chambolle
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NV Egly-Ouriet Champagne Premier Cru Les Vignes de Vrigny
2/17/2024 - chambolle wrote:
This is the third bottle from a six bottle purchase; and somewhat of a disappointment. 9/2021 disgorgement. At best the Vignes de Vrigny is a favorite around my house. It’s a juicy, opulently fruity, straight ahead pinot meunier champagne that’s as gulpable as good beaujolais. The wine in this lot has a faintly peachy hue, nice fine mousse, fresh fruit nose, stone fruit on the palate and a bright, briskly acidic finish. Great with gougères, a super good friend of moules et frites.
This bottle seems slightly tired. The bubbles are lively, but the color is a bit deeper peach than I like to see, and the palate follows suit — it lacks drive. Hopefully this is just a case of bottle variation and not an indication the wine has already gone over the cliff; which would certainly be unusual just over two years after disgorgement.
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2009 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
2/17/2024 - chambolle wrote:
My impression is consistent with others posted here: Opened before leaving home for restaurant meal, to screen for TCA or other flaws. Deep, youthful bright color. Mute and dull nose; thin and marred by coarse tannins on palate. I grabbed a younger bottle of Volnay to take along as a backup, just in case this failed to improve.
After about an hour’s aeration in Zalto Burgundy glasses, it’s an entirely different wine. Heady, effusive nose of blueberries and raspberries; the palate impression is wild fruit, huckleberries perhaps? Plenty of ripe fruit still with ample fine grained tannin at the back end. It remains a bit disjointed like a gangly adolescent — 15 years from the vintage this still has at least another five years to go before a plateau of reasonable maturity. Overall, it’s true to form: a baby Vogue Musigny.
When I bought six of these some years back for about $100 a cork, the price seemed like a bit of a stretch. Would I pay around $400 a bottle or more for the wine today? No; although it seems people do.
Addendum: About a quarter of this bottle sat in a cool dark spot outdoors for five days. Tasted tonight, it’s pretty much where it was on the day it was uncorked. The nose is a bit plummier, the fruit a bit darker toned, the tannins slightly more pronounced… but having evolved so little in five days, I’d say this wine has years to go in bottle before it will fully bloom.
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NV Egly-Ouriet Champagne Les Prémices
6/19/2023 - chambolle wrote:
I’ve long been a fan of Egly-Ouriet and count a number of Egly bottlings among my favorites; including the Rosé, ‘Vieillissement Prolongé and the pinot meunier cuvée ‘Les Vignes de Vrigny.’ This ‘Les Premices’ is a new ‘entry level’ bubbly that is disgorged after 36 months on the lees, composed of more or less equal parts of pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot meunier.
I wish I could say I like the wine more than I do. However, at least on this occasion, I’m not impressed. Granted, this is the July 2022 disgorgement. Perhaps it just needs time. At present, everything about the wine is somewhat disjointed, coarse and clunky. The nose is earthy, overtly yeasty, not at all refined. The palate is chunky, chewy, a bit bitter, without real depth of fruit. It finishes short. To be honest, it’s reminiscent of Spanish cava more than top notch champagne from a cult producer like Egly-Ouriet.
Remaining bottles will be tucked away to be retasted in coming years. Time might transform this champagne; but I’m not seeing the raw material here. At $60 to $70 a bottle at retail in the U.S., there are many alternatives among the expanding array of grower champagnes available that offer much greater quality, finesse and pleasure.
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