2015 Trius Cabernet Franc

Community Tasting Notes (1) Avg Score: 87 points

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  2/24/2017 - mjwstickings Likes this wine: 87 Points

  With aromas of blackberry and pine forest leaping right out of the bottle, here's a solid, "correct" Niagara Cab Franc that shows off in pretty much unadulterated form (seven months in oak) just what the varietal has to offer: dark berries but also raspberry and raspberry leaf, with additional earthy, foresty/herbal, and black pepper spicy notes (if not much of the usual tobacco); sufficient acidity to cut through the heaviness; solid structure but not enough to make it unapproachable in its youth; and a certain rustic wildness. And it leaves me with two prevailing thoughts: 1) Cab Franc really is one of the red varietals Niagara does well. Instead of trying to be so commercially broad, Niagara winemakers should stick to more suitable varietals and blends (Bordeaux-style reds, Pinot Noir). 2) Cab Franc really isn't a varietal that shines on its own. Even higher-end expressions tend to bump up against a relatively low ceiling, and this one thins out on the palate and loses the fruit. Certainly it holds its own in the Loire, but for the most part it works better elsewhere as a supporting player in blends, where its earthy-spicy character can add a great deal of complexity to the mix. Still, there's no denying that this is very pleasant, and particularly food-friendly, and a fine single-varietal expression.

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