2007 Robert Karcher Sylvaner Harth

Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  12/11/2008, (See more on Garagiste...)

  (SYLVANER KARCHER) 2007 Alsace Dear Friends, As long as we're talking about wine of terroir, what about this? Karcher's house wine? It's always an indication when a winemaker saves 10 cases of something for their own use (they could take anything, it's other own wine) - in 2007, Robert Karcher (the previously profiled mini-master of Colmar) chose this - his 2007 Sylvaner. When I tasted this wine over the summer, I asked for a few additional bottles to take on the road as it was the perfect wine I'm always looking for - inexpensive, of its place and cleansing in the way the finest beverages of sifted stone often are. He said no. I repeated my request, that it wasn't for 2 cases, just a few bottles to have in the car. He said no. Not one to overstay my welcome, I agreed with the little voice in my head that told me not to push it. After Karcher received our first order for the 2007 Riesling (another of his favorite wines), he politely asked if I would now like some 2007 Sylvaner. Such is the way the wine world operates. It's a constant juggling of cultures, personalities, ego and decorum but in the end, it is usually worth it. As previously told, Robert Karcher is one of the grand insider houses in Alsace - most of their wine ends up on rival winemaker tables and in local restaurants. Karcher is considered a 10 out of 10 on the extreme price/value scale and (while he is often admired) his rivals rarely follow his low-price lead. Karcher's 2007's in general are incredible for what they are - all of them (I drank every wine in the portfolio during my initial tasting, I did not spit any of them - if that is any indication). His Sylvaner is such a good deal, it renders many other examples in the Harth as an afterthought (and others know it). A soaring nose of citrus, flowers and soil great the taster with a taut, truly gorgeous display of laugh-out loud mineral-tone and citric fruit in an elegant but superbly balanced framework - a feminine work of clarity that keeps drawing you back again and again with its low alcohol (I believe it is 11.5%) and freshness. This $9.99 dry white wine is one of the finest in the region - not just one of the finest under $10 wines in the region (this wine sells for $5-6 in Colmar - insane!). Those of you that enjoy the best Apremont VV bottlings would thoroughly enjoy this as well. Karcher: The budget-terroirists delight. This parcel is directly from the source with perfect provenance (I have to limit this to 6/person because Karcher would not part with enough to satisfy everyone and his double "no" above was evidence that asking twice would only dig a deeper hole). VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED 2007 Robert Karcher Sylvaner "Harth" STRICT LIMIT 6/person (I would be hard pressed to find a qualitative equal at this price - I have not found a Sylvaner with this level of fine detail - it will also age for 4-6 years at the minimum) ...we also have a VERY small amount of what is considered to be Karcher's best wine, the often Gold Medaled Pinot Gris "Harth" - in 2007 it is a bizarre representation of price/quality. it is less alcoholic than most and has far more extract/acid/balance than any other Pinot Gris I've tasted in the vintage under $25 - it is an absolutely stunning effort that has the depth and power of a top example without the heaviness or alcohol - it is like a dollop of lemon curd buffered by grape sap and stone. I tasted this with the sommelier of one of the finest fish restaurants in Strasbourg and he was so taken aback by the price/quality that he drove both of us to Karcher's winery (30 miles away) and we stood out in the rain until they let us in to buy some (for his personal cellar only - Karcher wouldn't sell him any for the restaurant because he remembered a poor meal there almost ten years ago!): 2007 Robert Karcher Pinot Gris "Harth" EXTREMELY LIMITED (not sure what to compare this to for a potential Gold Medal example that should score well above the "outstanding" threshold for most of you? If any of you have the 2006 in your cellar, you should try that now for reference - it's a very good to excellent bottle but it's not the classic 2007, which should have a very long life - Karcher's prices remind me of why I still love this hobby) Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Als8550 Als8560