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Full Pull

  • By Paul Zitarelli
    Full Pull Vigna del Lauro, 8/2/2017, (See more on Full Pull...)

    (Vigna del Lauro Friuli Isonzo Cabernet Franc) Hello friends. When you close your eyes and imagine an Italian adventure, you may be completely consumed by the thought of scissor-cut Neapolitan pizza, Sicilian marsala-braised dishes, and the golden hills of Tuscany. You might think of Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck gallivanting through Rome on a scooter, or scenes of Romeo and Juliet in fair Verona. You probably remember Amarone, Valpolicella, Chianti, Barolo, and Barbaresco. But, what you’re missing in the grand image of Italy is in the far upper rightmost corner—the terraced, breezy wine country that encompases the borderlands of Northeastern Italy, Friuli. This mountainous region boasts equal distance from the Alps to the north and the Adriatic Sea to the south, combining Italian style with Austrian and Slovenian sensibility. The results are wildly interesting wines that are rich in Italian history at a price point that implies this region is still a treasure, still somewhat unknown. Vigna del Lauro is a collection of vineyards in the heart of San Floriano del Collio (location here), which is just about as far east as you can get in Italy. The estate fluctuates between rich, green forest, and steep, southern-exposed vines. Like most of Friuli, they mostly produce high acid, wickedly bright white wines, but their red wines should not be missed. Today, we’re offering one of each for a small window view into the region and what it’s capable of. We originally tasted this wine back in the spring, when there was barely any left in Seattle, and our team unanimously adored both the wine and its ridiculous price. It remains one of the finest value reds we’ve tasted in 2017. We liked it so much, in fact, that we asked the importer to bring in a special shipment specifically for Full Pull. That means our list has access to this wine before anyone else, and once we’ve had our take, it will be released to the rest of the city. Cabernet Franc is planted liberally throughout Friuli, and this bottling is sourced from a site just south of Collio in Friuli Isonzo DOC. Much of the region is warm and temperate, with influences from the sea and mountains. The intersection of this warmer climate with cool breezes of the Adriatic and the Alps creates an equally elegant and refreshing version Cab Franc. With a listed alcohol of 12.5%, this Cab Franc is a lighter, leaner version than its Washington counterparts; much more like a Loire Valley ringer. It pours into the glass purple-tinged ruby and opens with cherry, tart red currant, blackberry, bundled dried herbs, and graphite. On the palate, this wine is layered, with juicy fruit cut through by high-toned, citrusy acidity. It has soft tannins that melt on the tongue, and a finish that straddles the balance of acid and fruit. It’s a year-round red that could be enjoyed on a hot day with a slight chill, or at a family dinner on any chilly night.

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