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Wine Type Vintage Name Variety Locale Date Posted Score Helpful Comments More...
Red

2010 Château Cantemerle

Haut-Médoc Red Bordeaux Blend more

8/10/2023 - Julian Marshall Likes this wine: 91 points

Better than previous bottles, this is developing into quite a nice Cantemerle, but I certainly wouldn't expect it to transform into a great one. The creamy, brambly fruit is gaining in attractiveness but, I don't know, there is a lack of freshness about it, a lack of purity, so I'm still not sure about its long term future. 2033 is listed here as the drink-by date - I certainly wouldn't wait that long.

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Red

2010 Château Cantemerle

Haut-Médoc Red Bordeaux Blend more

1/29/2021 - Julian Marshall wrote: 88 points

The first of six bought at release. Again, the style swings wildly from one vintage to the next - this is totally unlike the 09 - indeed, I would struggle to realise they were from the same château.
Very much a 2010, this is full of spicy fruit, quite restrained after decanting the first night, rather stodgy the second night. It's like a blend of a St.Julien and a Margaux. Not bad, but it was outclassed by a Grand Chênes 2009 (of all wines) and once again, this is not as good as Citran at double the price.
I am hopeful of improvement in another four or five years, but my wait for another 89 goes on - this is not it.

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Red

1996 Château Léoville Barton

St. Julien Red Bordeaux Blend more

9/2/2018 - Julian Marshall Likes this wine: 94 points

A great example of Barton, this has mellowed into a really satisfying Saint Julien. The nose is complex, with nuts, forest fruit, cigar box and a large dollop of cherry. The initial taste is less full-bodied than the last bottle, with a more open blend of dark cherry, blackcurrant and forest fruits, before a middle section that lifts to the top of the palate and a long finish which focuses on blackberry flavours. It's much more charming than the 90 was at the same stage, quite similar to the 85. Perfect balance, perfect feel.
This is at peak, I can't see it improving further, but it has a good five or ten years to go.
Not quite as good as the 90, because the middle section lacks the latter's power and acceleration into the finale, but an excellent wine.

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Red

2010 Château Sociando-Mallet

Haut-Médoc Red Bordeaux Blend more

8/6/2021 - Julian Marshall Likes this wine: 91 points

55% CS, 40% M and 5% CF. A little oak on the nose, but mainly brambly fruit at first before the blackcurrant kicks in, with a hint of sea spray at the end. The attack is fairly dense, lots of thick blackcurrant, with at this stage, only a modicum of a middle section leaning towards some cooler dark cherry, before quite a rich, hot finish. Still very primary, quite tannic, but accessible, this is plusher than I expected, probably the richest SM I've tried at ten years after the vintage. No worries - it is still very much a SM, even if there is no green bell-pepper - the acidity keeps the rich texture under control.

In the context of the vintage, this compares well to its peers - the fruit is purer and less spicy - it is certainly the best I've had from Haut-Médoc so far, including all the CCs. For hardcore fans of SM, it is a little different - this is not at all like the green 2000, for example. In style, very much a Pauillac - reminiscent of Duhart. I admired rather than liked it for now but it should be much better with another five to ten years.

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Red

2016 Château Labégorce

Margaux Red Bordeaux Blend more

2/10/2024 - Julian Marshall Does not like this wine: NR

Quite ripe and rich on the nose, with sweet blueberry and blackcurrant, plus some red fruit and violet in the background. In the mouth, it’s lush, plump, rather chunky and very ripe, with sweet blueberry dominating for now, although there is thankfully some crisper blackcurrant midpalate, before quite a long finish featuring tobacco notes on top of all the fruit. Quite surprising, in that it lacks the acidic crispness found in other Margaux 2016, leaving a rather stodgy sensation in the mouth. Still very young, so it could develop more nuances and less of the thick fruit. Quite hard work to drink now. Where’s the Margaux finesse?

This was very well-received on release and at 28 euros, seemed good value in view of all the praise, but I’m not convinced about the quality, nor about its future. The 2009 did taste similar at the same age and in the end, the lush fruit settled down without slipping into syrupy flavours, so fingers crossed. At least it isn’t over-oaked.

I suppose the problem is for me that it’s a neither-nor wine. It’s a former Cru Bourgeois aiming at achieving the same level of quality as a CC, which is admirable, but whether it’s the terroir or the winemaking, or both, for now it just tastes like a souped-up CB at a much higher price. The 2016 is a more concentrated, lusher wine than the 2009, without any real improvement, and costing a bit more. Not an estate I shall go back to anytime soon.

Not sure what score to give this.

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Red

2018 Domaine des Roches Neuves Saumur-Champigny Franc de Pied

Cabernet Franc more

2/18/2021 - Julian Marshall Likes this wine: 93 points

The nose was, unsurprisingly, primary and not very developed at this stage, with notes of juicy raspberry and herbs, a little mint but that's it. But already, that made me quite optimistic - it smelt like a normal Roches-Neuves. The first sip confirmed that there is no reason to worry - quite rich, concentrated raspberry flavours, but with the usual crunchiness and the usual clipping acidity to bring the fruit back into line. It is a little richer than normal, but in a restrained and civilized way. It is of course quite hard work to drink now - four hours in a decanter were not enough. If you know UK sweets (or candy if you prefer), this is like drinking a hypothetical zero dosage Rowntrees raspberry wine gum!
But you can see very clearly where it is going - this reminded me of the 2009 - very well-rounded, ripe but not overripe.
At 13.5° this is higher than usual - normally this wine is 12.5 to 13° - but I didn't notice the difference much.

What reassured me is that the fruit did not taste remotely high-octane and syrupy. My only doubt concerns the time needed for it to really shine - it will be fun in five years' time but I think it needs at least ten more years to shine, possibly more - but it will then be an absolute corker of a wine!

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Red

2005 Château Sociando-Mallet

Haut-Médoc Red Bordeaux Blend more

2/23/2021 - Julian Marshall Likes this wine: 93 points

This was interesting. On opening, it was very tight and very tannic, a really sulky teenager. Even after four hours in a decanter, not much had changed and the harsh tannins made it almost undrinkable - no fruit, no body. After eight hours (!) a totally different wine emerged - the tannins had receded, leaving a rich but silky Pauillac-like wine, full of cassis and blackberry, with a very attractive, cool mid-section giving it much-needed freshness.
This needs time, simple as that. If you must drink it now, decant it after breakfast, otherwise wait for at least five years.
On the basis of the quality shown towards the end of the bottle, this will turn out very well indeed, but I suspect this will always be a Sociando for those who don't like Sociando rather than a classic for those that do.
If you bought this for your child's birthyear you did the right thing!

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Red

2000 Château Gruaud Larose

St. Julien Red Bordeaux Blend more

7/3/2022 - Julian Marshall Likes this wine: 95 points

Slightly bretty on opening but four hours in a decanter sorted it out. Blackberries and smoke on the nose, with a little sage and thyme, then a very pure attack of blackcurrants, some spicy blackberry, a large dollop of dark cherry, and a long, satisfying finish which is slightly peppery.
Absolutely delicious, showing great poise and balance, although lacking the volume of the 82, for example, which remains for me the benchmark GL vintage.
I can't see it improving further but no hurry either, this will keep for ten to twenty years easily.

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Red

2004 Château Malescot St. Exupéry

Margaux Red Bordeaux Blend more

9/16/2018 - Julian Marshall wrote: 90 points

This continues to improve and has a few years of development left.
The colour is still quite intense, the rose-petal and red fruit aromas are enticingly mouth-watering: you just know it's going to be good and your palate does too. At first, a soft, elegant taste of fresh but dusty red berries, leaning towards red cherry, then the middle section hits, with very rich, jammy tastes of brambly fruit, morphing into crème de mûre, with a touch of further crisp elegance on the finish. The first impression was very impressive indeed. But as the evening went on, it wasn't quite so good. With food, it was great, but on its own after dinner, the imbalance between Malescot elegance and the lingering fruit became apparent.

I'm just old enough to remember what Malescot tasted like in the 70S and 80s - very elegant and distinguished, not very fruity. Some years were good, others awful. The elegance is still there - just - although it took a good ten years to show with the 04, but the fruit is a little overdone. It's very agreeable and not at all syrupy, but I couldn't help wishing I could dial back the fruit a couple of notches, to allow the crisp elegance a little more space. Hopefully this will sort itself out in time, because the vigour suggests that the wine has another five years to go before complete maturity, but I still can't help thinking how much better this wine could have been. It's a fine wine, but it could have been a great one.

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Red

2008 Château Haut-Bages Libéral

Pauillac Red Bordeaux Blend more

12/6/2013 - Julian Marshall Likes this wine: 92 points

Quite a restrained bouquet, with cassis, leather and plums taking two hours to really show. Full bodied, this hasn't lost its baby fat yet, great dollops of cassis, vanilla, plum and a second wave of creamy blackberry, but the tannins give the fruit a slightly austere taste at the moment. I'm impressed at the size and breadth: not a great HBL, but certainly a very good one. It needs at least five years, probably ten, reminding me of the 01 at the same age, with more body and strength. Underrated and undervalued.

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Red

2003 Château Léoville Barton

St. Julien Red Bordeaux Blend more

11/11/2018 - Julian Marshall wrote: NR

Perfect fill and excellent cork, as good as new. At first, quite promising - dark, with strong, spicy aromas of black cherry and blackberry, albeit slightly baked. The first sip was much like the other 03s I have tasted recently - compact, concentrated and with a hint of stewed fruit, but I hoped that like the others, it would open up with decanting. It didn't. On the one hand, it does taste of LB - recognizably so, with a freshness on top of the attack. But it's over-concentrated, too compact and never gets past mid-palate, with a very short finish. As the evening went on, so it became more and more stodgy and port-like. It was hard work to drink and not very enjoyable. Perhaps it's me, perhaps this was a very backward bottle, but it was not nearly as good as the 01 and 02 tried recently. I'm loathe to score this, because I don't know if this bottle is representative since so many love this wine.

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Red

2004 Château Léoville Barton

St. Julien Red Bordeaux Blend more

1/14/2019 - Julian Marshall wrote: 92 points

Tasted with the 01, the colour is slightly darker, the nose slightly fresher and more insistent, with similar aromas and a touch of brett and leather. In the mouth, however, an entirely different beast to the 01. The fruit sensations are much the same, but still quite primary and what really changes is the middle section, which is silky and much more lifting. If the 2001 is a traditional LB, the 04 is more modern, not in a spoofy sense, but because of the silky, creamy middle section, almost Margalais. The finish is less profound than the 01 but more persistent. If I had been told blind that this was a Léoville, because of the style I would have guessed LLC. It reminded me of LLC in 93 or 94. I've certainly never tasted a Barton like this one. It takes a bit of getting used to, but it's very impressive indeed.

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Red

2003 Château Léoville Poyferré

St. Julien Red Bordeaux Blend more

10/7/2018 - Julian Marshall Likes this wine: 96 points

I opened it late, at around 5pm and at first, like the Pontet-Canet 03 a few weeks ago, it wasn't promising. Instantly recognizable as Léoville-Poyferré, with very spicy fruit, but more so than normal, slightly stodgy, with a very short finish. So I decanted it and two hours later, a different wine emerged.

The nose still needed a little coaxing at first to get the dark cherry, tobacco and spices, with Pauillac-like cigar box and cedar notes coming later. In the mouth, the spicy fruit hits first, loads of sweet blackberry and red cherry, then a much more sober middle section, quite thick and broad, full of blackcurrant, much more like a Pauillac than a St.Julien, before the spicy fruit returns for the long, persistent finish. One of the best wines of the year.

My palate is fairly traditional, I had got a little tired of the LP style in recent years, so I was a bit wary, especially since it was a 2003, but no need: this is a great wine and a very fine example of LP, one of the best ever.

It's not quite ready yet, in that the back end of the middle section, just before the finish, is slightly clumsy and the gears grind a little. But the power and concentration, along with the impressive grip and structure, are such that the wine will continue to improve.

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Red

1996 Château Calon-Ségur

St. Estèphe Red Bordeaux Blend more

1/21/2018 - Julian Marshall Likes this wine: 92 points

At peak: remarkably sensual and beguiling for a St.Estephe, with layers of blackberry, blackcurrant and sweet notes of red cherry which unfold before a long, lingering finish. It should hold for several more years. With the 88 thi is one of the best Calons I've tasted.

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White

2020 Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine sur lie Vieilles Vignes Briords

Melon de Bourgogne more

5/19/2023 - Julian Marshall Likes this wine: 91 points

Great stuff as usual, with wonderful energy and zest. More saline than the Bel Abord (Lieubeau) tasted alongside, but a little less volume than the latter. Perhaps slightly more compelling .

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White

2017 Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec Le Haut-Lieu

Chenin Blanc more

2/17/2020 - Julian Marshall Likes this wine: 91 points

Bright aromas of pears, lemon and honey, with a fresh attack of the same, tinged with apple and minerals, quite a rich middle section leaning mostly towards honey and a fairly intense finish, quite crisp. Not too rich, nicely balanced, very satisfying. On opening, it was slightly tarty, much better the second evening, so it needs air.

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Red

2010 Château Cantemerle

Haut-Médoc Red Bordeaux Blend more

1/10/2023 - Julian Marshall wrote: 89 points

Marginally better than the bottle tried a year ago, I liked the spicy, brambly fruit and slightly soft, creamy texture, but the fruit is beginning to fade and the colour is definitely starting to brown at the edges. Not at all bad but there are many Crus Bourgeois 2010 that are better for a lot less. I wouldn't wait too long.

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Red

2016 Château Larose-Trintaudon

Haut-Médoc Red Bordeaux Blend more

8/20/2021 - Julian Marshall wrote: NR

In order to choose a wine for a wedding, I tasted four vintages:

2014: aromas of blackberry and wild strawberry, before quite a plump mouthful of blackcurrant, plum and blackberry, very suave and classical in style, still a little tannic, fresh, elegant and reserved. I had this a month a go so knew what to expect, but it's a fine example of Larose.

2015: the bouquet is richer and deeper than the 2014, with prominent blackcurrant and plum. The attack is fuller too, quite a full-bodied mouthful of blackberry and blackcurrant, with at this stage just hints of plum and violet. Less elegant, more concentrated than the 2014, this needs another three to five years, but very promising indeed.

2016: notes of red cherry and cranberry, very bright and at first, rather disconcertingly so. The attack was just as odd, quite sharp notes of red cherry and cranberry, with a wave of redcurrant, none of the blacker fruit I was expecting. It took a couple of days to calm down and in the end, the bright flavours became quite enjoyable, but certainly the strangest Larose I have ever tasted - like a bio-dynamic experiment gone wrong.

2017: fresh notes of dark cherry and spring flowers, with quite a sappy mouthful of black cherry and blackberry, clearly not the finest vintage but with lots of easy-going charm.

For the long term, the 2015 was clearly the best. The 2016 needs revisiting in a couple of years time, but for the wedding, the choice was between the 2014 and 2017 - the 2017 has a very appealing brightness, but the 2014 is a lot more classy, so the 2014 will probably be the chosen wine. I had expected that it would, but the 2017 gave it a run for its money.

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Red

2005 Domaine de Chevalier

Pessac-Léognan Red Bordeaux Blend more

9/19/2022 - Julian Marshall Does not like this wine: NR

I was inspired to open this by Jane Anson’s very interesting report on the 2005s last week, in which she chose DdeC as the wine to open now. I followed her advice and decanted it for several hours.

Decanting was absolutely necessary - on opening, the wine was a bit disjointed with the sort of rasping, tannic finish that I’ve come to expect from 05s.

On the nose, red cherry, cigar box and redcurrants, plus some sweet spices towards the end. At first, a rush of red cherry, quite high-pitched, before some silky redcurrant and an intense third wave of blackberry and blackcurrant - so far so good - then…wham…the finish hits the back of the throat: very acidic, quite hot, a lingering sensation of cough mixture and kirsch. Not as tannic as it had been on opening, but it belied the mere 13° and ruined the whole experience.

I’m not sure what to think about this - there is a silky elegance to the fruit and until the finish, it is quite impressive, but it’s one of those glossy, high-pitched wines that lack a bass line, and as for the finish…I just hope time will sort it out. The style of the wine is anything but classic, like for me so far, the vintage itself. I can imagine the Chevalier turning into something special, but I wouldn’t put any money on it. It just reminded me yet again of how much I miss the old style.

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Red

2003 Château Pontet-Canet

Pauillac Red Bordeaux Blend more

9/20/2018 - Julian Marshall Likes this wine: 93 points

It started badly: although I opened it in the morning, I didn't decant, which was a mistake. At first, the nose was cramped, with a lot of liquorice and the fruit was not burnt, but over-concentrated and rather pinched. "Typical bloody 2003", I thought. After a few hours, however, something much better emerged. The nose opened, with the usual Pauillac notes of cigar box and blackcurrant, the fruit shed its shackles and although ripe, became a much more typical display of thick, blackcurrant jammy Pauillac. So ultimately one of the best Pontet-Canets I've had. I think it needs at least another five years, maybe more, with a long life ahead.

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Red

2015 Château Fourcas Dupré

Listrac-Médoc Red Bordeaux Blend more

12/14/2022 - Julian Marshall wrote: 88 points

Needs a few more years, but at this stage rather lacking in character. Plenty of ripe red berries with some rich blackberry, very smooth, made in an international style which is fine for uncritical midweek drinking in cold weather. Does its job but no more.

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Red

2018 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon La Croix Boissée

Cabernet Franc more

5/18/2021 - Julian Marshall Likes this wine: 95 points

Literally mouth-watering notes of raspberry and red cherry, in fact just writing this makes my mouth water again, remembering them. The aromas are so good that it took me a while to go any further, and I'm not generally that patient, but also the nose is immediately reassuring - this is not a fruit-bomb - there is a tension there too, plus some strong notes of sweet peas, to show that this is not going to disappoint.
The attack is fresh, crisp and crunchy, just like a Roches Neuves, with raspberry, dark cherry, a little blackberry, before a strong wave of sour cherry takes over. There is certainly a lot of fruit, but it is under control, well-restrained by the framework and chalkiness in the background. The elegance is there too, with a beautiful middle section where the raspberry dominates, but within the limits set by the framework and the finish is just sensational, very long and sweet, but this is the sweetness of an organic wine, so without excessive sugar.

I recorked this and came back to it several days later - it was more open but still very vibrant, the attack now softer and the fruit less crunchy, more raspberry and less sour cherry. The profile was still very fresh and overall I was reminded of similar sensations tasting a young Figeac or Magdelaine.

This is an exceptional wine which can be enjoyed with a very long decant, but should really be forgotten about for at least five years.

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White

2019 Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec Clos du Bourg

Chenin Blanc more

8/30/2022 - Julian Marshall wrote: NR

The nose had a very clear whiff of stewed apple amid the citrus notes I was expecting and in the mouth, the crystalline attack was quickly dominated by a strong taste of overripe, slightly cidery apple. Once I got used to it, it was a lot less unpleasant than it sounds, but it was not what I expected.

To put it into perspective, I opened a bottle of Champalou Les Fondraux 2019 to compare - and there really was no comparison. The Fondraux had the same tastes of apple and pear as the last bottle I had tried, but unlike the Huet, those tastes were ripe but not overripe.

Tried together, the Huet appeared disjointed and unbalanced, with the cidery apple sticking out like a sore thumb, whereas the Fondraux was harmonious and well-rounded.

Maybe just a bad bottle, but at 27 euros I won’t be looking for more.

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Red

2009 Château Cantemerle

Haut-Médoc Red Bordeaux Blend more

11/8/2020 - Julian Marshall wrote: 90 points

Like the Citran, this has blackberry and cigar box aromas, with a touch of tobacco. The first taste came as a real shock - cool, fresh, Loire-like: totally atypical for the vintage, mostly blackcurrant, incredibly subtle. In fact it's so subtle that it's a little subdued - there isn't really a middle section, or if there is, it tastes a bit unripe, even diluted. Going into the finish, hints of ripe blackberry and plum finally emerge, but without really leaving a lasting impression. There is no doubting the elegance and finesse, this is much better than the 05 and many other recent vintages, but it's a very odd wine in the context. I wonder when it was picked. I enjoyed it a lot all the same.

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Red

2009 Château Talbot

St. Julien Red Bordeaux Blend more

10/27/2016 - Julian Marshall Likes this wine: 92 points

I had this blind at a friend's last night. No bullshit - I did vaguely recognise it as a St.Julien, but not as a Talbot, and I would never have guessed 09. I was surprised at how drinkable it was - I know that 09s are, but I wasn't expecting as much enjoyment. It was still very primary and slightly syrupy, but with a rounded, almost crisp finish that offset the youthful fruit particularly well. As for the smell and taste, well pretty much standard fare: leather, spices, dark cherry, blackcurrant and nutmeg, in no particular order. But not much oak: I'm not familiar with all Talbot's most recent vintages, but this is certainly the first I've tried since whenever that doesn't suffer from the curse that set in mid-90s onwards - it doesn't have a surfeit of oak and it doesn't try and ape Léoville-Poyferré. So for me, good stuff indeed.
We had an animated discussion about drinking windows - my friends saw no reason to wait, I disagreed. So each to his own: it can certainly be enjoyed now, which is after all the whole point, but I won't touch mine for another five years.

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  • Tasting notes: 2,096 notes on 1,311 wines

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