Introduction
This is an event I look forward to every year, even if I've ragged a bit on the opacity of the selection criteria in the past. There's always an eclectic group of producers ranging from the very well known and perpetually excellent to the less well known and only occasionally excellent, or at least aspiring to excellence. There's enough of each to keep it interesting. There's also always great food on hand. This year's venue, the Metreon, had its pluses and minuses. The view from the Metreon balcony is one of the best in San Francisco, so the outdoor, balcony part of the event, especially given the beautiful weather conditions, proved to be a scenic and inspiring place to taste wine. The indoor part, on the other hand, especially after dark, tended to be gloomy, cavernous and more than a little depressing. I much preferred the design center site where it was held the last couple of years, but I appreciate the effort to make it work at the Metreon, especially given the wonderful outdoor view.
So last year I couldn't resist taking a swipe or two at Wine & Spirits Magazine's impenetrable explanation for how they arrive at their Top 100, noting that their criteria somehow manages to eliminate all of Bordeaux as well as a great many top Burgundy and Italian producers. My report on last year's event and my quibble with the means of getting to the top 100 list is here: http://www.rjonwine.com/argentine-wine/wine-spirits-top-100-wineries/ The editor-in-chief's fascinating response to my post, which I received months later via snail mail, and my rejoinder to (i.e., demolishment of) his response can be found here: http://www.rjonwine.com/magazines/winespirits-magazine-editor-response/
As usual, each producer was limited to pouring two wines (although a few somehow managed to sneak in a third). I managed to taste 102 wines from 49 producers this year. I avoided most California producers that I get other chances to taste, and tried to get to most of the producers that I'd never seen at local events before. I typically start with the sparkling wines, and there are always two or three good Champagne producers. I then move on to the handful of Burgundy producers--this year Domaine Leflaive, Bouchard, Philippe Colin and Maison Louis Jadot, as they tend to run out early--and then look to see what else is new. I tried all of the Italian producers on hand and found their wines generally disappointing compared to prior years. I was not really excited by most of what I tasted here from Spain or Portugal either, but the German lineup was quite strong. I also found some interesting wines that were new to me from Australia. And I skipped a lot of great producers--like Anthill Farms, Evening Lands, Peay, Qupe and Ridge, because I have other opportunities to taste them in more depth.
So what stood out for me at this year's event? On the positive side, I appreciate the continued inclusion of lesser known producers from less celebrated parts of the wine world, like Greece's Boutari, Domaine Gerovassilou and Tselepos; Argentina and Chile's Concha y Toro, Loma Larga, Achaval-Ferrer and Bodega Catena Zapata; Sherry producers Pedro Romero and El Maestro Sierra; and Washington State's Buty, Januik and Mark Ryan Winery. For the list of wines I rated 93 points or more, see below. On the negative side, the boorish and obnoxious behavior of Movia's owner/winemaker Ales Kristancic. I have never experienced more attitude and less interest in pouring one's wine from any winery owner or representative at any event in my life. (At one point I commented to the woman gamely trying to fill in at his station that Ales seemed to have "checked out." She cleverly responded, given the breakup of Czechoslovakia, that one might more accurately say he'd "Slavved out.") He was regularly absent from the Movia station, and instead could be seen grabbing and manhandling attractive women throughout the event. I returned multiple times to the Movia station, hoping to get a taste of the Puro Brut Rosé, which I hadn't tried before. For over 45 minutes, I was told to come back when the "tall bald guy" is here. He had to personally open it, as the fact that it's bottled with its lees requires it to be opened and disgorged under water. He finally did return and I was first in line. Ales performed his show of opening the brut under water, in a large bowl, constantly looking at the women in his audience. When he finally popped the cork, clumsily, he managed to drain all but half a glass of the wine directly into the large punch bowl. I managed to get a couple sips of what was left. My god, what an insufferable clown! For a couple of pics of Alex grabbing women (I could have taken dozens more from what I personally observed that night), see below. Personally, I've totally lost interest in this particular producer as a result of Ales's boorish behavior. If W&S invites him back next year, now that we all know how he behaves with women, they risk lawsuits for hostile work environment sexual harassment.
The wines I most enjoyed at this tasting, rating them 93 points or higher, were as follows:
2007 Bond Vecina - 93 points
2007 Diamond Creek Volcanic Hill - 93+ points
2007 Diamond Creek Red Rock Terrace - 93 points
2008 Jasper Hill Shiraz Georgia's Paddock - 93 points
2008 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles - 93 points
2006 Louis Jadot Chapelle-Chambertin - 93 points
2002 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon - 93 points
2009 Philippe Colin Chevalier-Montrachet - 93 points
2007 Quinta do Noval Porto Vintage - 94 points
2009 Weingut Robert Weil Kiedricher Gräfenberg Riesling Auslese - 93 points
2004 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut - 93 points
The biggest new finds for me were the tasty and savory Loire wines of Domaine de Bellivière; the standout Shiraz from Jasper Hill (one of the best Aussie Shirazes I've had in a few years; I see why W&S said their '08 "is a candidate for Australia's most elegant shiraz"); the floral, detailed Friulian wines of Edi Kante; the high level of Philippe Colin's two 2009 white Burgundies; and the elegance of Storybook Mountain's 2008 Zin. For my complete tasting notes, by producer, see below.
Flight 1 - Aveleda (2 notes)
White
2010 Aveleda Alvarinho
Portugal, Minho, Vinho Regional Minho
Very light yellow color; focused, tart grapefruit, lemon nose; tart grapefruit, lemon palate; medium finish 88+ points
Flight 2 - Bellivière (2 notes)
Flight 3 - Bernard Baudry (3 notes)
Flight 4 - Bollinger (2 notes)
Flight 5 - Bond (2 notes)
Red
2007 BOND Vecina
USA, California, Napa Valley
Dark red violet color; rich, red berry, ripe currant nose; tasty, ripe currant, tart currant, menthol palate; needs 7 years; medium-plus finish
Red
2007 BOND Pluribus
USA, California, Napa Valley
Dark red violet color; nice, lifted, cassis, menthol nose; tasty, complex, menthol, eucalyptus, cassis palate; needs 4-5 years; medium-plus finish
Flight 6 - Bouchard (2 notes)
Flight 7 - Boutari (3 notes)
White
2010 Boutari Moschofilero
Greece, Peloponnisos, Mantinia
Very light yellow color; floral, fresh citrus, tart orange nose; tasty, fresh, floral, dry palate; medium-plus finish 91+ points
Red
2009 Boutari Elios Peloponnisos
Greece, Peloponnisos
Medium dark red color; Cab Franc-like, tart currant, olive nose; juicy, light-medium bodied, tart currant, mineral palate; medium-plus finish
White
2009 Boutari Santorini
Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini
Light yellow color; appealing, lightly savory, tart pear nose; light tart pear, mineral palate; medium finish
Flight 8 - Brokenwood (2 notes)
Red
2009 Brokenwood Shiraz
Australia, New South Wales, Hunter Valley
Dark red violet color; creosote, roasted plum nose; creosote, graphite, tart roasted black fruit palate; medium-plus finish 90+ points
White
2006 Brokenwood Sémillon ILR Reserve
Australia, New South Wales, Hunter Valley
Straw yellow color; aromatic, witch hazel, tart peach nose; tight still, lanolin, tart peach, citrus palate; medium-plus finish
Flight 9 - Buil & Giné (2 notes)
Red
2007 Buil & Giné Montsant 17-XI
Spain, Catalunya, Tarragona, Montsant
Dark cherry red color; intriguing, tart berry, hibiscus nose; tart berry, hibiscus palate; medium-plus finish (blend of Grenache, Tempranillo and Carignan)
Flight 10 - Cantina Terlan (2 notes)
Flight 11 - Ceretto (2 notes)
Flight 12 - Concha y Toro (2 notes)
Flight 13 - Diamond Creek (3 notes)
Flight 14 - Elvio Cogno (2 notes)
Red
2005 Elvio Cogno Barolo Bricco Pernice
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Dark cherry red color with pale meniscus; appealing, dried berry nose; tight, tasty, dried berry, mineral palate; needs 7-plus years; medium-plus finish
Red
2007 Elvio Cogno Barolo Ravera
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Tar, dried berry nose; tasty, dried berry, tar palate; needs 5-plus years; medium-plus finish 91+ points
Flight 15 - Fleury (2 notes)
Flight 16 - Gerovassiliou (2 notes)
Flight 17 - Gramona (2 notes)
Flight 18 - Guigal (2 notes)
White
2009 E. Guigal Condrieu La Doriane
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Condrieu
Light yellow color; rich, floral, spicy, baked pear nose; oaky, baked pear, spice palate; needs 2-3 years; medium-plus finish
Red
2004 E. Guigal St. Joseph Vignes de L'Hospice
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph
Dark purple red violet color; rich, spicy, tart berry, roasted black fruit nose; tasty, oak, tart berry, roasted black fruit palate; medium-plus finish 91+ points
Flight 19 - Iron Horse (2 notes)
White - Sparkling
1997 Iron Horse Vineyards Joy!
USA, California, Sonoma County, Green Valley of Russian River Valley
Light lemon yellow color with few bubbles; yeasty, light, tart citrus nose; yeasty, light tart citrus palate; medium-plus finish 87+ points
Flight 20 - Jasper Hill (2 notes)
Flight 21 - Kante (2 notes)
White
N.V. Edi Kante Rex Apum Bianco Vino da Tavola
Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Vino da Tavola
Light yellow color; richly floral, lifted citrus nose; delicious, light, refreshing, floral, lifted citrus palate; medium finish 91+ points (3 years in barrel, 1 year in bottle)
White
2009 Edi Kante Malvasia
Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Carso
Very light yellow color; floral, lifted, tart pear, citrus nose; tasty, floral, tart pear, citrus palate; medium-plus finish (1 year in barrique, 1 year in bottle)
Flight 22 - Kilikanoon (2 notes)
Red
2008 Kilikanoon Shiraz M McLaren Vale
Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
Very dark red violet color; oak, ripe plum, berry nose; oak, ripe plum, berry palate; needs 3 years; medium-plus finish
Flight 23 - King Estate (1 note)
Flight 24 - La Castellada (2 notes)
White
2004 La Castellada Collio Sauvignon
Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Collio
Light golden yellow color; savory, grilled cheese, light pepper, mineral nose; savory, light pepper, tart citrus, mineral palate; medium-plus finish
Orange
2006 La Castellada Collio Ribolla Gialla
Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Collio
Light medium orange yellow color; intriguing, tart baked lemon, grapefruit ruind nose; tasty, orange wine, tart citrus, grapefruit rind, mineral palate; medium-plus finish
Flight 25 - Leflaive (2 notes)
Flight 26 - Le Macchiole (2 notes)
Red
2006 Le Macchiole Scrio Toscana IGT
Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
Medium dark red violet color; aromatic, tart berry, roasted plum nose; tasty, poised, tart berry, roasted plum palate; medium-plus finish 92+ points
Red
2007 Le Macchiole Paleo Rosso
Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
Dark red violet color; smoky, tart currant nose; tasty, tart currant, mineral palate; medium-plus finish 90+ points
Flight 27 - Loimer (2 notes)
White
2010 Loimer Grüner Veltliner
Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal
Light yellow color; spicy, tart yellow fruit nose; tart apple, light pepper, mineral palate; medium-plus finish
Flight 28 - López de Heredia (2 notes)
Red
2001 R. López de Heredia Rioja Reserva Viña Tondonia
Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
Medium dark cherry red color; nice, dried berry, black cherry nose; tasty, tart currant, tart berry, mineral palate; medium-plus finish (75% Tempranillo, 15% Garnacha, 5% Graciano, 5% Mazuelo)
White
1993 R. López de Heredia Rioja Blanco Reserva Viña Tondonia
Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
Light golden yellow color; rich, savory, mineral, baked apple nose; tasty, baked apple, mineral, savory palate; medium-plus finish 91+ points (90% Viura, 10% Malvasia)
Flight 29 - Louis Jadot (2 notes)
Red
2006 Louis Jadot Chapelle-Chambertin
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru
Medium dark cherry red color with pale meniscus; lovely, cherry, framboises, roses nose; tasty, cherry, framboises, roses palate; needs 5 years; medium-plus finish
Flight 30 - Moët & Chandon (1 note)
Flight 31 - Movia (2 notes)
Rosé - Sparkling
2004 Movia Puro Rose
Slovenia, Primorska, Goriška Brda
Cloudy, light peach pink color with few medium-sized bubbles; intriguing, salty strawberry, tart orange nose; tart orange, cream, tart peach, strawberry, mineral palate; medium-plus finish 90+ points
White
2006 Movia Veliko Bianco (Belo)
Slovenia, Primorska, Goriška Brda
Light medium yellow color; floral, poached pear, apple, Muscat nose; dry, tart pear palate with light tannins and grip; medium-plus finish
Flight 32 - Niepoort (2 notes)
Red
2008 Niepoort Douro Charme
Portugal, Douro
Medium cherry red color with pale meniscus; tart cherry, cranberry nose; soft, tart cherry, cranberry palate; medium finish
Flight 33 - Penfolds (2 notes)
Red
2008 Penfolds Shiraz RWT
Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley
Dark red violet color; rich, ripe plum, berry, vanilla palate; rich, ripe plum, berry, vanilla palate with sweet tannins; medium-plus finish 91+ points
Red
2007 Penfolds Shiraz St. Henri
Australia, South Australia
Very dark red violet color; roasted plum, baked berry nose; tight, baked berry, red berry palate; needs 4 years; medium-plus finish 90+ points
Flight 34 - Philippe Colin (2 notes)
White
2009 Philippe Colin Chevalier-Montrachet
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
Light yellow color; egg shell, white flower, mineral nose; tasty, poised, apple, mineral, pear palate; long finish
Flight 35 - Prüm (2 notes)
Flight 36 - Quinta do Noval (2 notes)
Flight 37 - Raul Pérez (2 notes)
Flight 38 - Robert Weil (2 notes)
Flight 39 - Roederer (2 notes)
White - Sparkling
2004 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut
France, Champagne
Light yellow color with tiny bubbles; light, yeasty, delicate, apple nose; tasty, poised, tart apple, tart pear palate; delicious now but will benefit from aging as well; medium-plus finish (55% Pinot Noir, 45% Chardonnay)
Flight 40 - Santadi (2 notes)
Flight 41 - Sastre (3 notes)
Flight 42 - Schloss Gobelsburg (2 notes)
Flight 43 - Storybook (2 notes)
Flight 44 - Tahbilk (1 note)
White
2010 Tahbilk Marsanne
Australia, Victoria, Central Victoria, Nagambie Lakes
Tart peach, apple nose; tart peach, apple palate; medium finish
Flight 45 - Tardieu-Laurent (3 notes)
Flight 46 - Tenimenti Angelini (2 notes)
Red
2004 Val di Suga Brunello di Montalcino
Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
Dark cherry red color; rich, dried berry, spice, oak nose; dried berry, spice palate; needs 5 years; medium-plus finish
Flight 47 - Tselepos (3 notes)
Red
2007 Tselepos Nemea
Greece, Peloponnisos, Nemea
Dark cherry red color; focused, tart red berry, cherry nose; tasty, tart red fruit, cassis palate with sweet tannins; approachable now but could use 2 years of age; medium-plus finish
White
2010 Tselepos Moschofilero Mantinia
Greece, Peloponnisos, Mantinia
Very light yellow color; nice light peach, pear, floral nose; tasty, poised, tart peach, floral palate; medium-plus finish 90+ points
Flight 48 - Vazquez (2 notes)
Flight 49 - Von Schubert (2 notes)