A very rare magnum. Incredibly impressive. The tension, power and elegance are mind-boggling, the balance and harmony are effortless, the interplay of primary minerally energy and rich evolved complexity is dazzling, the purity and precision are hard to believe in such a concentrated wine, the silky texture is supported by engaging bitters, and the drive and length on the finish with a whiff of orange zest are beyond compare. Perfection.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Quite rich for a 2014 Perrières, full-bodied, harmonious, quite open in style, not nearly as tight and minerally as I had expected, gentle oak, pure and precise, silky and perfectly harmonious, more mealy than reductive, excellent length, develops quickly in the glass. Excellent Meursault, but without the Coche magic.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
Bottle No. 02186 / 3330. Fragrant and rich and delicately honeyed, salty depth, whiffs of vanilla and spice, some white nuts, concentrated but with wonderful minerally and floral elegance, an elegant style of DRC Montrachet, creamy lemon, marvellous inner harmony, complete and delightfully salty on the layered and playful, extremely long finish. Very fine Montrachet.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
Bottle No. 09566 / 15467. Very elegant and expressive, wonderful 2017 elegance, hint of undergrowth, red berries and flowers, Vosne spices and the typical DRC orange zest, silky and flowing, beautifully integrated tannins, long and layered, dreamy finish with a delicious whiff of oak. Youthful but already extremely attractive.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Richebourg Grand Cru
Bottle No. 12221 / 15537. Marvellous nose, deep and precise and fresh, to swoon in, Vosne spices and minerals, nutty evolution, autumnal red berries; juicy and delicate palate, flowing and elegant, power without weight, effortless elegance supported by a firm backbone, excellent resonance and length. At perfect peak.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru
Powerful and complete and youthful, spicy and gamey, perhaps a bit muffled - or is it the comparison with the extremely fragrant DRC Richebourg 2000 which accompanied it? Wonderful balance and freshness, lively and elegant, wonderful weight of blue and black fruit, perfect charge of tannins, long and refined finish.
Playful and powerful, concentrated but so elegant and precise, ripe blackcurrant and flowers, cassis leaf, glossy and delicately autumnal, harmonious, perfectly integrated oak, firm but extremely finely grained tannins, hints of red meat, real depth, extremely long and layered finish. A masterpiece.
Everything a Saar Eiswein should be. Intense but weightless, the purest Riesling fruit with Eiswein apples, flowers and peach, perfectly harmonious, such incredible lightness of being, tropical notes, long and steely finish with a hint of spice. Joyful. Great future.
Very rich nose, clearly Dom Pérignon in style, huge minerally energy, tightly coiled palate, very tight finish, wonderfully complete and impressive finish. Not completely harmonious right now, score based on potential, needs time.
USA, Washington, Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley
The 2006 was so overripe and over the top, that I did not like it at all. This vintage is slightly more restrained in style, but the flavours and aromas are still really wild. Green peppers, herbal notes, overripe fruit, salmiac, liquorice, red meat, flowers, very drying tannins, long and dry finish. There is a lot going on, but at the end of the day it’s unhinged. Not for me.
2002 Krug Champagne Clos d'Ambonnay 100 Points
France, Champagne
A very rare magnum. Incredibly impressive. The tension, power and elegance are mind-boggling, the balance and harmony are effortless, the interplay of primary minerally energy and rich evolved complexity is dazzling, the purity and precision are hard to believe in such a concentrated wine, the silky texture is supported by engaging bitters, and the drive and length on the finish with a whiff of orange zest are beyond compare. Perfection.
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2014 Coche-Dury Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières 95 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Quite rich for a 2014 Perrières, full-bodied, harmonious, quite open in style, not nearly as tight and minerally as I had expected, gentle oak, pure and precise, silky and perfectly harmonious, more mealy than reductive, excellent length, develops quickly in the glass. Excellent Meursault, but without the Coche magic.
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2006 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Montrachet 97 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
Bottle No. 02186 / 3330. Fragrant and rich and delicately honeyed, salty depth, whiffs of vanilla and spice, some white nuts, concentrated but with wonderful minerally and floral elegance, an elegant style of DRC Montrachet, creamy lemon, marvellous inner harmony, complete and delightfully salty on the layered and playful, extremely long finish. Very fine Montrachet.
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2017 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Echezeaux 96 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
Bottle No. 09566 / 15467. Very elegant and expressive, wonderful 2017 elegance, hint of undergrowth, red berries and flowers, Vosne spices and the typical DRC orange zest, silky and flowing, beautifully integrated tannins, long and layered, dreamy finish with a delicious whiff of oak. Youthful but already extremely attractive.
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2000 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Richebourg 97 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Richebourg Grand Cru
Bottle No. 12221 / 15537. Marvellous nose, deep and precise and fresh, to swoon in, Vosne spices and minerals, nutty evolution, autumnal red berries; juicy and delicate palate, flowing and elegant, power without weight, effortless elegance supported by a firm backbone, excellent resonance and length. At perfect peak.
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2002 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin 96 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru
Powerful and complete and youthful, spicy and gamey, perhaps a bit muffled - or is it the comparison with the extremely fragrant DRC Richebourg 2000 which accompanied it? Wonderful balance and freshness, lively and elegant, wonderful weight of blue and black fruit, perfect charge of tannins, long and refined finish.
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2007 Screaming Eagle Cabernet Sauvignon 98 Points
USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville
Playful and powerful, concentrated but so elegant and precise, ripe blackcurrant and flowers, cassis leaf, glossy and delicately autumnal, harmonious, perfectly integrated oak, firm but extremely finely grained tannins, hints of red meat, real depth, extremely long and layered finish. A masterpiece.
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2016 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Eiswein 96 Points
Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Everything a Saar Eiswein should be. Intense but weightless, the purest Riesling fruit with Eiswein apples, flowers and peach, perfectly harmonious, such incredible lightness of being, tropical notes, long and steely finish with a hint of spice. Joyful. Great future.
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