2004 August Cellars Marechal Foch Meadows

Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  3/11/2008, (See more on Garagiste...)

  (MARECHAL FOCH August Cellars) Marechal Foch Dear Friends, Do you want to try something really crazy? How about this? August Cellars is the home base of one of the oldest fruit/grape growing families in Oregon. August and Anna Schaad came to this area around Newberg circa 1900 (from southern Germany) and have put down roots ever since (no pun intended). They have been farming land in this area for over a century and the current vine parcel for over 70. They seek no attention, shy from the spotlight and are only interested in one thing - value for your dollar. The present owners are the 4th generation of the Schaad family and they know the soil structure, climate and composition of Oregon as well as anyone. The wines are not submitted to Parker, they are just submitted for your dining enjoyment. The Schaad’s have eschewed technology and their style is decidedly old-school. As a broad statement, these are throw-back wines. August Cellars produces the garage project we offer below from an heirloom varietal mostly forgotten and rarely observed in this country - Marechal Foch (named after a French army hero that helped in the Great War armistice). The Marechal Foch below reminds me of a 1975 or 1978 Napa Cabernet. Nothing has been polished or softened by expensive oak or technology. This is a serious red wine with the old-style Napa shrill acid/extract character that was so popular in many of the now legendary wines of the 1975 and 1978 vintage (similar to the 1975 Mayacamus or 1978 Shafer). The oak is also old-school and this deep-toned, intense (bur still medium bodied) wine retains a nooks and crannies aspect where surprises emerge after each hour of air. Many compare Marechal Foch to Syrah or even Zinfandel but, in the hands of August Cellars, it is more like 1978 Montelena Cabernet without the gritty tannin. To fully enjoy this wine, it needs at least 2-3 hours of air to allow the oxygen to soften the acids. In the winery’s words: “This varietal of the same name is the perfect wine to use as a foundation of a cellar. A big wine that pairs well with steak or dark chocolate, it is unfined and unfiltered. As it ages, it will develop a heavy sediment layer. Enjoy it now or reap the rewards of years of graceful aging”. While I wouldn’t go to the “foundation of a cellar” point (that’s a bit crazy), this wine does represent a by-gone era of wine production that will find a place in many of our hearts, now and over the next decade. Is it as good as 1974 Heitz Martha’s? Not a chance but it’s better than 1967 Leoville Las Cases. For more on Marechal Foch, please see: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marechal_Foch (this would be one of the “inky” styles referred to in the article) ONE SHIPMENT ONLY at this price directly from the winery cellar with perfect provenance EDUCATIONAL OPPORTUNITY - everyone should give this a try (even if you pour it down the drain, the investment is reasonable enough to encourage experimentation and the wine has a chance to age for a long time): 2004 August Cellars Marechal Foch “Meadow’s Vineyard” Please give us your maximum number up to 12/person and we will allocate accordingly Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA OR7999