My 2nd trip to The Sampler

The Sampler, London
Tasted Thursday, February 18, 2010 by Benj with 669 views

Introduction

Just whites, this time, as I didn't have a huge amount of time there (and none of the reds really screamed at me to try them). I did try 3 or 4 reds, but quickly and without taking notes. Of the reds, the 1996 Chateau de Pitray was meh, and there was a lovely heavy-hitting Priorat, though I don't remember what it was.

As seems to be the way at The Sampler, a wonderful range of awesome, good, meh and barely wine.

Flight 1 (9 Notes)

  • 2008 M. Chapoutier Côtes du Rhône Blanc Belleruche 85 Points

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône

    Almost Sancerre- or Chablis-like freshness and minerality, with honey-dipped apples filling it out. Surprisingly weighty, slightly nutty palate, but with a clean sharp finish and almonds right at the end. A little alcoholic at the back, not quite to my taste but very good. £10, 13% abv.

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  • 2007 Brokenwood Sémillon 88 Points

    Australia, New South Wales, Hunter Valley

    Smells quite a lot like an unoaked Chard. Rounded smell of drumsticks, overripe melon and a touch of lemon. Light, though. Very nice on the palate, dense but with high acid (good combo!), tight, a mixture of citrus and sort of weighty tropical fruit. Mouthwatering. Excellent. £11.30, 11.5% abv

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  • 2006 Kistler Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard 92 Points

    USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros

    The nose is about as good as it gets for me on a Chardonnay. Truly beautiful, oak exceptionally handled, a lively blend of lemon, satsuma, sweet butter and of course the toast. Rich and very aromatic but not overpowering. Very full on the palate, good high acidity, more of this unusual (but lovely) sweet butter on the finish (but not OTT). Long, balanced, delicious, but ultimately doesn't live up to the nose. Nose: 94, palate: 90, overall: 92. Still...£90?

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  • 1996 Château de Fieuzal Blanc Flawed

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    This *must* have been flawed. I have experienced this exact aroma and flavour setup several times in different types of white wines and cannot believe anyone would make this intentionally. Smells overpoweringly of molasses / liquorice hiding some nice sweet fruit. This liquorice-y note continues to the palate, it *feels* oxidised, and tastes a little sherry-like. Very acidic, quite thin.

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  • 2008 Cave Vinicole de Kientzheim-Kaysersberg Gewurztraminer Anne Boecklin Réserve 81 Points

    France, Alsace

    Yeah yeah, so lychees and roses are the hallmarks of Gewurztraminer, but the nose on this one is almost worryingly typical, also lacks any further detail or interest. I was a little surprised at the off-dry style on the palate, the sweetness suits and you can tell what they were aiming for, but the acid is just way off (too low) so it lacks structure and feels flabby and a little sickly. Of course, it tastes good, but these problems plus a short finish make it a toughy overall. £13.30

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  • 2004 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 93 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    A little lacking aromatically. Classic Riesling nose on the sweet apple/vanilla/tropical fruit/milk bottle sweets side, rather than the limes/minerals side. However, when I put it in my mouth, oh my god...almost tear-jerkingly beautiful. An extraordinary attack with a huge burst of sweetness & acidity beautifully balanced smashes into my tongue and relentlessly pushes through the midpalate, throwing a bouquet of flowers and a basket of fruit all over my mouth, then just as I swallow it it clings on for dear life at the back of my mouth, refusing to fully let go and only slowly fading away. One of those great wines that puts you in the dilemma where a lovely finish is still lingering, but you desperately want to drink more. This is about as good as it gets, and for £22 and only 7.5% abv, yes please! Nose: 89, palate: 96. Overall: 93. If this could deliver a little more on the nose it could satisfy me all day, every day.

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  • 2008 Larry Cherubino Riesling Ad Hoc Wallflower 58 Points

    Australia, Western Australia, South West Australia, Great Southern

    Seriously?

    This both looks and smells like water that an apple and a lemon vaguely sneered at before moving on to a more deserving winery. The palate is over-acidic, like the lemon called up his friend switchblade and told him about a great new wine to set up shop in, and again, the palate has no fruit. I mean...wow, this is just...AWFUL, and it doesn't even seem flawed, just...bad.

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  • 2007 Cave Vinicole de Kientzheim-Kaysersberg Riesling Schlossberg Anne Boecklin 70 Points

    France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru

    Not impressed with this Anne Boecklin range at all. Off-kilter, no fun, lacks fruit or anything really particularly pleasurable. Not fundamentally BAD, just...not GOOD. £16.40

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  • 2001 Château Guiraud 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

    Haha, the botrytis is owning this allllll day. The nose is a touch off-balance at the moment. The components are there but I think it needs some more time for them to mesh. Likewise with the palate, though these components really do carry what for me is the best indication of really good Sauternes: REAL dried apricots (not just "oh this smells like dried apricots!", but "holy...no, seriously guys...I definitely just ate some dried apricots...stop messing with my head"), but also additional touches like a big dose of allspice (I love allspice) and a lighter, floral touch. The acid is good, though I sometimes find Guiraud to be a bit on the thick side and this is definitely thick, but has the acid to support it. Here's hoping this ages into a beauty - it's all there, it just needs another decade to come together. 92 points now, but with the possibility of a rapid rise up the career ladder.

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