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93 Points

Saturday, December 30, 2023 - Decanted one hour before service. In the glass, medium-pale, slightly cloudy yellow. On the nose, petrol funk, lemon, and smoke. On the palate, crisp citric acidity on the attack, opening into a smoother, more unctuous mix of lemon and smoky oak - not elements that evoke an unctuous mouthfeel, I know, but here we are. The finish tightens up with more acidity and what feels like some unresolved tannins - bracing, but appealing.

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