Rich golden, autolytic. Fantastic depth of flavour with yeast, biscuit there. Although the bubbles dissipated fairly quickly it was still sparkling after a couple of hours and just got better and better over the evening with ever richer aroma and flavor coming through
Appreciable pressure under the cork, but no visible bubbles in the glass. Quite a dumb nose. On sniffing, a faint core of rich gold fruit, but little else. The taste is a different matter. The mousse is soft but mouthfilling, rather than insistent. Good acidity remains; a quite delicious flavour of apple pie, both the filling of cooked Bramleys, and the buttery pastry, predominates. Overall, the palate is at the perfect point between youth and maturity - orchard fruits on the one hand, nutty and biscuity aromas on the other. It is quite delicious, but this wine is rather like a symphony played pianissimo. Perhaps it's just a little too long since disgorgement (bearing in mind late-disgorged champagnes have a much reduced lifespan compared to their normally-treated counterparts), or maybe this bottle is just at an introverted stage. Either way, it's still a privilege to be able to try something so rare, and I am tempted to buy two or three more bottles to discover the answer. [Berry Bros, £50, disgorged 10 October 2005]
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