Top 1ers for AK's birthday
Tasted Saturday, December 9, 2023 by melvinyeowq with 111 views
Introduction
Another wonderful celebration for the ever generous AK who brought along five top class bottles. Always grateful for such occasions where I get the chance to drink Burgundies from great makers with some age.
1999 Perrier-Jouët Champagne Belle Epoque 92 Points
France, Champagne
Late library release from 2018. Haven’t heard much discussion about the ‘99 vintage in champagne but the ones I’ve tried have been great and they seem to be at peak. Not a house I am familiar with, made in a crowd-pleasing style that reminded me of Piper. Good balance between richness and sweetness, some nougat and almond notes beginning to develop.
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1999 Domaine Marc Morey & Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru En Virondot 94 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Thought this was from a cooler vintage like 2007, so was surprised that it turned out to be much older. Absolutely pristine bottle, serious and hefty but with so much freshness and focus. Superb length. A wonderful example of an aged Burg white from an under-the-radar maker.
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2004 Domaine Robert Arnoux / Arnoux-Lachaux Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots 96 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
No greenness here whatsoever. Alluring, sensual nose that was quintessential Vosne. Brilliant, pure dark red fruit that I thought it must have been from a strong vintage like 99 or 02. Loved the intensity and verve on this. Pascal’s wines can be (unfairly) maligned but maybe it was just a matter of waiting for them to blossom? Absolutely stunning and the unanimous WOTN.
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2006 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Cuvée Duvault-Blochet 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Assemblage from DRC’s GC plots that didn’t make the cut. Still very Vosne but more masculine and blue-fruited than the Arnoux alongside. Rather stemmy that I felt this was almost a textbook Dujac. Weaker vintage showed here as the tannins weren’t as refined and more drying compared to the A-L alongside, but will bet on this improving with time given the massive concentration and quality of underlying material here.
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2006 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Vieille Vigne 92 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
In the flight of the first four wines, there were 3 Vosnes and 1 Gevrey. Most felt that the Cathiard was the Gevrey but the minority (including myself) said that this had to be the Gevrey since it was the outlier stylistically. Slightly cloudy in appearance, especially compared to the three Vosnes that were brilliant ruby red in colour. Older style of Fourrier with more earthy and rustic notes before he transitioned to the high-toned, less dense style of today. Guessed ‘08 based on the colour and high acidity. Quite integrated and resolved but the fruit did become more expressive with air.
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2006 Sylvain Cathiard Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
This was such a tannic beast that my first instinct was Cathiard Malconsorts. Stylistically similar to the DRC, unintegrated oak with massive blue fruit. Lovely structure and salinity to the wine, but badly needs more time. Wished I had the chance to revisit at the end of dinner but couldn’t find the bottle; the '05 Orveaux last month took a whole 10 hours to truly come into its own.
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2009 Joseph Drouhin Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Guessed ‘00/01 Chambolle because of how mild the fruit was, or as someone put it, polite. Very much in the zone now with slightly candied, sappy red fruit. Charming, and one of my perennial favourites that I still can afford to buy today.
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1996 Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Champeaux 95 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Preferred this between the Mortet pair. Slightly funky, sauvage nose but in contrast the palate was so precise and mineral. Intense, dark red fruit with some iron notes. Texture was seamless and ethereal; truly an iron fist in a velvet glove. One of my favourites on the night.
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2002 Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St. Jacques 91 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Dense, brooding dark fruit. Powerful, but not as elegant as the last time I had this or the ‘96 Champeaux alongside. Slightly too ripe and glossy with cherry liquor notes that was almost new-world like.
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1995 La Pousse d'Or Volnay 1er Cru Clos des 60 Ouvrées 95 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
My contribution. Glad it showed much better than the previous time I had this, so fresh that a few guessed 2017-19! Sensual, beguiling nose that showed the magic of Gerard Potel. Silky, seamless palate with refined tea-like tannins that led most to guess CdN. As good as the bottle that went head-to-head with Rousseau last year; unfortunately now I am down to my last bottle.
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2001 Domaine Jean Grivot Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Brûlées 91 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Some bricking. Guessed 2009 Vosne because of the spice and warm fruit that bordered on being too alcoholic. Serviceable but like most Grivots from this era, lacked the extra gear of the better makers on show today.
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