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Garagiste

  • By Jon Rimmerman
    3/2/2009, (See more on Garagiste...)

    (VON SIMMERN Hatt Nuss Kabinett) 2007 Germany Dear Friends, For a family entity that's been in production since 1450 (give or take a decade), Von Simmern rarely gets noticed in the US (despite their eye-popping acclaim for TBA and BA). Without a major national presence, most of their wine goes to the same collectors every year and very little is left-over for new enthusiasts. This has never bothered the winery and they are content to offer most of their wines to a European clientele and to German restaurants that keep them at the forefront. Whether good or bad, the current economic climate has many of their normal outlets hesitant to take their allocation (or out of business altogether) and that left an enticing parcel of 2007s for us at a terrific price. This estate has been gaining over the past ten years and they've now returned to the glory form of the early 1970s. Their 2007 stable is the finest overall vintage at this estate since 1971. As my colleague said when tasting the 2007 Hattenheimer Nussbrunnen Kabinett "This wine is just about perfect". You can throw darts below - all will make you giggle with enthusiasm and all are examples I could drink on any occasion. In addition, all are priced about the same as in Europe or less (if we run out, there's a small parcel of the Hattenheimer Kabinett at the low price on the East Coast as well). ONE SHIPMENT ONLY at this price with perfect provenance: 2007 Von Simmern Hattenheimer Nussbrunnen Kabinett See above comment - the poster child for 2007 Rheingau Kabinett? This price is almost a laugh (this is not the trocken). Compare at $20+. 2007 Von Simmern Erbacher Marcobrunn Kabinett See above comment and add "if it was good enough for Thomas Jefferson, it's good enough for us". Von Simmern has been reaping the reward of this most historic vineyard for over 500 years and the 2007 is another in a long line of fascinating examples that sell for a paltry sum. For under $20, this is one of the world's more ageworthy renditions of Kabinett and it would be interesting to tuck this away in the cellar for a decade or more. This wine is normally very expensive in the US so take note ($25-$30 or more is the norm). 2007 Von Simmern Hattenheimer Mannberg Spatlese Erstes Gewachs (first growth) This "first growth" has been farmed by Von Simmern mince the mid 1400's and the current 2007 example demonstrates a particular and masculine Rheingau expression of dry Riesling in all its splendor. Brooding, tactile and packed with crushed rock, citrus peel and hints of clove, the 2007 is very long and precise through the back-end - the pure flavors leave a lasting white-wash of powerful Riesling and fresh acidity on the palate for several minutes. Von Simmern has become known for their dry wine and even Claude Kolm has singled them out "the dry wines here are remarkable and most worthy of your attention. - Issue 122, 2007 in Germany". If you are into the best examples of the Wachau or even grand cru Alsatian Riesling from Colmar south, you will be very pleased to have this in your collection. Outstanding (normally priced around $45-60). Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Germ6410 Germ6420 Germ6430

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