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86 Points

Monday, February 6, 2017 - Quite deep and dark yet still noticeably translucent pomegranate color. Surprisingly dry and savory nose with very little in the way of fruit, showing mainly dusty earth, smoke and some vague truffle tones. The wine is full-bodied, rich and somewhat warm on the palate with quite straightforward flavors of sweet black cherries, savory wood spice, some earthy tones, a little bit of tar, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a touch of truffle. The structure relies mainly on the still very rough and grainy tannins, as the medium acidity feels rather low for a Nebbiolo. The finish is quite noticeably rough and grippy with long and somewhat austere flavors of tannic bitterness, stony minerality, some sanguine meaty tones, a little bit of sour cherry and a hint of savory wood.

A relatively uninteresting Barolo. The fruit department feels slightly underplayed in comparison to the more savory elements and the acidity feels somewhat inadequate in relation to the body. The tannins really could use some aging to achieve some sense of resolution, but I'm not entirely convinced this vintage is really built for the long haul. Perhaps the wine could benefit from another 3-5 more years, but this isn't going to be a classic Barolo aging for decades. The only commendable thing here is that the wine feels more traditional than modernist in style, which is a welcome change in Fontanafredda wines.

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