2003 Antica Cantina S. Amico Lacrima di Morro d'Alba Venere Oro

RJonWine.com

• By Richard Jennings
  3/4/2010, (See more on RJonWine.com...) 89 points

  (Antica Cantina S. Amico Lacrima di Morro d'Alba Venere Oro) Dark red violet color; chocolate, berry, pruney nose; chocolate, black fruit, plum, berry palate; medium finish

Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  11/20/2009, (See more on Garagiste...)

  (VENERE ORO S. Amico Lacrima) Lacrima Dear Friends, In ancient lore, it was said that Lacrima could make the must sullen and miserable shed a tear of joy. Even the grape itself wept during the harvest with a teardrop (a slight oozing of juice) that fell from the swollen, thin skins. Unlike more tannic examples, the floral and textural seduction of Lacrima is tough to ignore and the teardrop name is easier to understand once you've passed one of the better examples of this forgotten varietal before your lips. Which brings us to today's wine. This is a special bottling from one of our favorite wineries in Italy, Antica Cantina S. Amico. Like some of the Jura and Savoie examples we are known for (Belluard et al), this winery is a core producer for us that represents exactly why we set out everyday to make a difference. In a sea of commercial and manipulated fermented fruit water masquerading as "wine", Antica Cantina S. Amico reminds us of the most basic trio of vinous truths: harmony, purity and reflection. From one of the last traditional strongholds of Lacrima in the Marche, this is a special bottling that is not typically available in the US. Those of you weaned on the Perbacco bottling from this producer would be well-advised to give this more than a passing glance. In comparison, this is their reserve wine and at S. Amico that doesn't mean oak or extract - it means older vines and even more transparent textural sap that is bursting with red fruit that dances and rolls off the tongue. If you are interested in wine that tastes of its place, I mean a specific acre (not a region), this wine shows us the way home. Unlike most of Europe, 2003 was a great vintage for this sub-region of the Marche. Lacrima, as opposed to south like Cabernet, requires a good dose of sunshine to ripen but it is picked relatively early (a tough combination to get just right). The influence of the Adriatic in 2003 kept the night temperatures much cooler than in most areas of torrid Europe and the intense heating degree days led to a wonderful result that doesn't happen every year for this varietal - thus, a Venere Oro bottling was born. With a sense of innocence lost on most of the wine world, this natural wine is haunting in its display of olfactory stimulation (a hallmark of Lacrima but Venere Oro is among the most effusive). A gorgeous wine with the scent of violets, rose and lavender that fill the space around the glass - the red fruit has the signature, delicate texture of Pinot Noir meets artisanal St. Joseph with a result that is shocking to say the least. This wine is like mixing Volnay with Dard et Ribo and covering the concoction with a satiny core of mineral, earth and the above mentioned sense of seduction...and bottling it as one of Europe's most treasured bargain entrants (don't tell S. Amico this is considered a bargain wine in the US - to them it's very expensive). When I think that a bottle of generic Bourgogne costs about the same as the Venere Oro, it puts into perspective how lost in time this winery is - time they are in no hurry to advance. VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED as a one of a kind, low-alcohol example that keeps me going down the uncharted path of discovery. EXTREMELY LIMITED This parcel has perfect provenance and is set to arrive in a week or two: 2003 Antica Cantina S. Amico Lacrima di Morro d'Alba "Venere Oro" Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Italy7491