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Terry Theise Estate Selections

  • By Terry Theise
    2012 German Catalog, 6/1/2012, (See more on Terry Theise Estate Selections...)

    (Gysler Weinheimer Riesling Trocken "S") ($27.00) This is the best dry wine Alex has made, and though it’s demanding, it’s a masterly piece of work. From 30-ish year old vines in the (red soil) Hölle, it was never fined, and sat on its gross lees for ten months, when it received its only filtration at bottling. It’s a cuvée of three lots, only one of which was de-assed (by double-salt in must, the hardest and best way). The wine is manly, like Alsace wine used to always be; in fact it made me think of Schöenenburg; blown-out candle, quince, hints of Chignin and Furmint; oddly gentle due to malo; a lot of soul and inference here, as if it were part Jurassien; quite an achievement, and a new level of depth and intrigue, a meditative, fascinating wine. +

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