the nose but quickly opens up within the glass. This has much more red fruit and acidity than the other two spatburgenders in the flight, it is vibrant and alive, and as such has that cheerfulness that I am looking for in inexpensive PN. And this is truly inexpensive (I think someone said €7 in Germany? - thus a total bargain), delivering many of the qualities of Bourgogne Rouge at a fraction of the price. I enjoyed this.
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