1989 Bordeaux Horizontal - London

Piccolino, Exchange Square
Tasted Thursday, February 22, 2024 by Vinumming & Ahhing with 85 views

Introduction

First of 2024 at Piccolino and first look at 1989 for a few years. Overall there is lots of life left in the grander wines. Others still retain interest.

Flight 1 - Fizz (1 Note)

  • 2008 Alfred Gratien Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs 91 Points

    France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

    A very pleasant Champagne to kick things off, really opens out with some time in the glass. Initially there are hints of ginger and as one of my table mates remarks some breadiness in the baguette spectrum. Some hints of quinine too. Palate has lovely breadth and just the right sweetness / bitterness contrast. With some air a couple of ppm of papaya emerge.

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Flight 2 - Mixed Reds (2 Notes)

  • 1989 Château Chasse-Spleen 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Moulis en Médoc

    One of two sourced at auction about 15 years ago. Very similar to one consumed around then. Charming nose with plenty of tobacco, some cedar and a little marron glacé sweetness. With air there's some beef pho to the nose as well. Palate is drying a little but there's still lots to like here with beautifully resolved tannins and lovely structure.

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  • 1989 Château Gloria 89 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    Reticent on pouring but with some air there are some lovely red fruits to the nose with a few hints of gazpacho. Palate has a green / savoury character. Perhaps a little short if being critical. With air there are some suggestions of cashew brittle on the nose.

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Flight 3 - Right Bank and Margaux (2 Notes)

  • 1989 Château Canon 89 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    If served blind I might have placed this on the left bank, there is a pleasant meaty character, some smoky soil tones and some rose like florality. Something in the aniseed spectrum too. Some around the table who've had this previously thought other bottles might have been in better shape.

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  • 1989 Château Malescot St. Exupéry 88 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    Not a wine I've had before so no real comparators. There is a real perfume counter character to the nose and some umami notes that remind me of a posh onion marmalade. Palate is savoury and quite correct if compact.

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Flight 4 - St Julien (3 Notes)

  • 1989 Château Gruaud Larose Flawed

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    This bottle is not right, there's something very lactic about it. It had an iffy cork but not certain the problem is TCA.

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  • 1989 Château Léoville Barton 94 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    Inky blue fruits here. Cool and savoury. Palate classical Barton with lots of cedar and classy plum fruits. Palate has a lovely spiciness. Tannins are resolved. With air a subtle star anise character emerges. Very classy.

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  • 1989 Château Léoville Las Cases 95 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    Very LLC, so perfectly put together; graphite, oodles of cassis, layers of sandalwood, hints of Oolong tea. Palate is outstanding; cool fruits, filigree tannins, subtly peppery. So long. Love it. My second favourite and the table's third favourite wine of the night

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Flight 5 - Pauillac 1 (2 Notes)

  • 1989 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Bright red fruits here on the nose, some hints of lingonberry and a little mintiness. Palate is long and spicy with the tannins nicely melted away. With air it rounds out nicely. Good stuff

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  • 1989 Château Mouton Rothschild 96 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Very luxe. Nose has a mushroom duxelles umami character with an exotic star anise character. Palate is so rich and long with cassis and subtle Christmas spices. With time in the glass there is a subtle rhubarb coulis character to the nose. Mine and the table's wine of the night.

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Flight 6 - Pauillac 2 (2 Notes)

  • 1989 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron 95 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Very profound wine here. Nose is rich, fruit cakey and long. There is real controlled power here. Palate has brooding, dark fruits with a suggestions of high quality roasting juices. Savoury and very more-ish. With air some hints of sweetness on the nose. My third favourite and the table's second favourite wine of the night.

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  • 1989 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    More red fruited than the Baron this is served with. There's a twist of grapefruit juice which complements the ensemble. Palate is very well balanced and together. Everything in the right place if softly spoken. After 30 mins in the glass there is the faintest suggestion of pine resin. A lovely pair which to a degree divide opinions around the table; I slightly prefer the Baron on tonight's showing.

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Flight 7 - Stickies (2 Notes)

  • 1989 Château Coutet Barsac 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac

    A bit tight opening. With air some rich Seville oranges, some banana fritter and hints of candyfloss. Lovely texture and length. Has held up well over time although this is my last bottle.

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  • 2016 Disznókő Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos 92 Points

    Hungary, Tokaji

    Lovely treat to end the evening. Very intense wine. Concentrated orange and tart gooseberry coulis with something a little petrol like on the nose. Such bracing acidity that you salivate. Yum

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Closing

Good to catch up with the gang. Steak was perfectly executed.

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