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90 Points

Thursday, May 4, 2023 - TWS North London - Volcanic Wines (Must & Lees, N1): This doesn't want to be your friend: leathery, developed nose. Spiced, punchy dark fruit, old leather, ash, maybe bovril or marmite? Overall it's a really savoury profile. The tannins are smooth, it's broad on the palate with a long, bitter finish. There will be dishes which work perfectly with this but right now they're not springing to mind - I found this distinctive and enjoyable, but not for every day...

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