Community Tasting Note

JohnMcIlwain Likes this wine:

Saturday, February 10, 2024 - Given that I live less than a mile from the ocean, I really ought to drink more Muscadet, especially considering how much I’ve cellared over the years (a lot). And with that in mind and a chance encounter with some beautiful looking halibut cheeks at the fish market, I pulled a bottle of Luneau-Papin 2002 L d’Or from the wine fridge. And I’ll be goddamned, this is a beauty! Forsythia yellow/just hinting at gold robe. Upon opening the nose is pretty, dynamic, and pure—no, is-it-corked-or-old-Loire here, thank you very much. Aromas of wet stone, just barely ripe orchard fruit, and preserved lemon on the nose, with just a whisper of petrol, but more sweet summer lawn clipping and lawn mower gas than Formula 1. The palate shows nervous tension and is just uncoiling with salted pear, bits of iodine and Meyer lemon flavors vying with notes of quinine and bee pollen. This is ripe and nearly round (for Muscadet) but there’s a satisfying cut and precision that moderates the ripeness, as if gaveling the yellow fruit to order. Splendid with pan-roasted halibut cheeks with brown butter and capers, and carrot purée with honey, and Cara Cara juice, as well a charred broccolini with lemon and anchovy. But if you have a chicken needing roasting this will perform with élan at the very least. (Maybe highlight the bird with a piquant salsa verde.) Fine, fine bottle purchased as a young(er) wine professional quite a few years ago. Thanks David Lillie and perhaps Lyle Fass(?). Age your Muscadet, friends!

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