Chateauneuf Offline

After some interesting discussion on Chateauneuf styles over the summer, what better way to determine preferences than a blind offline. Vintages available from peoples cellars were limited with the best bet for the large horizontal being 1998, with a supporting cast of 1994, 1989/90 and a few 'odds'.

Thanks also to Linden for the 'unknown' 1945, which showed some lovely sweet fruit, quite cloudy, a little bitter on the finish, great to try though

• 2000 Domaine Bois de Boursan Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 88 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Oak, peach, full bodied, but not overbearing, a nice oily feel, good QPR.

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• 1996 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve 92 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Nice sweet nose, some interesting spice. On palate layers of kirsch and smoother cinnamon and mace. Everything there just too muted

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• 1992 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve Flawed

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Perhaps TCA affected, a bitterness to the nose, maybe oxidised. A shame. Not Rated

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• 1989 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape 93 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Perhaps not quite up to other bottles from the same batch, but of a similar vein.
  Fruit has dropped away, some dusty, grippy tannin, bretty, but a nice mineral element.

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• 1990 Clos des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape 92 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Some power here, clean, sweet red fruits, nice depth to finish, drinking very well

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• 1990 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape 94 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Very interesting, nice tannin structure, great minerality, acidity in balance, just a hint of brett. Excellent

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• 1990 Domaine du Pégau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Laurence

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Some dark pine somke on nose, Lapsang Souchong. Quite deep, very different, perhaps just bottle stink, but I think this was faulty. Not Rated

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I think these wines showed pretty well considering the vintage.

• 1994 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape 88 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Strong tannin, a little thin on midpalate, lacking some power and gusto, nice though.

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• 1994 M. Chapoutier Châteauneuf-du-Pape Barbe Rac 90 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Strong, powerful nose, very new world style, oak and tannin on verge of excess, kept in check by some really strong, interesting black fruit. Not sure what will become of this though, suggest drinking up.

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Only took notes on these, nothing for VT (corked?) Sabon Prestige, Bosquet or Villeneuve, mainly as they were unremarkable.

• 1998 Château La Nerthe Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée des Cadettes

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  I could get little from this except a sense of alcohol, on nose and palate. Not Rated

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• 1998 Domaine de Marcoux Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  An enormous disapointment. VA in about 10 different flavours. No ripe sweet fruit which I was greatly looking forward to, no concentration. A huge shame (especially as I have a bottle). Not Rated

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• 1998 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Slightly volitile, this wine really didn't give much away, some mineral notes on finish, but not coming out to play. Not rated

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• 1998 Les Cailloux (Lucien et André Brunel) Châteauneuf-du-Pape 90 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Rich, deep nose of black cherry. I really liked this, nice tannic structure, smooth finish.

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• 1998 Domaine de la Charbonnière Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Vieilles Vignes 90 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Another interesting back ender. Strong fruits, with a nice acid balance, depth to the finish.

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I think Caldesi did an excellent job with the food, only criticism was that we had too much, cheese OR pudding next time! Oh, and remind me never to attract peoples attention by tapping my Riedel with a pen again :(

So overall, more wines disappointed than pleased. The quality of Beaucastel did shine though, through all four vintages on show.

Why could the 1998s show so badly?

Over decanted? (all double decanted the morning before)
Closed down?
Not a vintage with characteristics that appeal to the 'panel'?

Not sure, I know it would be much simpler if they were not liked as we found them too big, too sweet and concentrated. In the end it was not so much that they were bad, just unremarkable.