2005 Domaine Jean-Louis Tribouley Côtes Catalanes Orchis

Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  9/20/2007, (See more on Garagiste...)

  (ORCHIS) UPDATE: One of the pervasive trends in France right now is the insistence that oxidized wines are the true representation of terroir and that the purity of “regular” wines are in some way heretic. This is a major movement in France right now (sort of the Jack Kerouac of wine trends) and I’m not sure the American palate is ready for this. For whites, sherried aromatics and bacterial streaks throughout the wine (similar to a high school biology experiment) are the norm and the wines are so fragile (no sulpher or so little the wine is not stabilized) that a small amount of fizz is expected upon opening - sort of a Moscato level of fizz. A very large percentage of the young winemakers from cutting-edge regions are making wine in this style and they are all over Paris and the insider haunts throughout France. To know French wine right now, one must delve into this movement as it is one of the most controversial but potentially important changes in French winemaking in many years. A move to a completely natural, organic philosophy is admirable but when it comes with a militant attitude about what is right or wrong, then those that subscribe to this style have overstepped the bounds they have been trying so hard to break down. Watch for more of these wines to emerge on the American stage in the coming years but I am not convinced they will be as accepted on our side of the pond as they are in Europe. If you do experiment with them, give them more oxygen than you would believe - up to two hours for the whites as some of the sherried elements will blow off. A few notes on observations in Europe so far... Best wine I’ve tried thus far: 2002 Creux d'Enfer I believe this is the best wine I’ve had this year. It was so incredible I almost cried (I’m serious) and I had already tasted 50 wines this day, all that were top-tier and this put them to shame – too bad only 6 bottles were released for public consumption – thanks T! I’ve had a barrel sample of 2005 La Tache and Romanee Conti and I would rather have this – enough said. Strangest wine I’ve tread this far: 2006 Sebastian Riffault Sancerre “Akmenine” We offered this earlier in the year and while I am a huge supporter of Riffault this wine is so controversial it really should be tasted by everyone just for the experience (we don’t have any left but I believe a few stores in the NY metro area have it). The style is a combination of Alsatian VT, Vouvray demi-sec and an unctuous Puligny (akin to Batard-Montrachet). When asked why he didn’t make what most people would characterize as “Sancerre”, his response was simple: “the grapes didn’t feel like it”. One of France’s most inspiring and important new producers and one that the French press cannot get enough of. Worst wine I’ve tried thus far: 2004 Isa Highly touted and not even worthy of the drain it was washed down. I actually tried two bottles as I couldn’t believe the wine was that poor. Save your pennies when this is released later this year to what I‘m sure will be huge acclaim. If you could mass-produce oak slathered watery grape juice from purple colored sugar syrup, you would be close....a nasty experience. More to come... - Jon Rimmerman ********************************* Orchis Dear Friends, Here’s a red wine wine that I’ve been thinking about on the last few weeks, as much for the price as for the quality. It is one of the strongest overall wines I’ve tasted and one of the best red wines for sure. I received this wine in the mail from the winery (after a protracted run-down with the French postal service on a Saturday morning where I was literally running down Blvd Latour-Moubourg in my bath robe...an ungainly site, I’m sure) and let it sit for several days before I uncorked it. I was told this was a major wine of the 2005 vintage and it actually lived up to its expectations (and kept improving over several days). If you are looking for Priorat meets Mon Aieul jr for a great price, this is your wine. From 90 yr old Grenache vines (more akin to old-vine Garnacha) mixed with a filed blend of other varietals found in the nearby vineyard, this wine will make many stand at attention. Gorgeous extract, clarity and precision mixed with incredible levels of minerality, soil, red and dark fruits make this wine a remarkable achievement at any price...but at this price it’s a bargain that needs to be in the hands of those that appreciate the finest wines from this region and those that are just beginning to discover the virtues of the Roussillon. The closest comparison I can make to this wine is a junior version of a mid-1990s Clos Mogador meets 2001 CdP. I used the Mon Aieul example above because that’s the first thing that came to mind as a comparison. This will be a top-tier house wine choice for many of you and I cannot recommend it highly enough – bravo to Jean-Louis Tribouley. VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED - one of the top red wines of the trip so far... 2005 Jean-Louis Tribouley “Orchis” Cotes du Catalanes (this is not the Les Bacs, Copines, L’Alba or other – this is the actual Orchis) Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA SOFR9993