With many Champagnes once one looks past the effervescence and the acidity, one will discover a Burgundy-type richness. This is definitely not the case with Les Chétillons, whose crisp minerality and freshness are as precise as they are endless.
Abundant aroma's of limestone and brioche (hard to determine where one ends and the other starts). Lemon, even a hint of melon.
The wine starts out smooth on the palate, leading to a pulsating crescendo of acidity and (surprisingly) a hint of bitterness. The wine is direct and singular, as if it's actively and consciously trying to get its message of freshness across.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru
Orange brown but the color still has surprising intensity.
Aroma's of clove, wet leaves, rooibos tea, metal. Some umami, but not overwhelmingly so.
The wine has a slender posture with ample acidity and fine tannins. There's quite a bit of persistence on the palate. The consistency of the drive is what surprised me most and earns it some points.
However, this one is clearly in its twilight years, as flavors of iron/rust/blood are becoming quite prominent.
The wine began to fade after a few minutes in the glass.
Second bottle of this vintage I've had this year. Where the 2012 and 2013 amazed me in their balance between luscious, playful fruit and taut structure, the 2014 seems to lack the 'fun' part.
There's already quite a few oxidation aromas; ripe apple and hazelnut. A hint of caramel and mineral tones. Abricot and puffed rice candy.
On the palate the wine is fresh with a generous, rolling acidity that persists in all directions and is really quite impressive. The wine is polished and fresh at the same time. Very refined.
A technically sound wine that just seems to lack the fruity magic of some other vintages for me.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
What a stunner.
Some wines amaze you because they surprise you, others amaze you because they do exactly what they ought to do. This wine falls in the latter category.
It is archetypical and therefore almost difficult to describe. Aroma's of apple, cinnamon, something lactic, chicken soup(?), quince, a hint of white pepper. And so so much chalky minerality.
What drive! What persistence! Its structure is a paradox. It is so slender and acidic, and yet so unbelievably rich and opulent.
It is perfectly within its drinking window right now, but I expect it will stay there for quite some time.
The other winner of the night. Surprisingly colorful.
The nose started out with spices, smoked meat, mocca, a hint of eucalyptus, pencil. After a few minutes, a stunning fruitiness started to emerge. A hint of cassis at first, building and building, until it was imbued with gorgeous forest fruit, a bit of jam, while underneath there was all this tertiary complexity. It took me a long time to even consider taking the first sip.
The tannins were utterly refined and vibrant, soft acidity and a tiny bit of chocolate-bitter.
Then another evolution when aromas of black olive and undergrowth started to develop. So much going on, and all so integrated. Really really refined and delicious.
In its perfect drinking window right now. No decanting, just followed it in the glass.
Aroma's of toffee, karamel, black coffee, cedar, eucalyptus. Very foresty and animalistic. Super complex, could sit and ponder these aroma's all night. The only thing: where's the fruit? Will that come once it opens up?
Sizzling tannins, so vibrant. Linear texture, a pleasant hardness. The eucalyptus-tone gives it an underlying freshness, lift and levity that sets a Great BDX apart from a good one.
From the first sip it's apparent that you're in the company of celebrity, of greatness. If there had been more red fruit, this would've been 97+ points for me. Could the fruit still develop in a few years?
2013 Pierre Péters Champagne Grand Cru Cuvée Speciale Blanc de Blancs Les Chetillons 95 Points
France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
With many Champagnes once one looks past the effervescence and the acidity, one will discover a Burgundy-type richness. This is definitely not the case with Les Chétillons, whose crisp minerality and freshness are as precise as they are endless.
Abundant aroma's of limestone and brioche (hard to determine where one ends and the other starts). Lemon, even a hint of melon.
The wine starts out smooth on the palate, leading to a pulsating crescendo of acidity and (surprisingly) a hint of bitterness. The wine is direct and singular, as if it's actively and consciously trying to get its message of freshness across.
What a great way to start a legendary tasting!
Would love to revisit in a few years.
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1976 Camille Giroud Latricières-Chambertin 88 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru
Orange brown but the color still has surprising intensity.
Aroma's of clove, wet leaves, rooibos tea, metal. Some umami, but not overwhelmingly so.
The wine has a slender posture with ample acidity and fine tannins. There's quite a bit of persistence on the palate. The consistency of the drive is what surprised me most and earns it some points.
However, this one is clearly in its twilight years, as flavors of iron/rust/blood are becoming quite prominent.
The wine began to fade after a few minutes in the glass.
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2014 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc 90 Points
France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Second bottle of this vintage I've had this year. Where the 2012 and 2013 amazed me in their balance between luscious, playful fruit and taut structure, the 2014 seems to lack the 'fun' part.
There's already quite a few oxidation aromas; ripe apple and hazelnut. A hint of caramel and mineral tones. Abricot and puffed rice candy.
On the palate the wine is fresh with a generous, rolling acidity that persists in all directions and is really quite impressive. The wine is polished and fresh at the same time. Very refined.
A technically sound wine that just seems to lack the fruity magic of some other vintages for me.
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2017 Philippe Colin Chevalier-Montrachet 98 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
What a stunner.
Some wines amaze you because they surprise you, others amaze you because they do exactly what they ought to do. This wine falls in the latter category.
It is archetypical and therefore almost difficult to describe. Aroma's of apple, cinnamon, something lactic, chicken soup(?), quince, a hint of white pepper. And so so much chalky minerality.
What drive! What persistence! Its structure is a paradox. It is so slender and acidic, and yet so unbelievably rich and opulent.
It is perfectly within its drinking window right now, but I expect it will stay there for quite some time.
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2002 Dominus Estate 98 Points
USA, California, Napa Valley
The other winner of the night. Surprisingly colorful.
The nose started out with spices, smoked meat, mocca, a hint of eucalyptus, pencil. After a few minutes, a stunning fruitiness started to emerge. A hint of cassis at first, building and building, until it was imbued with gorgeous forest fruit, a bit of jam, while underneath there was all this tertiary complexity. It took me a long time to even consider taking the first sip.
The tannins were utterly refined and vibrant, soft acidity and a tiny bit of chocolate-bitter.
Then another evolution when aromas of black olive and undergrowth started to develop. So much going on, and all so integrated. Really really refined and delicious.
In its perfect drinking window right now. No decanting, just followed it in the glass.
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2006 Château Haut-Brion 95 Points
France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Quite developed. Dark colour, deep crimson.
Aroma's of toffee, karamel, black coffee, cedar, eucalyptus. Very foresty and animalistic. Super complex, could sit and ponder these aroma's all night. The only thing: where's the fruit? Will that come once it opens up?
Sizzling tannins, so vibrant. Linear texture, a pleasant hardness. The eucalyptus-tone gives it an underlying freshness, lift and levity that sets a Great BDX apart from a good one.
From the first sip it's apparent that you're in the company of celebrity, of greatness. If there had been more red fruit, this would've been 97+ points for me. Could the fruit still develop in a few years?
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1999 Château d'Yquem 94 Points
France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
Open and pretty. Golden color.
Aromas of hazelnut, vanilla, spices and dried fruit.
Rich, thick texture with linear acidity and improbable length. Very cohesive.
Classic, and drinking very well right now.
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