1985 August Kesseler Assmannshäuser Höllenberg Spätburgunder

Community Tasting Notes (3) Avg Score: 83 points

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  9/30/2023 - glimmervoid wrote:

  Reddit wine gathering for German wine (Brohltal, Germany): ???% ABV in a 700ml bottle.
  
  The winery of August Kesseler was founded in 1924. Back then, mostly bulk wine was produced and the vineyard area was just over six acres.
  
  August took over the winery at 19 years of age in 1977, after the untimely early death of his parents. He gradually enlarged and improved the family business, transforming it into one of the best Pinot Noir producers in the wine industry, let alone the country. From 1979 to 1983, he studied Oenology at the University of Geisenheim. Until the early 1990s, he devoted himself exclusively to Pinot Noir, although the winery also makes Riesling. Even today, he is considered a red wine icon and a flagbearer in Germany, a pioneer who helped German Pinot Noir achieve international acclaim. He was one of the first in the Rheingau to use barrique casks in the mid-1980s.
  
  Today, the winery cultivates 82 acres of vines in the best locations of the Rheingau, but of course, this is the Assmannshäuser Höllenberg, where he owns partially-ungrafted old Spätburgunder vines.
  
  There was no ABV on the label because at the time, alcohol content was probably not yet required to be printed on the label. It was also rather curious that the wine was in a 700ml bottle. The cork is a work of art, such intricate imagery on the cork gives any uninitiated drinker a clue that this is a producer that takes pride in their own winery and brand.
  This was a 1985 wine, so August Kesseler had been in charge for less than 10 years. Considering that he is to Rheingau what Bernard Huber is to Baden, and the prices that his bottles command, expectations were high.
  
  The cork was beautiful, absolutely stunning and ornate with a lovely intricate design. It indicates that the winemaker respects his own wine.
  
  This wine was still singing, and it was in top form. The colour betrayed very little, it had such small rim variation, not watery at all with only a slightly orange tinge on the rim. It barely gave away the fact that this was over 30 years old.
  
  The tertiary nose of mushroom, forest floor and pine cones, was stunning. It was simply majestic – one of the best Pinot Noir bouquets I have ever experienced, regardless of style or age. I could have nosed this wine all day long. First, the dried potpourri, dried dusty sous bois notes made an entrance. Over time, there was even an orange peel aroma joining the party, but in a completely different environment from that of the younger wines. Eventually, the chanterelle mushroom funk, again in a pleasant way, showed up.
  
  It was hard to beat that nose, and my first sip was a confused amalgamation of funky notes, but after some swirling, I tried it again, and on the palate, what was truly astonishing was that I still felt the tannins. Not just these elegant, fine-grained tannins, but also a hit of fruit. This was bonkers. I wasn’t sure if I had been drinking too much up to this point, but I tried it again and it was most certainly unmistakable.
  On the attack, I could detect fresh strawberries, not very intense, but it was definitely there. I took another sip and I got the same. The mid palate was more generous than I expected it to be, I get kalamata olive notes that were tossed into my ‘salad of tertiary characters’. And the finish actually lingered! It felt like a low alcohol wine - my guess is 12.0% ABV which I will verify when I get the chance - that relied on those tannins and acidity to hold up its structure to very positive results. Fantastic nose, no weakness on the attack or mid palate, rounded mouthfeel with a pleasant warmth at the end, a wine that was all about integration and softness.
  
  It probably was a wine ahead of its time (at the time in 1985), that shone the light for future generations of German Pinot Noir producers to follow. This is not a purring Rolls Royce like the Chat Sauvage, but a charming, elegant vintage car with a lower horsepower engine. It surprises you in a different way - in that it doesn’t just sputter along and move from point A to point B, but gives you an enchanting ride along the way that you feel privileged to experience. Again, completely different from the previous wine from 1990, a wine that is not deep and heavy, but aroma-driven, balanced, mild, and persistent.
  
  To me, this is perfection in Pinot Noir. This supersedes the ‘this wine has the potential to be great if you give it time’ comment that many of us give to so many wines. I have never had something so life changing and highly doubt that I would ever have the chance to do so for some time.
  
  Wine aside, I also heard many fantastic things about August Kesseler being a great guy from people from all parts of the wine industry. At wine shows he is always a friendly warm figure with so much patience, explaining his wines to both retail customers and trade professionals with enthusiasm and aplomb. I have not met him myself but would definitely love to pay my respects when I have the chance to visit Assmannshausen or happen to be at a wine show where they are presenting.

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  8/31/2021 - Gerhard3 wrote:

  August Kesseler, Assmannshäuser Höllenberg, Spätburgunder trocken 1985. Light colour, but not too brownish. Earthy, slightly smoky and with some wood on the nose. Strawberry scent in the background, not stewed but rather fresh. Low volume with moderate tannin-structure, fine grained, lively and harmonious acidity. Holds up in its own way. I liked it.

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  8/20/2008 - Gerhard3 wrote: 83 Points

  In der Nase Oliven, Holz und leicht rauchige Noten. Im Mund schlankes bis mittleres Volumen, Wald und etwas Beeren, mittlere Säure aber astringierender Ausklang. Leider hat hier ganz offensichtlich das Holz die Frucht überlebt. Offen, bei Kerstin. (83/100)

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