Loire in the afternoon with two Vouvray from 1947. (NYC): Our host opened this up on a whim just to see if there was anything there as the ullage was horrible. Literally 35% of the wine was missing and when the screwpull was applied, the cork shot down the neck into the wine. Given that, the showing was simply astounding and completely unexpected. While a deep tawny color, not so dissimilar to how Foreau's '90 Reserve and Goutte D'Or show these days, though those are just a little brighter with more copper color to them, the wine showed plenty of life on the palate with an aged Vouvray profile of dried apricots, earl grey tea, shoe polish, warm brown bakers spices and charred pineapple. It shows plenty of sweetness and more depth than the Chenet, though while there's adequate acidity, it does come off as a little soft. I would expect an intact bottle to show fresher fruit and a more vibrant profile, but this bottle has such a wonderful warmth and comforting resonance to it. As to the designation Bonnet Rouge, our host said it's the name of a parcel within the vineyard. Quite a way to finish a wonderful afternoon. A-/A.
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